| Author | Message | ||
     Mcrbuelligan |
At the moment I am using H/D Syn3, though after reading a few reports I am going / wanting to change to Amsoil on my next oil drop, which oil from Amsoil would you put in your 1125 motor ? | ||
| D_adams |
20w50 Been using it since the 1st oil change I think. I'm at a little over 25k now. Usually gets me 2 changes a year but I'm sure it could go longer than the 6200 mile interval the book calls for. Just did a change about a week ago, oil was only light brown after a little over 6500 miles. Syn3 in Cory's XB12 was black as sin and had maybe 3000 miles on it? Not sure of the mileage from the last change, but the bike only has 5500 miles on it. Knew it was due for a change when I checked the oil in it. Pitch black, not quite like tar but getting there. (Message edited by d_adams on July 04, 2011) | ||
| Buellitup |
I run Royal Purple. This review of different brands is pretty good: http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf | ||
| Mcrbuelligan |
this is the one I read https://www.amsoil.com/products/streetbikes/WhiteP aper.aspx ps - happy 4 July all you US buelligans | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Amsoil MCF 10W-40 or MCV 20W-50, depending upon the lowest ambient temperature you will be riding in. Use the highest viscosity oil approved by the manufacturer for the temp you're riding in- it provides more protection for a longer period of time than a lighter weight oil. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
I use the 10-40 | ||
| Court |
I changed mine to Amsoil 20W-50 this week and am putting the same thing in the gearbox (after seeing the Amsoil recommendation for the Buell transmission) today. Then . . . I am just going to go ride some more . . . .  | ||
| Sportster_mann |
Part of our problem is getting some of the oils that you use here in the UK. | ||
| Mcrbuelligan |
sportster_mann i know , though you can order direct from Amsoil UK online | ||
| Russmannnn |
How dose Amsoil work with extended factory warrenty. Ive heard only SYN 3 will keep the warrenty is this true? | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Has anyone noticed better shifting with lighter weight oil? I usually run 20w50 mobil 1. I had to change a weeping oil filter seal and lost some oil in the process, so I added what I had. 1/2 a quart or so of rotella t6 5w40. My occasional grind/crunch shifting into 2nd gear is completely gone now. I'm going to try it next time instead of the 20w50. I'll probably run a shorter oil change interval since it's a 5w. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I'm planning to switch to Amsoil and will be running the 10W40. Here's my logic: Harley specifies a 6200-mile oil change interval and 20W50 semi-synthetic oil. Many 20W50 FULL synthetics shear down to a 40-weight or thinner in well under 6200 miles. Harley presumably knows this, so it recommends a thicker oil so that over the 6200-mile OCI, it will hopefully not drop below a 35-40 weight. (Although I'd wager than 20W50 semi-syn would be close to a 30-weight after 6200miles.) Amsoil's 10W40 is supposedly very shear stable and should maintain its original viscosity (or very close to it) over 6200 miles, meaning that it will almost definitely be thicker than the semi-syn 20W50 specified by Harley at the 6200-mile mark. So Amsoil 10W40 should do a better job protecting the motor in the long run than semi-syn 20W50. Additionally, a 10W40 will flow better when cold than a 20W50. Considering that much of an engine's wear is from cold starts, reducing that wear by using an oil that flows better when cold is a good thing. I've currently got about 3000 miles on Mobil1 15W50 Extended Performance. That stuff is relatively shear stable and has received a lot of good reviews when used in motorcycles, but Mobil1 has discontinued the EP version of 15W50. The non-EP version is supposedly quite a bit less shear stable. Since my oil of choice is no longer available, I'm switching to Amsoil. | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
6200 miles oil change ?.... i don't go more than 2k.... or 2 track days my .02 | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Among many other important functions, oil creates a barrier between metal surfaces inside an engine and transmission. This barrier keeps the metal parts from wearing too quickly, and the viscosity of an oil affects the bearing surface. Higher viscosity oil creates a larger, more protective barrier, it dissipates heat better, and is less susceptible to shear/ breakdown. Because of this however, it makes the engine work fractionally harder to pump the thicker oil, and this results in fractionally lower efficiency. Lower viscosity oil allows a smaller bearing surface, and the thinner barrier reduces pumping losses and fractionally increases efficiency. With this efficiency and power increase, however, comes less protection. Finding the right balance is the trick, and that's exactly what manufacturers do- and give you the information in your owners manual. Following the recommended oil type, class, and grade for the temperature you are operating your bike in is always the best choice for performance, protection, and warranty. When a manufacturer recommends a specific Brand of oil, however, that's all it is- a recommendation- by federal law you cannot be required to use a specific product in order to maintain a warranty. The manufacturers know this, but intentionally mislead customers because it makes them money when uneducated consumers fall for their BS. To maintain your warranty, you have to use an oil that meets or exceeds the type, class, and grade of oil as specified in the owners manual- what brand you choose makes no difference. | ||
| Dbolemiss |
Been running the 20W-50 in the R and Uly. Thinking about the Amsoil brake fluid, anybody using it? I'd like to support them as much as they are supporting us. | ||
| Nukeblue |
bueller4eve, yes. my bike shifted much better with 10-50 repsol syn. got the 20-50 amsoil in now & it's not as smooth | ||
| 1_mike |
Mobil 1, 15-50 has served me well since 1985. Sticken with it... Mike | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Yep, use it also. Use it in both masters. Works great in the race bike. | ||
| Court |
I've used Mobil 1 in all my vehicles since it came out at well. Just filled the truck with it the other day. Changed bikes to Amsoil. I read the detailed study of synthetic lubricants. There are no "bad" ones. Amsoil is #1 and Mobil 1 is #2. Both are incredibly advanced lubricants. | ||
| Skntpig |
Amsoil supports E.B.R. and I support Amsoil. Just sayin' | ||
| Court |
Pretty much the reason I switched the bike over. After reading the lab reports I'm betting the bike would never know the difference . . . . .I'm switching everything over to Amsoil simply because they've stepped up to the plate to help. | ||
| Gofastalot99 |
I've been using Amsoil for years and been a dealer off and on (not currently). I've been doing once-a-year on all my bikes and 2 of 3 cars without incident. Good stuff, but so is Redline. For the price of SYN3 there is really no reason not to step up (way up) to Amsoil. | ||
| Rkc00 |
Court, Are we riding to Ohio????? | ||
| Court |
Perhaps . . . I **may** need to be in PA on Thursday afternoon . . . thought about either having you ride out, we meet up in PA and ride on from there. Or . . . I could take the truck and we could toss your bike in the back and drive to Ohio. Up in the air at this point. If I don't go . . . you wanna leave Thursday night and bang out part of the trip in the night so we can be there for practice? I'm pretty flexible . . . itching for a road trip and in some ways . . .getting on the bike . . cranking up the Stones and the new Revelator and just going is appealing. | ||
| Jcjohnson33 |
Anyone in So. Cal/ Inland Empire know where to get amsoil without having to order it online. Or at least someone local (distributer)? | ||
| Sparky |
JC, South Bay Car Care 4141 Redondo Beach Bl, Lawndale, 310-370-1475 is an Amsoil retail dealer. I've bought 20W50 for my 1125R there before. |
