| Author | Message | ||
     Dfbutler |
Every time I take a "spirited" ride, the rear caliper and brake disk has oil on it and dripping off. Does not appear to be any oil on the engine, the only place it could be coming from is the trans breather. Has any one else had oil spraying out of the breather? | ||
| Slowride |
Yep, I had an M2 that would do this every time I did a spirited ride or long 70-80mph run of a couple hundred miles. My issue was that the crank seal had started to fail and the oil from the engine would leak into the primary and start to overflow from the trans vent tube. It took me a while to discover it and I had two HD dealers at the time try to diagnose it to no avail. When I finally figured it out with the help of fellow board members, I took it back to the HD shops and neither of them wanted to crack the case to repair it. Your in luck though, I have seen a thread recently where someone replaced the seal with the cases together. The other possibility is that you have a leaky clutch cable and water has seeped into the primary and started to fill it up and between the foam and the oil it is starting to seep out the vent tube. My 2 cents and there are other more experienced engine guru's on this board, so be patient and they will get you sorted. | ||
| Foximus |
Errrrr.. Try again. (check your compression.  ) | ||
| Bigslug |
Sounds like one of two things, overfilled trans or bad crank seal which causes the trans to fill with motor oil. Pull your clutch inspection cover and check level, I'll bet it's too full. Mike | ||
| Kalali |
I have not heard anyone had to open the case to repair the crank seal. Check your engine oil level and see if it is dropping. Also check your FSM. No reference to case for crank seal. Those HD mechanics are pure gold... | ||
| Dfbutler |
If it is a bad crank seal, at least the trans isn't running out of oil. Besides the obvious, using engine oil, is there any potential problems that could cause damage (assuming I check the engine oil)? I don't really have the cash right now to pay to fix it and may be too much for my mechanical expertise to undertake. | ||
| Foximus |
(check engine compression....) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I was broke when my seal went too. I rerouted my tranny breather to under the bike. Nothing was actually harmed but as it got worse, it lubed the rear tire pretty badly. The repair was cheap as it ended up. It's a common sportster malady. Any H-D dealer can do it for you. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I was broke when my seal went too. I rerouted my tranny breather to under the bike. Nothing was actually harmed but as it got worse, it lubed the rear tire pretty badly. The repair was cheap as it ended up. It's a common sportster malady. Any H-D dealer can do it for you. | ||
| Buellistic |
For SAFETY run your transmission breather to a catch container just in case you motor sprocket oil seal goes bad allowing engine oil to drain into transmission or by mistake you over fill your transmission ... | ||
| Charlies_s1 |
I think I may have over filled my trans. The manual calls for 1 quart. Too much? Where does the stock vent end up? I just purchased the S1W that was in the classified section and have been going through a few things. | ||
| Desertguy |
1. What does engine compression have to do with it? 2.Should the molded hose from the primary vent be routed so that the end of the hose is ABOVE the tranny? 3. 1 qt. is a little too much; 28 oz. max due to some oil always remaining in pri. case. | ||
| Desertguy |
Sunday I went for a spirited over 95mph for 180 miles. When I got home the rear brake was oiled. Crap. It seems to be coming from pri. breather especially since I had it routed down too low. So I just cleaned the brakes with Brakleen and lightly sanded them, cleaned up the mess on the rear wheel with gas, routed the molded pri. vent hose pointing upward and installed a clear gas filter, 3/8" fittings to act as a see thru catch-can. I suspect flywheel/crank seal but to be sure, I will go for another fast run on Sat. making careful note of exact engine oil level before and after. | ||
| Alfau |
Been there done that! Check your tranny oil level. I used an oil suction pump from Auto Barn to suck it down to the proper level. Degreaser and pressure pack of break cleaner will clean up the mess,make sure you rinse off with water. keep an eye on engine oil and keep your revs down until you can get it done. These motors also hammer out the valve stem seals besides the engine seal if you go too far over the red line. You'll need a clutch spring compressor,the oil seal and new oil. about three hours and around $20 to do it yourself. | ||
