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Aj2010
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2011 - 02:54 pm: | 
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Well I hope that mine will happen to be one of the ones that works rather then one of the ones that doesn't. The stator and regulator swap will happen after the reverse air flow ducting is tested. (Hopefully by next weekend) I'm expecting wonderfully cool things to happen  |
Finedaddy1
| | Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2011 - 09:45 am: |
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I look forward to your pics! |
Finedaddy1
| | Posted on Saturday, June 04, 2011 - 11:57 am: |
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Bad news: Stator going down!
Performed the checks per service manual and it's just starting to crap out on me, just a hair over 6,000 miles on the bike. I plan on calling Custom Rewind and let them do their magic, I'd rather send it off to them and take care of installing it myself than turn it over to the dealership under warranty.
Good news: Compufire unit is good to go! |
Freight_dog
| | Posted on Saturday, June 04, 2011 - 02:10 pm: |
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Looks like my second stator is starting to go at about 6000 miles. I have been on a couple of extended rides lately and while underway at operating temp, max charge is 13.5 V. As soon as I back off the throttle it stops charging and the volts fall back into the 12v range. It takes some time for it to get backup to 13.5 and meanwhile, I find it difficult to enjoy the ride with the constant concern that the bike will leave me stranded far from home and the fact that it still puts out an uncomfortable amount of heat anytime the temps are above 70 degrees. I am charging the battery daily.
My R/R died at 800 miles then my first stator died at around 3500. Fortunately I still have a few years left on my warranty.
Finedaddy, I am disappointed to see your stator going. Sounds to me like the Compufire is not the solution. |
Posplayr
| | Posted on Saturday, June 04, 2011 - 08:31 pm: |
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If the compufire SERIES wont keep those stator from burning up then they are not wound properly for the power they are providing.
Anybody have any idea what the stator resistance is leg to leg and what the open loop voltage is at say 5K RPM?
Typical numbers are 0.5 ohms and 80 volts at 5K RPM 16 volts/1K RPM.
Is 6000 miles more than most or about the same? Anybody know how much current the electrical system takes. I'm not a Buell owner so dont have any manuals. Just amazed that the stator will not hold up to even the SERIES R/R loads.
Finedaddy, Did you put in a new stator when you switched to the Compufire? Was it OE or something else.
(Message edited by posplayr on June 04, 2011)
(Message edited by posplayr on June 04, 2011)
I see that this thing is designed for over 400 watts. Thats about twice that of the GS Suzuki I'm familar with. While the Compufire is rated at 35 amps and the Buell is about 10% less than that, it is sounding more like the stator just can not deliver that 430 watts without burning up.
If the R/R never regulates then the SERIES and SHUNT are basically the same. A heavier current capcity stator is probably in order if you can get a custom one wound.}
Charging 32-amp, permanent magnet, 3-phase, solid-state alternator with solid-state regulator (432W @ 7000 rpm, 432W peak)
(Message edited by posplayr on June 04, 2011)
(Message edited by posplayr on June 04, 2011) |
Tbowdre
| | Posted on Saturday, June 04, 2011 - 11:29 pm: |
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<<<<<<typical>>>>>
This is essentially correct... for my custom rewind stator. Im at 60volts @ 5k,
Never really measured a good OEM stator. LOL!!, but
Over 50 volts @ 5K is spec I think
I am still waiting for compufires thoughts and input on my fried R/R in the pics above. Again I just want a charging sys that works. Not a refund or new R/R (although that would be nice).
I mean seriously there are literally NO OTHER REAL ISSUES with these bikes.. 1125s just rock and I want to keep this bike for a long time
Custom Rewind stator alone might be the answer
1000miles and counting. about to road trip SoCal to Colorado all back roads, desert, about 2500miles..... we'll see!
todd |
Bueller4ever
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 09:33 am: |
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Mine showed 16 volts at idle on two legs, the other was going out and only showed 5 volts. If memory serves, my first stator showed 45 volts at 5k rpms on the two good legs and 20 on the bad. |
Cataract2
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 12:35 pm: |
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A side question. Would the FH0012A VR begin to shunt more power once the battery is fully charged? I noticed that my charge level drops down after the bikes been running for awhile on a ride. It doesn't drop to the point where the battery discharges, but it does drop. |
Finedaddy1
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 04:18 pm: |
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Freight_dog - So far I'm pleased with my Compufire unit, I think the damage started way before I installed the new R/R.
The wires from my stator looked "cooked" way before the install.
Posplayr - This was the original stator in my bike. F.Y.I. leg voltage "per shop manual" should be 45-55 I checked it and got the following:
Leg 1-2 32 volts
Leg 1-3 39 volts
Leg 2-3 32 volts
I noticed when my bike died at a red light and my voltage was not my usual 14.5 I was in trouble! |
Posplayr
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 08:29 pm: |
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Finedaddy1 - Well if you never changed it then you might have damaged it well before and it was just hanging on. Hard to draw any conclusion then other than this seems to be quite a bit higher power level that what I initially figured.
