| Author | Message | ||
     Stlrdn |
hey, ok ive put a jardine rt5 can, k&n and the ecm . my bike is still popping and idling rough. ive set the tps sensor 5 or 6 times. the ecm is preprogrammed, does anybody know if the airfilter could be causing this? without the ecm the bike gets really hot! | ||
| D_adams |
Did you let it idle for 10 minutes as specified to allow the IAC to average out? Also, check for leaks in the exhaust. (Message edited by d_adams on June 01, 2011) | ||
| Stlrdn |
yea i let it idle. ill look for any leaks. when im cruising along at about 5000 rpm thats when the popping appears! would this stator problem that everybody is talking about have anything to do with this! ive put about 500 kms on it since i made the changes!i had the update done on the harness! i love the cr but if it keeps giving me problems its gonna go! | ||
| Jules |
i love the cr but if it keeps giving me problems its gonna go I understand you're probably frustrated but TBH that's a bit silly IMHO. You introduced some changes, now you have an issue and you blame the bike? Hardly seems fair. It's unlikely that the stator is causing the issue, it is possible as certain voltage conditions do effect the TPS but assuming you went into diagnostic mode and checked the TPS Voltage and %age then it's unlikely. Is it the Erik Buell Racing ECM you are talking about? It's not clear from your post. The stock airfilter flows roughly the same air as a K&N so it's unlikely to be that. You said "it's still popping and idling rough" so i assume you mean it was doing that prior to your changes? Surely the sensible thing to do would have been to fix that before introducing even more variables into the equation? | ||
| Stlrdn |
How do I go into the diagnostics. I put the pipe on it last year. It was running way to hot and it was chugging and popping at bout 5000 rpm. I put the stock exhaust back on. Yea its a erik buell ecm. There is no chuggin now! It like its backfire while I ride it. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
edited from a quick search....good luck With the key off, hold down both buttons on the IC. Turn the key on and let it cycle through the checks, release the buttons, and you will be in the diagnostic mode. In RUN, the headlights are on, in PARK they are off. Toggle thru the selections with the bottom button(mode?) Exit by pressing the upper button or by turning the key off. what's the condition of the battery? how old is it? do you have a simple volt meter - fully charge should be 12.1- 12.5 VDC | ||
| Jules |
It was running way to hot How hot is "too hot"? What was the Coolant Temp at the time? These bikes do run VERY hot, in summer you can pretty much burn your leg on the frame if you're not careful and occassionally you can hear the fuel boil in the frame too...that's "normal" for these. Adding some insulation inside the frame helps with the fuel boiling (if that ever concerns you). The Erik Buell Racing ECM does make the bike run a bit cooler (as you've noticed) partly because of the slightly richer (in places) fuelling and partly because it has the fans running more often. It's hard to diagnose your problem based on the info you've given (sorry) Are you now running a stock pipe with Erik Buell Racing ECM, if so which varient of the ECM do you have? The fuel maps are different across the varients (per pipe) so you may not have the ideal map for the stock pipe.... When you say "backfire" do you mean it's hunting on a trailing throttle or there is a genuine backfire (detonation noise).. if it's a backfire I'd be looking for an air leak initially.. Mine "hunts" or "surges" (depending on how you look at it) a little on a trailing throttle, not enough for it to bother me but I am aware that it does. What are the AFV values showing? That'd be really useful to know.. CT above 200 is getting towards "too hot" anything over 230 and you'll be in "skip spark" mode which would definately feel like a backfire/misfire but if the bikes that hot you probably have other issues. How's your coolant level looking? And obviously the oil level... | ||
| Stlrdn |
In november the batterey will be 2 years old. I can get avolt meter. | ||
| 1_mike |
Jules - For what it's worth...they don't "have" to run "very hot" as you say if tuned properly. My CR's engine runs 185/195, depending on bike speed on a 95+ degree day in So. Cal. Over 100 degrees doesn't seem to add much heat. While sitting at a signal, it will get to 200/202 degrees.. That's not "VERY" as you say, to me. Modern car engines run hotter thAn that. Mike | ||
| Stlrdn |
