| Author | Message | ||
     Jcjohnson33 |
Finally got my service manual. I'm past due on my valve check service @15000+ miles so I'll do it at the 18000 mile service. I will admit I was a little scared about the whole rotation stuff at first. After reading the steps in the book it didn't really help. But now that I have read the steps like 3 or 4 time in the past 3 days since getting my book each time it gets easier to understand and visualize the steps required to perform the rotation. | ||
| Firemanjim |
It is not too bad, but getting that rear cover off was a beeatch for me. Not much room anywhere and shock mount bolt is right in the way. Bike I checked was overdue but spot on in specs for check. Now,the clutch cover leak---what a royal pain!!! But found out you do not need the special crank locking tool or the water pump timing tool.(Of course,I found this out after ordering and then taking the bike apart,real obvious from backside!) Water pump gear is timed and has marks on back,used a short allen wrench to hold gear.And there are timing marks on the balancer gears you line up at TDC that way. | ||
| Jdugger |
I think it's just about as easy just to take the bike apart, honestly... | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Do you mean to lift the chassis off the motor? | ||
| Jdugger |
Yea... | ||
| Dnlink |
Just did mine. I wouldn't say the engine rotation is difficult, just time consuming and aggravating at times(reassembly). Go buy some gasket adhesive now, if you can get the rear valve cover back on with the valve cover gasket in place with out glueing it your a better man than me. The F'ing wiring harness is in the way and if you rotate the engine up a little bit to get some slack in the harness then the shock mount is in the way. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Agreed the back lid is a PITA I have replaced one I tore already. BTW the leak from a torn gasket is a torrent... Z | ||
| Tbowdre |
I almost want to lift my frame off just to get a really good look at everything (wiring) and not be fighting cramped spaces..... might just be worth the extra time | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Re: frame-off vs rotation, I'm presuming (because I'm too lazy to research it at the moment) that all the steps needed to rotate are also needed for frame-off, so how much more is involved for the frame-off? | ||
| Jdugger |
Not much, IMHO. Pull off the front end and then undo the motor mount bolts and K brackets. | ||
| D_adams |
Plus disconnecting all the electrical stuff. I intend to find out how long it takes me to do it that way next time. I kinda like the idea of having the motor sitting there all exposed and easy to get at for working on it. Doing it with the frame in the way is a bit of a pita. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Is there a clearance situation that necessitates the front end removal rather than lifting the whole chassis off? Sorry for asking what must be obvious, but I'm visualizing two or three guys lifting straight up off the engine. | ||
| Craigg |
Well i'm going to do my Valve adjustment either this weekend or next. I think we might just lift the frame off the engine. I have 3 people helping. I'll Post pictures of it if you'd all like. Also quick question on the valve adjustment for those who did it. Did you buy some shims and just have it there or did you measure then go buy what you needed? | ||
| Jdugger |
> Plus disconnecting all the electrical stuff Nominal. Most of the wiring harness can stay on the motor, actually. There's a sub-harness that connects the ECM and street bits, and you can mostly pull that independently. Outside of that it's the supply for the fuel pump and fuel hoses.. they are quick connect/disconnect. After rebuilding my bike from the motor up, I took on a real respect for the clever and logical ways the bike goes together and comes apart. It's well designed. > Is there a clearance situation that necessitates the front end removal rather > than lifting the whole chassis off? Not that I know of, but it makes the job wildly easier. The tank/frame + front end is going to be a bit of an unruly contraption to manage and find a place to safely stand up. You can one-man it if you drop the front end, which by the way you can do only removing the top triple clamp! You will be shocked how little the tank/frame weighs. | ||
| D_adams |
There's a fairly cheap kit out there that will work for the 1125, wish I had gotten it when I did mine but wasn't aware of it at the time. I bookmarked it. It's the 10 mm kit. http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/ktm.html | ||
| Dnlink |
I just went and got the shims I needed. I needed to adjust 7 but I was able to move two to other positions to bring the clearances to optimal and only needed to buy 6. I called ahead and they had what I needed. I might invest in the shim kit, It really chaps my ass to spend any money in a H-D dealership. |