You could talk to your winder and see what he thinks but I would tend to put the stock stator or equivalent back in and see how that lasts with the Compufire. Trying to avoid further complications. |
Finedaddy1
| | Posted on Monday, June 06, 2011 - 09:32 am: |
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Posplayr - "you might have damaged it well before and it was just hanging on."
I agree.
"I would tend to put the stock stator or equivalent back in"
This is what I plan on doing, I hope this will be the nail in the coffin... |
Drhodes1970
| | Posted on Monday, June 06, 2011 - 09:50 am: |
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I will be having my fried stator pulled and sent off to custom rewind in the next few days. What else do you guy's suggest as far as telling my mechanicthat will be doing the pulling and reinstallment. Compufire?Any help would be greatly appriciated. I know nothing about this charging stuff. This will be my third and final try at fixing this. Other "fixes" were done under warranty. |
Finedaddy1
| | Posted on Saturday, June 18, 2011 - 07:16 pm: |
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Installed the newly rebuilt stator from Custom Rewind in my bike yesterday.
Still running the Compufire R/R, so far so good, although rain delayed my riding today (only 33 miles so far). |
Aj2010
| | Posted on Friday, June 24, 2011 - 06:31 pm: |
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Ok the 08 flywheel is on. I wasn't sure I weighed enough to torque the flywheel nut to 295 ft/lbs, but it finally "clicked"
Here are some picks, old (newest) and new (oldest) Yeah it doesn't make a bunch of sense ..... but the stators make even less sense. New, dark brown turning black, old actually out of an 08 that was in a fire, looking as fresh as when it was first installed.
;
;
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Aj2010
| | Posted on Friday, June 24, 2011 - 06:37 pm: |
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I also took the opportunity to install the 2010 chain guide upgrade for quieter running, while I was in there. That's the left side done. I guess the right side will have to wait until I have something to do over there. You can see the difference between the new (left) and the old design (right);
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Finedaddy1
| | Posted on Friday, June 24, 2011 - 10:31 pm: |
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Aj2010 - Great heads up on the 2010 chain guide upgrade.
I still think this (08 mod) will be worth the money. |
Aj2010
| | Posted on Friday, July 01, 2011 - 03:27 am: |
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So far things are looking great. Voltage is in the 14.6 range. Down to 13.9 once and up as high as 14.8, I really didn't expect to see numbers this high from the 08 stuff, this is better then the 09 that it replaced.
Put on about 200 Km's this morning and no melt downs. nice to see the Compufire I got wasn't one of the 7 mile toasters. |
Tbowdre
| | Posted on Friday, July 01, 2011 - 05:14 am: |
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why the higher voltages with a compufire regulator?
An OEM regulator seems to keep things in the mid 13s
The few miles my compufire was working it was 14.5 volts the whole time.
FWIW my regulator has been at compufire for the past few weeks and martin (really nice guy) seems genuinely interested in helping the BUELL community figure this stuff out. I spoke with him earlier this week and he is planning to call me later this week or next and give me his thoughts and the electrical staffs thoughts on why mine failed |
Cataract2
| | Posted on Friday, July 01, 2011 - 07:25 am: |
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Where are you guys getting the Compufire regs at? The one that failed seems like an isolated incident in the end. Also, what connections would need to be ordered to make it able to connect to the wiring harness on the 1125R?
(Message edited by cataract2 on July 01, 2011) |
Cataract2
| | Posted on Friday, July 01, 2011 - 06:40 pm: |
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Anyone? Bueller, Bueller? |
Tbowdre
| | Posted on Friday, July 01, 2011 - 07:18 pm: |
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I bought mine off amazon.com and it was shipped from fay meyers motorcycle world in colorado. I soldered my own connectors from an oem R/R.
might be able to contact compufire directly and have them install the connectors. 562-803-1700 |
Avc8130
| | Posted on Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 11:48 am: |
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I emailed Compufire and they informed me that they have NO products suitable for use on the Buell 1125...
ac |
Cataract2
| | Posted on Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 07:00 pm: |
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I'm looking at the Compufire regs. All seem to say they're only 32 amp. Wouldn't that be a bit low for our bikes? |
Dannybuell
| | Posted on Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 07:02 pm: |
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Compufire, Spyke, is all the same company. Doing a search I found that there were some early Compufire VRs' with issues. Tbowdre may have gotten some NOS. |
Posplayr
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 01:51 am: |
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Tbowdre - I'm assuming your Compufire has a higher voltage at lower RPM's than say the FH012AA might have. That has to do with the SERIES R/R's not having a full wave rectifier made of discrete diodes like an old style SHUNT R/R. Even the FH has 1/2 of a diode bridge. Each diode drops about 1.1-1.3 volts so you are loosing about 2.2 to 2.6 volts in the rectification process with the Old Style, but only 1/2 that with the FET R/R. The drop is negligible say <0.25 volts for the CF because it uses FET's with synchronous rectification both upper and lower legs of teh rectifier.
