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Jraice
| Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2011 - 05:56 pm: |
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What bikes will work with the ZTL2? I want to try a radial master cylinder to get a bit more feel and power but the Nissin unit on American Sport Bike (seems to be the same unit many metric bikes use stock) is about 3X's the price I have seen on E-bay. |
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Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2011 - 09:49 pm: |
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There's really no noticeable improvement by going to a radial master, despite wha the mags may claim. That's not to say that there can't be some improvement found by a different master. The 1125's master feels the sloppiest of any I've felt. The only time it feels decent is after I push the pistons back into the caliper, bit that firmness disappears after 500 miles or so. |
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Froggy
| Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2011 - 10:03 pm: |
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Flesh, I got first hand experience with three ZTL2 equipped bikes in my garage, one is running the radial from American Sport Bike, and it feels fantastic compared to the stocker. Running stock pads in all 3. |
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Jraice
| Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2011 - 10:20 pm: |
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Froggy. I think he is saying it's not the radial that makes most of the difference. It's the stock MC itself that lacks. I had someone sat the Asb unit appears to be identical to a gsxr1000 MC. |
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Pizzaboy
| Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 03:14 am: |
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i traded my stock 1125 brake MC in for a 06-07 yamaha R6 brake MC. its a brembo piece. HUGE improvement in brake feel, and not expensive either! i think i paid a total of 90 bucks for the conversion before getting some matching levers for my mismatched needs. i still find it odd to look at the Japanese fluid reservoir mounted to my top triple, after seeing the stock buell piece for so many years. the nice part about this mod, also, is that the brake line and banjo fitting is the same size and thread pitch. direct swap. |
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Jraice
| Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 04:33 am: |
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Did the R6 MC give you more stopping power or just feel? I want more bite as well, at least with less lever pressure. Thats a smaller bore MC than American Sport Bike recommends but it sounds like a good unit for the price, although there are some 19mm units out there (GSX-R1000). |
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Tsnake
| Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 06:27 am: |
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i have nissin pr19, too much better! |
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Mackja
| Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 08:16 am: |
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I put the ZTL2 on my 07 xb track bike along with an Accossato radial master cylinder, and it is like another world, much better feel. well worth the investment. |
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Jraice
| Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 01:14 pm: |
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Looking for bang for buck not a $200+ Mc . |
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Tsnake
| Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 05:32 pm: |
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r6 is a 16 I think ? I dont this a mc could go more power, but could give a shorter distance. the nissin one I have is 19x18, x20 is shorter so feels more powerful I think |
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Dirty_john
| Posted on Monday, May 23, 2011 - 08:23 am: |
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Used a Brembo RCS radial master cylinder, all it needed was a banjo bolt to suit the threads of the Brembo unit, much better unit than OEM (Message edited by Dirty_john on May 23, 2011) |
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Dirty_john
| Posted on Monday, May 23, 2011 - 08:27 am: |
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As fitted to my 1125R
![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/633867.jpg)
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Tsnake
| Posted on Monday, May 23, 2011 - 08:36 am: |
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hey dirtyjohn do u prefer the 18 or 20? |
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Dirty_john
| Posted on Monday, May 23, 2011 - 11:55 am: |
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Tsnake - use it on the 20, I have always loved front brakes that as fa as possible have the brick wall effect, even if you have to be extra careful when tyre grip is not 100% |
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Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Monday, May 23, 2011 - 02:13 pm: |
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I'd probably switch to another master, but I have to admit I'm a little particular to looks--I wouldn't like having mismatched master cylinders, so I'd want to swap out the brake and clutch master with a matching pair. Which would get expensive. |
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Jraice
| Posted on Monday, May 23, 2011 - 02:55 pm: |
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XB with ZTL2. No clutch master. |
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Nuts4mc
| Posted on Monday, May 23, 2011 - 03:14 pm: |
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recently I installed a M/C from a 1997-2003(?) Hayabusa - it has a 5/8" bore vs the stock bore 9/16" (14mm) of the Buell...Hayabusa's of that flavor had no "sample cup" and had to push 12 pistons vs the 8 of our Buells...looks very "Stock" increases brake performance with less effort (moves more fluid for the same travel) - had to install the Buell's brake lever as the Haybusa's lever is farther from the bars (it fit with no problem) - the stock line has to be twisted 90 deg ( which i don't recommend) but is doable - bought the M/C for $40 and and a rebuild kit for ~$40 from Bike bandit - switch was included with the M/C and it fit fine ...I'll take some pix when I get home |
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Nuts4mc
| Posted on Monday, May 23, 2011 - 10:24 pm: |
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Hayabusa M/C
![hayabusamc1](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/634060.jpg)
![haybusamc#2](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/634061.jpg)
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Jcjohnson33
| Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 12:46 am: |
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does'nt the busa use the same mc from '99-'11? But what do you mean "nuts" by the sample cup? I have seen the busa mc for like $35 on ebay. |
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Jraice
| Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 03:42 am: |
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Wonder if the brake line would clear my clubman bar setup. Not a radial unit? Still a big improvement? |
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Nuts4mc
| Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 09:22 am: |
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JC - the newer 2004(?) and up Hayabusa's went back to "parts bin" type front end using a front brake set up shared with the GSXR-1000, the front brakes only have 4 pistons per caliper -I don't know if the M/C is integrated or has a "sample cup"...even my 2003 1000cc Vstrom has a similar M/C as to the one in the pix (5/8" bore)...."Sample Cup" - I guess you don't have random drug testing at your shop? - kinda looks like the "cup" the nurse asks you to leave a sample in... the Buell stock M/C is 14mm (9/16) the Busa's is 16mm (5/8) the difference is only a 1/16 of an inch, but if you remember your Hi school geometry - Pies are square the 14mm piston area is 154sq mm, the 16mm piston is 201sq mm...you push 47sq mm more fluid down the line with the same lever travel...the result is caliper pistons moving faster although the M/C lever travels the same ...you also gain mechanical advantage - meaning you don't have to squeeze so hard on the lever to get the same force at the caliper - kinda like having power brakes on a car...try it you might like it! |
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Aj2010
| Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 09:46 am: |
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Interesting Nuts, not disagreeing with the math, just the part about gaining mechanical advantage. With the greater area of the 16mm piston and moving more fluid you would loose mechanical advantage not gain it. |
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Nuts4mc
| Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 12:07 pm: |
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yea AJ you are correct ...it was early this AM when I started up the slide rule...it never lies, but my old grey matter needs caffeine to correctly compute... If you look at the new radial pump type M/Cs the give you 2 "values" - first one being the leverage ratio the second one being the piston bore - I don't know what the leverage ratio is on the 'busa M/C- and it will take more force to make the brakes lock - but the travel in the lever needed to do so is less - making the connection between your brain and the brakes happen faster...with my old brain I need all the help I can get! ...and for $35-40 it's worth it! |
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Thefleshrocket
| Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 02:39 pm: |
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The Hayabusa masters would probably be the route I'd go, except replacing both the clutch and the brake so they matched. Back when I had an SV1000S, I was strongly considering getting Hayabusa masters to get rid of the ugly pee cup reservoirs. In all actuality I'll probably just live with the stock brake master and periodically push the pistons back into the caliper to temporarily restore lever firmness. I can push the pistons back without removing the caliper, so it's a quick and easy "fix". |
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Jraice
| Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 02:48 pm: |
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Someone is selling a GSXR1000 nissin 19mm unit. Similar to Asb one? Still a good choice? $75 good condition with stock lever ($135 with crg). Has no hose or reservoir but I imagine that's cheap. |