| Fasted |
you DO NOT need a clutch spring compressor. you SHOULD replace the detent plate and the securing clip while you have the clutch pack off | ||
| Buellistic |
You do not need to take apart the clutch to get complete clutch/basket off ... Just PM me for motor sprocket nut and clutch basket nut take apart and re-assemble "INFO" ... "PLUS" other related "INFO" ... (Message edited by buellistic on May 24, 2011) | ||
| Preybird1 |
It's just going to get worse and you will have to change it within 100 miles. It's going to get dangerous fast! Ask me how i know. I even put in a clear fuel filter to catch it....Just like you did and it caught a little but mostly overflowed and oiled the whole rear end of the bike. I lucked out and was riding in a straight line on freeway. I stopped once and let it drain back. and by the time i got where i was going 50 miles the bike was a mess. | ||
| Chauly |
The rear brake is pretty weak anyway...  I had the seal pop out after a rebuild, and did exactly as you described. It takes about an hour to fix with the right-sized tools. | ||
| Reepicheep |
When it goes, it starts small, but quickly progresses to projectile... errr... spraying. Put me in the DAMHIK category (but for the record, it was a perfectly executed standing rolling 360 degree donut leaving the stop sign near my house, in front of a wide eyed neighbor). Fix the seal. The metal primary cover can be reused, the seal is cheap, and you can do it without the factory tool if you think about it and are careful. | ||
| Desertguy |
Sounds good guys. Get 'er done. Seal on the way, I hope it is new improved. one. | ||
| Alfau |
It does pay to check the grenade plate while your in there which involves pulling clutch apart. | ||
| Oldog |
DF if you have in excess of 20 K miles on the machine its time crank seal for me an afternoon, for a normal person proly 2~3 hrs the clutch can be removed as a unit, the alternator bell & chain go with it big sockets, red lock tite, break clean, locking bar, seal driver, primary gasket, seal oh and the mutha of all torque wrenches | ||
| Desertguy |
I never had to do the seal (crankshaft.) The leak was semi-stripped clutch cable female threads. I used Loctite thread repair compound and so far it has stayed dry. Eventually If it leaks again I will put a Heli-coil in it. | ||
| Easy_rider |
for me an afternoon, for a normal person proly 2~3 hrs I really wish I had taken the time to write out how the seal change went for me. I wanted to do something with a sense of humor to relaying how what should be an easy repair sometimes goes for the rest of us. I've still got a slight bit of nerve damage in one finger from pinching it when the clutch drive slammed against it. It is very doable, assuming you have a shop manual. Things to keep in mind: Read the manual well before hand and note which washers and seals you'll need to replace before you dig in. Remove (and later fasten) the clutch cover screws evenly. It will bind up if you don't. Buy at least one extra screw on your parts run. Maybe two....or four.. I remember missing removing one screw on the bottom of the primary cover. Make sure you get them all. All the pounding in the world with a rubber hammer won't loosen the cover until all the screws are out. It's helpful to have some help removing the primary chain, clutch pack, and alternator altogether. The alternator rotor (front of the chain) contains magnetics and will resist being removed. There isn't another bolt holding it in place, no matter how many you missed earlier. You don't need a special tool to remove the seal. You don't need a tool to install it. It does help, however. As one member has relayed a few times, don't install the new seal too deeply, or you get to do it all again. Take your time, enjoy yourself, take pride in knowing you can maintain your own bike. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Take your time, enjoy yourself, take pride in knowing you can maintain your own bike. Wiser words were never spoken. | ||
| Oldog |
I remember missing removing one screw on the bottom of the primary cover. Make sure you get them all. All the pounding in the world with a rubber hammer won't loosen the cover until all the screws are out. havent we all had those moments ? } | ||
| Easy_rider |
Some more than others...  |