Question, because I'm doing all this third hand; are the CF regulators getting warm to the touch? I assume nobody has bee n able to measure the total current draw out of the R/R on the 08 v.s. 09 Buells as a function of RPM (say at 1500, 2500, 5000)? Since the bike is EFI (?) it probaly needs to be under load not just reved up in the drive way. |
Avc8130
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 10:58 am: |
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Posplayer,
How useful would that measurement be? I might be able to rig up my Fluke to see it. I just need to figure out 2 spots to take the measurement. Positive battery lead and...where is the next spot I could get in with a probe/clip to read?
ac |
Finedaddy1
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 03:06 pm: |
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Posplayr - "Are the CF regulators getting warm to the touch?"
Yes, while riding it's warm, if I'm in traffic or a long light it gets hot.
Aj2010 - With your '08 rotor and stator, is your regulator getting hot with the above conditions?
I do have access to a thermal temp. gun, I'll try to get it this coming week and give you guys some #'s. |
Posplayr
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 04:28 pm: |
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Avc8130 - I just hate to steer anybody wrong not having ever seen one of these things. The CF is rated at 40 amps which is 580 watts @14.5v, but I would want to see how much current the bikes are really drawing. If you had a clamp on meter that you could read a a couple of RPM's it would be good to know. My concern is that the current demand keeps climbing with RPM and we are potentially getting to the high end of the power rating.
Rene over at the Aprilla board said he measured 32 amps on one leg????
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2865987#post2865987
Not sure about that; without turning this into a science experiment it would be good to just measure the total demand on the DC side (ideally a current clamp on the red wire out). Most meters are limited to 10 amps and you don't want to put that in series with the R/R anyway. So unless you have a DC current clamp then it might be a wasted effort.
Finedaddy - I would just be concerned if you can't put your hand on it. (like 125-150 degF)
It should not get any hotter at a light unless the bike is just getting hotter setting there. Sounds like maybe another install location might be in order that gets better circulation and the bike doesn't heat. The CF will generate the most heat when it is delivering the most current. That shoudl be at higher RPM, but if you are moving then the wind can take away that heat better. Maybe that is all it is. Anyway, knwoing what the current draw is would be useful to confirm the application.
(Message edited by posplayr on July 03, 2011) |
Finedaddy1
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 06:13 pm: |
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Posplayr - I do not have a clamp on meter, if I did I would try this out for you.
When it's hot I can not keep my hand on it for long, as far as mounting it somewhere else..well, it's a Buell and there just isn't anywhere else that I can come up with.
How far are you from East TN? You are more than welcome to do some testing on mine, or maybe there's an '09-'10 in your area that's willing to donate a test mule. |
Posplayr
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 07:07 pm: |
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Finedaddy,
I'm on the left coast in Santa Barbara CA.
this is probably close to what you would need. It is nice if it would measure the AC up to about 1Khz as well as the DC current. Should not be over 100 amps.
http://www.amazon.com/Ms2138r-Current-Digital-Clam p-Ampere/dp/B0006464XW
Jim |
Avc8130
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 07:50 pm: |
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Jim,
I have a current clamp...but I am not 100% how to read it at different RPM while riding. Would not being under load and just revving in the garage work?
ac |
Posplayr
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 08:23 pm: |
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AC- you would set the clamp on DC amps, position it around the red positive lead coming from the R/R.
The only thing about just revving is that the EFI will sense low load and probably not give a full squirt of fuel. Since it is the EFI that causes load to go up with RPM, the best gauge would be under load.
I would at least try in the garage first; see what you get.
Measure idle, 2500, 5000 and 7500.
Jim |
Posplayr
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 10:01 pm: |
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AC- you would set the clamp on DC amps position it around the red positive lead coming from the R/R.
The only thing about just revving is that the EFI will sense low load and probably not give a full squirt of fuel. Since it is the EFI that causes load to go up with RPM, the best gauge would be under load.
I would at least try in the garage first; see what you get.
Measure idle, 2500, 5000 and 7500.
Jim |
Aj2010
| | Posted on Friday, August 12, 2011 - 09:39 pm: |
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Finedaddy, sorry for the delay. The regulator has only ever gotten warm, never hot. Sorry I can't give you a temperature, just warm to the touch. These regulators are rated at 40 amps. Now back to figuring out how to repair the damage I did in my short and not so sweet off road adventure |
