| Author | Message | ||
     Mudshuvel319 |
So last month I replaced my front and rear head gaskets in my 1999 X1 and reassembled. It ran fine until I noticed the oil leaking out of the base of the rear pushrod tube of the rear cylinder. I reeeaaally don't want to pull the heads off again and Pkforbes87 says here that it's possible to leave the head in place and remove the pushrod base from the lifters. Can someone give me a very brief explanation of this process? I want to make sure I get it right before going through it only to find it leaking again. Also, does anyone know the pushrod tube base gasket p/n or compatibility with a Harley model? I have to get a new set from my local dealer and they don't have the capability (or perhaps desire) to look up Buell parts in their system. I assume it's just the same gasket as a Sportster but I don't know for sure. Thanks for any help anyone can provide. -Dan | ||
| Spiderman |
you would NEVER have to remove the head to remove the pushrod tubes. You only need to remove the rocker boxes. | ||
| Fahren |
Well first, did you replace the base baskets as well when you did the head gaskets? If not, they surely won't hold (especially if they are the old style gaskets), since you have released the pressure on them by removing the heads. So the pushrod issue may not be the only thing to attack. The thread you link to has good info on it. | ||
| Buellistic |
It is my understanding that you can put the cylinder in question on TDC and remove the push rods ... The Lower push rod cover retiner(PN 17952-91)can be slid out to replace push rod cover gaskets ... Have never tried this "BUT" "i" would try it if "i" had a push rod cover leaking rather than remove the head ... | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
i recently removed the pushrods and tubes from motor while it was still in bike with the heads on the motor. Its not hard, just take the rockers off | ||
| Dj66ftw |
It cant be done without lifting the rockers,unless you cut them out and replace them with an adjustable set. More money, less work. | ||
| Mudshuvel319 |
Thanks for the help. I knew I had to take the rockers and lifters off (and I'm ready to do that since I currently have the tank back off) but with the pushrod covers seating inside the head, I wanted to make sure it was possible to pull them off without actually removing the head. | ||
| Chauly |
Allow me my $.02: After we got my motor back together (all new gaskets plus...) I had my first oil leak in 38K miles. It seemed to be coming from the front cylinder pushrod tube bases, so I grabbed the tubes and could not only rotate them, but slide them up and down enough that the high edge of the tube at the bottom would come out of the seal! Long story short, and I still don't know why, there was too much distance from the shoulder of the tube and the 0-ring in the head. When we showed the tubes to Service Manager Bruce at Schaffer's, he said "I know just what you need..." and disappeared. He came back with another set of tubes with a higher and sharper-angled shoulder. WTF? Same part number, different shape. "Sometimes, we put two o-rings in." "Now, Bruce, what TSB is this covered in?" "It's not." Why did the same tubes that never leaked for 38K miles leak this time without two o-rings start leaking? The base gaskets look like they're not twice as thick, nor the head gaskets... Anyway, the moral/advice of this tale is to know that there is another pushrod tube for that motor that will take up the slack. | ||
| Buellmanmike |
Anyone know what that push rod tube is, Chauly is talking about..? Or what the part # is..? I would love to know, because I really want to ride again, and I really don't want to pull those boxes again, but it's much better doing it, with confidence that I am actually fixing this stupid leak. I changed them once and my tubes didn't leak for over 100k miles. Maybe I need the stock lower o-rings instead of the James ones I used? | ||
| Chauly |
I would have a conversation with a knowledgable parts guy about the different tubes. As I mentioned, they had the same PN as before, but a different shoulder that located the sealing surface at the top a bit lower, locating the bottom end down into the lower seal & block further. After 8 years, the specifics are a bit vague; sorry... |
