| Author | Message | ||
     Hybridmomentspass |
Looking for assistance on removing the front head on my S3 I have a FSM, so I know what it says, but I am a bit confused on a part of it. It stated in a note that 'remove cylinder head through triangular hole when removing with front bracket' Its speaking of the K shaped front motor mount So I need to know if I am supposed to unbolt the rubber upper mount, leaving the K shaped bracket connected to the head, or if I can remove the K shaped bracket and leave the rubber one installed to frame. Looking for best way to do this, really need to get this last thing done tomorrow so I can get parts ordered Thank you in advance for any assistance you can give me. If you have pictures, awesome. | ||
| Desertguy |
Jack the front of motor up a little to take the stress off the mount then unbolt leaving the mount hanging. (Don't unbolt the mount from the frame of the bike.) | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
so leave the K shaped piece connected to the frame/rubber mount? Excellent, thanks for quick reply! | ||
| Essmjay |
If you are doing valve stem seals/valve work (which you really should do while the head is off) then you will need to remove the front mount anyway. If so, go ahead and take it off, then remove the cylinder. It is a lot easier to remove when the cylinder is locked in place, and then the cylinder is a lot easier to get out of the frame. I just finished doing a 1250 kit into my wife's S3 so I may have some other tips for you when you get stuck. Just remember one thing, patience is key. If you get stuck, or a bolt seems stuck, or if it just seems that you are unsure what to do next, STOP, and come back later. While cooling off keep reading the FSM because you will see things you didn't notice the first time through. Remember- it is always better to go slow than to have to fix a mistake. Shane | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
essm - thanks! PM me your email address, may need to pick your brain! Biggest thing I've hit so far is the front cylinder, front intake manifold bolt, I've stripped the head, no problems on any of the other three, but that one was stubborn and it rounded the head some, so thats when I stopped, thinking I'll try to take it off when the head is out of the bike. I'll go back at it in the morning | ||
| Ratbuell |
Al at American Sport Bike has "the tool" for intake bolts, makes life MUCH easier. When you put the head back on, and bolt it to the front mount...USE NEW BOLTS. The reason it says "do not remove" on it is because they use torque-to-yield bolts (they stretch when torqued). Single-use. Bolts are cheap. Buy a new pair, don't be frugal on this one. You read posts about people with broken bolts, cracked heads, and stuff like that? Just buy new bolts...and avoid that fun stuff. And put a new base gasket in while you have it apart, too. You unloaded the tension on the cylinder and the base gasket when you unbolted the head. That is a non-reuse gasket just like the bolts. If you get a "top end gasket kit", it'll have all the gaskets from the base gasket up to the rockerbox lid. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Is Als tool the "HD Intake Manifold Wrench"? Have one ,it was so tight in there I could get a good bike on it. Sucks. Was just an awkward angle I guess. I didnt know there was a top end gasket kit, I've already gotten a rocker box gasket kit, maybe I can return it and buy the other. We'll see. Yes, I agree, bolts are cheap, Im never one to skimp on that. Hell I usually buy at least one extra for later, just in case. Thanks for all of the advice, returning to garage in a short bit | ||
| Essmjay |
Why was it you were removing the front head? Because at that point you might as well do the rear also. You can pull the cylinders with the pistons still in them and then if they look good you will be able to reinstall as is. But I am guessing that you will find reason to do at least a hone and rings, lap the valves, and stem seals. I have a set of head gaskets from my top end kit I didn't use because my 1250 kit came with gaskets. Yours for postage if you want them, then you could use your rockerbox kit and just buy the two base gaskets. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
essmjay - tore it down because there is an odd noise coming from motor and it wont stay running. rear head is off already head gaskets - stock, factory units or what? (Message edited by hybridmomentspass on May 26, 2011) | ||
| Essmjay |
Stock Gaskets. Generally speaking, "won't stay running" is an external engine problem, internal problems usually involve excessive oil consumption, leaking gaskets, or failures leading to complete non-running. Odd noises can be hard to diagnose just by listening unless you have something for comparison, like experience, or another similar bike. The cat is out of the bag now, and without knowing your budget and skill set, I think you are looking at doing more than you expect. At least you have a good resource here for help. Without being there, I bet you will need at least a valve job, new rings, possibly a .10 over bore and pistons. If the odd noise is something serious you will soon find out. Shane | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Heres the situation: Went to the track, made three passes with zero problems. Motor ran fine, no noises etc. Went to make fourth pass and while staging I started hearing a pinging noise, metal hitting metal. I shut it off, pushed it back to my pit. Fired it up and it ran about 15 seconds before noise came back and then about 10 seconds later the motor shut off very quickly. This happened twice more that day and once more a few days later so my dad could hear it. There is metal in the oil, quite a bit of it. Yes, It is more than we hoped/expected. Originally we were thinking maybe pushrods or lifters, a quick/easy fix. Now we're opening the motor up = more money, bigger problems. We'll see.... | ||
| Xl1200r |
I wonder if it dropped a valve... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Were there any screws missing from the aircleaner when you took it apart/off? | ||
| Onespeedpaul |
if there's a bunch of metal in the oil, why wouldn't you check out the bottom end as well? | ||
| Brinnutz |
Did you check the oil pump drive gear too? | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
heads and cylinders pulled no gouging on cylinders pistons look ok This sucks. | ||
| Rodent |
Well, to get to the bottom end, you gotta take the top end off first anyway.  My guess is rod bearings. Any play in the rods? Maybe crank bearings. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Once top end was all off my father 'played' with the pistons, one had some play, the other had none. He's thinking roller bearing. Im going to a local guy Tuesday to talk to him, see if he wants the entire bike or just the motor. It'll get fixed. It'll cost me more than I want to spend. But it'll be stronger and faster than before  | ||
| Desertguy |
Oil pump?? By the way, it is normal for the con rods to have a small amount of free-play; the front slightly more than the rear. | ||
| Guell |
Intake bolt TOOL tip, just use a sink garbage disposal wrench. It works great and fits perfectly. Chances are you have one somewhere in your house too! | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Guell - tell me more about this please The rear cylinder had no problems, but the front I just couldnt get a good bite on it. Sucks. | ||
| Guell |
ya know the garbage disposal in your kitchen sink? They all come with an offset allen wrench. You can also go to your local lowes/home depot/ home improvement store and buy one. The disposal wrench fits perfectly and lets you get a good grip on the bolt. | ||
| Oldog |
By the way, it is normal for the con rods to have a small amount of free-play; the front slightly more than the rear. Err No the rods should move freely and fall under their own weight when you rotate the crank there should be no up and down movement to them, no clicking, or dragging and no other noises the bottom end is roller bearings, tapered bearings, and needle bearing a small amount of SIDE TO SIDE movement is ok the rods should not rock ( small end side to side motion on an angle ) and the movement should be smooth as glass .. BTW do not tap your wrist pins in or out press them } | ||
| Rodent |
Oldog is right on the money. No up-down play whatsoever. | ||
| Rodent |
But I suppose all that about piston play is a moot point anyway, even if it was a piston, or something else on the top end, there's metal in the oil. EVERYTHING has to come apart. So what's the latest on the surgery? | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Latest is to hold tight til Tuesday. Who Im going to have do my motor work, I'll go see him Tuesday, find out how soon he can have me back running and if I can bring the whole bike or just motor. I'll keep you all posted | ||
| Desertguy |
That is what I meant, sorry. Slight side-to-side play. | ||
| Desertguy |
And wrist pin bushings, ideally should have .001-.002 clearance between wrist pins. | ||
| Oldog |
Check your fsm the proper clearences are there |
