| Author | Message | ||
     Buellster42 |
I have to squeeze my clutch like hell to get the bike to start in gear. Where do I make the adjustment at and how. I will be ordering a maintenance book soon. | ||
| Darthane |
Is the problem that the starter can't overcome the clutch friction, or that it will not crank at all? Two very different problems. Bryan | ||
| Austinrider |
Your fuel pump is not supposed to engage if the bike is in gear - unless the clutch is squeezed. So yes, you have to squeeze the clutch in to get the fuel pump to kick in and prime when the bike is in gear (or just throw the kickstand up like mine). If your clutch is hard to squeeze for your hand, then that is something else all together. | ||
| Buellster42 |
I know about the gear and all, and I'm far from weak if that's what you implying. All I'm asking is how do you adjust the play in the clutch. I have to squeeze almost INTO the grips. | ||
| Hootowl |
nevermind... edited by hootowl on November 12, 2003 | ||
| M1combat |
Does the clutch act funny when you are in motion? Do you need to pull it in that far when you change gears so it doesn't shift hard? Follow the clutch cable. There should be an adjustment screw on it. As far as procedure... buy the service manual. I just read mine cover to cover yesterday and the only complaint I have is that they mention a LOT of HD part numbers. Some of the aftermarket books for other bikes I own actually will give you instructions about how to MAKE specialty tools and such. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
The clutch cable tensioning mechanism is located directly behind the front fork, in front of the engine. Pull up the rubber boot to expose two nuts. Loosen the upper (smaller) nut and rotate the longer nut so that it moves upwardly from the lower part of the cable. Tighten the upper nut against the lower nut after adjusting and place the rubber put. It's easier to adjust from the right side of the bike. | ||
| Hootowl |
That's what I was going to say, but wasn't sure about the XB cable. The tubers are that way. | ||
| Sarodude |
The problem being described (at least the way I'm interpreting it) doesn't sound like it can be addressed by clutch adjustment. It sounds like the thing won't start - as in the starter doesn't crank at all (although it's not clear). My guess is that a dragging clutch isn't what's being described. The starter interlock is (usually) a switch on the clutch perch / lever. I believe that no amount of cable adjustment will affect this thing. I'd look elsewhere for a problem - like the clutch perch or the switch. -Saro | ||
| Hootowl |
The starter interlock switch closes when the clutch lever is pulled. There is no adjustment on this. Turn on the ignition, put the bike in gear, and squeeze the clutch. Note the position of the lever when the fuel pump turns on. If it doesn't come on until the lever has touched the grip, your interlock switch has probably gone South. If it comes on about 1/4 inch from the grip, the switch is OK, and you just need to adjust your cable. It isn't a hard job, let us know what happens... |
