| Author | Message | ||
     Tbowdre |
In the middle of stator replacement/rewind and I figured I would address the new spec for the rotor nut. This is my plan: - bike in 6th gear - big cheater bar through the spokes and against swing arm - tighten nut to 300ft/pound spec This is my question - would you loosen the nut, remove it, clean and apply new loctite? - Do you guys think it is a bad idea to use the rear wheel/transmission to hold the engine? - My rotor seems fine on visual inspection and manipulation with my hands. Should I just leave it? As always, thanks for all the help badweb, todd | ||
| Dannybuell |
As per E-B-R "Tool required to lock crankshaft for servicing stator nuts, etc." http://www.EBRacing.com/shop/product172.html | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
do you need to take out the spark plugs to rotate the crank? | ||
| Puzzled |
Use the locking tool.  tighten nut to 300ft/pound spec Is that a new spec or a typo? I ask as I just did mine and I swear it read 200.} | ||
| Tbowdre |
I thought I read 300 ft/pounds, up from 150, here on previous posts | ||
| Skntpig |
Hey Puzzled. Is that some type of blue silicone on your case bolts? Have you had them out or is that factory...Or am I not seeing it right? | ||
| Puzzled |
Hey Puzzled. Is that some type of blue silicone on your case bolts? Have you had them out or is that factory...Or am I not seeing it right? Since this bike was purchased from a road racer I'm going to assume the blue silicone was put on the bolts to keep them from vibrating out. I say that as there is no reason for there to be silicone on the bolts as far as assembly goes.} | ||
| Puzzled |
I thought I read 300 ft/pounds, up from 150, here on previous posts That is a $hit load of TQ. I recently assembled my motor and the manual called for 200 lbft. (Message edited by puzzled on May 07, 2011) (Message edited by puzzled on May 07, 2011) | ||
| Dannybuell |
There was a higher torque number from anon here. call or write Erik Buell Racing and ask. | ||
| Puzzled |
Searched the archives, yep 300# has been mentioned numerous times. Can't possibly get that much while the motor is on the bench. I will have to wait until it is in the bike. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Is it really necessary to remove the spark plugs, like the service manual calls for, to turn the flywheel? The tool needs to be aligned with the tool bore in the flywheel. (Message edited by dcmortalcoil on May 09, 2011) | ||
| Tbowdre |
bump got my parts and starting my install of rewound stator and compufire R/R based on responses here I think I will leave the nut alone  | ||
| Bueller4ever |
I would leave the nut alone. Mine ain't making any noise, so why mess with it. | ||
| Tbowdre |
1) because I am there already 2) cause Erik Buell Racing said too 3) I usually leave no stone unturned (know what I mean?) Am i really the only guy that has used the rear wheel and swing arm to hold an engine? rotate an engine? come on..... I bought a 32mm socket  | ||
| Pmjolly |
Tbowdre, I am waiting for the answer to your question also. I'd like to know if it would work to use the rear wheel. I'd want to re-torque that nut also. | ||
| Jdugger |
I lost a motor and a collar bone to a loose stator nut. Take it seriously. | ||
| Jgarner99 |
Considering you'll only need to use it once, the factory locking tool is kinda expensive. As an alternative, how about someone who's already bought one agree to "rent it out"? Say, one week for $10, plus shipping (Priority Mail for under $5). Any takers? | ||
| Rob_l |
Tbowdre, you will get a false torque blocking rear wheel due to torque going from nut through trans. belt and pulleys. I like Jgardner99's idea of tool rental. | ||
| Puzzled |
The locking tool is $60. Small investment if you plan on keeping the bike. | ||
| Pmjolly |
I don't understand how you would get a false torque value by blocking the rear wheel. The torque wrench is measuring how hard you twist that nut regardless of what is going on elsewhere. I can see the shaft turning a little until everything gets tight against the rear wheel through the transmission, but it will still just measure how much torque you put on that nut. I would be more worried about breaking something in the engine or transmission due to the multiplying effect of the transmission. I don't know if it would be safe for the engine and transmission. | ||
| Tbowdre |
+1 pmjolly I plan to look at my stator in July after a couple thousand miles and ill get a crank locking tool to do it right. Remove nut, clean install and torque correctly.... oh well I was hoping for a short cut. |
