| Author | Message | ||
     Bartman1 |
Hello all, Took My bike out for the 1st ride this year, and it seems like i have to twist the throttle about 1/4 to a 1/3 to make it start to rev up? then it seems as i ride, i hold in in one spot and it seems to increase speed? anyone had a issue like that? Makes taking off kinda odd... Thanks! | ||
| Craigg |
If you have after market bar ends I would check those first. If you push them all the way in and tighten them they will make the throttle stick. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
check the throttle cables too, i had a minor snag on one that caused mine to do it aswell. Jake | ||
| Eddie |
First ride after sitting up a while is common for me to have to spray a little kroll on the cables. I took it our for a ride last weekend and had the same problem and will need to spray again before next ride. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
My throttle was a bit hard to twist when the bike was warm. I removed the noid and the problem went away completely. Presumably something in the noid's linkage was causing the throttle cable to bind slightly. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
yeah, on the throttle side i had to shave the spacer on the bar end to get the bar ends to fit without rubbing the throttle. | ||
| Bueller_bjorn |
I'd do a TPS reset for good measure, I always do one before my first ride of the season. | ||
| Joseb |
I had that issue on the CR as well. I took the throttle tube / right switch assembly apart, checked all the cables, put a little lube on the throttle tube, reassembled and it was smooth as butter after that. | ||
| Ljm |
I had two issues contributing to throttle problems. The first was that the 1125 I bought used had aftermarket grips and throttle tube that made the throttle throw longer (and wouldn't open all the way). I bought an OEM tube from Al at American Sport Bike and solved that. The second was that the bottom of the airbox sagged until it touched the linkage on the right side of the throttle bodies. I trimmed the ridge that stiffened the bottom about an inch long and 1/8th inch so it would clear and fixed. Took a long time to figure out the last issue though because when I took the airbox cover off it didn't touch. LJM | ||
| Craigg |
Ljm you didn't have to trim that, that just meant you didn't have the inner gasket set right. Pictures would make more sense but I don't have any on hand to show you what I mean. | ||
| Ljm |
Yep, understand. Have two others to compare to and all the same. Not sure why the sag, but didn't own it for the first 4300 miles so not sure what it's life was like. I can say that there are a number of differences from the new one beyond the obvious things like suspension setup, etc. Now that I got rid of the D & D, it is basically stock, however it has SIGNIFICANTLY more torque that the ones bought brand new. So, pondering that, but also instrument cluster stays where you set it, i.e. CT and AT, average mpg, etc., while the both the new ones rest to mpg after turning off. Interesting differences, but mostly want to figure out the performance difference because I want them all that way. | ||
| Willkill |
Bartman 1, I have had the exact same problem as you. It even happens to me as I am riding down the road at constant speed. Then when I do a slow roll-on to increase speed, it takes an extra 1/3-1/2 throttle to make the bike increase speed. When the bike does increase speed, it jumps and accelerates very hard since I have the throttle turned so far. I have the bike in the shop once again for the problem(two times now). The tech just got back to me and said that it has bad throttle bodies. They are replacing them and will be getting the bike back to me soon. Hopefully this will fix the issue. |
