| Author | Message | ||
     Scow1 |
So i got around to replacing my front rotor. In the processes of removing everything I loosened up all the bolts that held the calipers together "idiot mistake on my part". I saw brake fluid leaking out said o shit and cranked them back down. Removed pads and rotor, put the new stuff back on bolted everything back up to specs. When I try bleeding the system I'm getting fluid to come out but I cant get the system to build pressure. The fluid is clear no bubbles. I went through 4 reservoir before I said something is not right. Took the caliper back off and removed the pads. When I pump the brakes I cant even get the pistons inside to move. Do I have a huge air pocket or did't I mess something up when I broke the bolts free that split the caliper? | ||
| Skntpig |
Try taking the system off and bench bleeding. Put the caliper higher than the master and let gravity help you. You can also try back bleeding with a syringe to force fluid up. If you try the syringe open the top of the master so air and fluid will go up. | ||
| Gmaan03 |
LMAO! Sorry to laugh but I have done the same exact thing in the past(jap bike)! It is one of those "Oh Crap" moments | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
once you get at least a small amount of pressure to build up at the lever, I've always had good luck with tying a zip tie around the lever and the handlebar to hold pressure on it overnight. I think what happens is that any air bubbles in the line rise to the top easier when they're under pressure. This method has improved lever feel a handful of times on my X1. I tried it on my XT a while back, and results wore off after just a couple of days. I'm not sure what the results of boiling brake fluid are, but I'm guessing I've done that to the XT and will need to change fluid before it improves permanently. | ||
| F_skinner |
I had good luck with Skntpig's method. | ||
| Rick_a |
I use a hand vacuum pump from an auto parts store with a home-made sealed catch can to vacuum bleed before hand pumping. It's a lot faster than anything else I've tried. If you have a compressor you could always order one of the real vacuum brake bleeders. | ||
| Oldog |
sorry to be the bearer of bad news plan on removing the caliper and rebuilding it, there are 2 o rings at the ends of the assembly that if they don't match up its going to leak, the o rings seal drilled passages from half to half and if one is out of position or has been cut...... | ||
| Desertguy |
Ok...here is how to solve your problem: Your master cyl. has sucked air. After you resolve caliper issue, crack the hydraulic line AT the master and bleed as you would the caliper, til no more bubbles. Then bleed caliper. Done. | ||
| Ratbuell |
air bubbles in the line rise to the top easier when they're under pressure. That, actually, is precisely wrong. Pressure keeps bubbles suspended in fluids. Release the pressure, and the air is released. Think soda bottle. What happens when you tie the lever off is, it keeps the piston in a position that allows any air from the line to bubble up and OUT of the fluid because it lets it come all the way to the surface. When you do this trick, make sure your master cylinder cap is NOT bolted down. Keep it in place so there is no debris falling in, but do not tighten it down (leave yourself a note to tighten it for when you ride in the morning, DAMHIK). For the caliper rebuild...use a CLEAN surface, go slow, and keep organized. Lube any new seals or O-rings with fluid before installation. Make sure not to nick any pistons, and keep them lubed with fluid as well. It's not difficult, but doing it in the right order makes a big difference  | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Just a quick comment on a problem I had last week - I had crushed the bleeder valve some, it wouldnt let the brakes bleed properly. Its something that without a speed bleeder we'd have never guessed Sucked, me and my father spent well over an hour pumping the brakes and trying to bleed them, something that shouldnt take but a few minutes. It wasnt until the next day when my friend with the speed bleeder put it on the bike and we realized a problem. Its easy to mess up that valve, just overtighten once and its got to be fixed. Good luck on your brake issues, hopefully youll be back on the road enjoying the Buell soon! | ||
| Scow1 |
Where can you buy new crush washers if I remove the caliper? Does any local auto store carry them, or will I need to order them from a dealer? | ||
| Skntpig |
You will most likely be able to reuse your washer unless it was over torqued. | ||
| Guell |
heat them with a torch | ||
| Scow1 |
Was able to get them working today. Reverse bleed the caliper and then normal bleeding pressure, was built up in less than 3 bleed downs. Thanks for the help guys! | ||
| Jimi_james |
Thanks for the info on this discussion. I had to take my front cal apart because of seized brake pad bolt. Could not re bleed the brakes using conventional pump and squirt method. My next thought was a vacuum bleed at the cal, however this did not work. After reading I used the syringe method and the 2 pulls on the brake and there was the pressure. Man 3 days wasted. |