The jardine is onthere. I got the right ecm for that pipe. If ya hold the throttle at bout 5000 rpm while riding. Its not smooth its kinda choppy. I don't know how to explain it. Maybe the v engines opperate like this. Its my first one. The levels are good. I rode a gixer for years. It was smooth when I piped it. Don't know much bout fuel inject. | ||
| Jules |
For what it's worth...they don't "have" to run "very hot" as you say if tuned properly. Yes I agree with you.. maybe "run hot" is a bad description... it was more in response to the OP's description of "hot" without a coolant temp reading to go from. Mine averages around ~190 which as you say isn't "hot" as coolant temp goes, but on the other hand my legs/bum and nuts are definately runnig hot! If I were to describe the bike's temperature to someone without refering to the actual CT value I'd say the bike gets hot... the bike...not just the coolant/engine.. But you're absolutely correct, with the right map on things are significantly improved... | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Stirdn - how old is the fuel? - have you tried some "dry gas" - or injector cleaner ( Chevron makes good stuff - don't over do it) it sounds like you have a "surge" at 5K rpm...it's easy to blame the FI - but sometimes it something simple (bad gas/clogged tank vent/low on fuel) or something not related to fueling (low voltage/not charging/ignition needing more volts or amps to fire the plugs) FI in twins have come a long way - you shouldn't have a big difference in smoothness when compared to an I4 | ||
| Dannybuell |
The ebr race ecm makes the engine smoother with a richer fuel curve. The stock ecm surges/hunts way more at lower rpm. I too have been puzzling the situation for over a year. If I squirt my way around town using more throttle/advance and shifting at 4000-4500 rpms the bike can be hard starting. If I accelerate using less advance and shift at 4500-5000 the bike starts fast, just tap the button. I am riding at the same speeds no faster or slower, just using less advance. In 10K+ miles on my CR I have concluded that there is so much carburetion the bikes have an incredible potential to foul the plugs. The slow advance method seems to keep the plugs cleaner. | ||
| Stlrdn |
Ok. Thanks guys. I'm at right now. Ill have to look at it tonight. Ill get back to ya later! I'm up in canada. They seem to use a lot of ethanol up here. Heard that was bad. Appricaite the info! | ||
| Whippetlovr |
I have the same setup on my bike MINUS the K&N, and it runs perfectly (and I'm in Ontario too). Have you tried taking it off and putting the stock filter back on and seeing if it makes a difference? | ||
| Stlrdn |
No not yet. But I'm gonna try that tonight!another one in ontario. Cool haven't seen one yet! | ||
| Bigevildoer |
What grade of fuel are you using? I accidentally threw in some regular gas earlier this year and noticed a difference in the overall performance of the bike. Some occasional minor pops on deceleration as well (running HMF and Erik Buell Racing HMF tune). I usually run the Sunoco Utra 94 - try it some time and see if it helps clear the problem. May take a few tank fulls. Price hurts the pocketbook ($1.49 litre yesterday), but it's worth it. | ||
| Stlrdn |
Its hard to find a sunoco these days. I use high test. I think its 91 at esso. Yea fuel price is a little ridiculous. But we have to pay to send our fuel away and bring it back. Don't know how far I would have to go to find sunoco now. Ill keep my eye out! | ||
| Stlrdn |
ok i did the diagnostic check. no codes came up. the iac said it was 147, so i reset the tps and let it idle for 10 mins.i shut it off and did the diagnostic check again. now the iac says 118, while the bike was idling it said 86 and then it dropped to 71. is this good? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
IAC = Idle air control - the ecu controls the idle speed with a valve and electric motor...here's a link to a search I did for you...don't get too hung up in the software speak - as you have to have the ability to communicate with the ECU - and I don't believe you want to.... - the posts from the search describe the value as a lean vs rich condition - the higher the number the leaner the idle - the lower = richer...with surging and backfiring you are describing ( too lean) a lower number (71 is about 1/2 of 147) it should be much better...chk out the links: experience is a tough teacher - you get the test first and the lesson later... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/sear ch.cgi I guess I learned that a link to a search doesn't work - try searching IAC under the 1125 board and you should see some great posts of those who have learned before you... good luck (Message edited by nuts4mc on June 02, 2011) |
