Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post Archive through October 19, 2010 Rusty7983 30  1  10-19-10  10:34 pm Archive through April 02, 2010 Crackhead 30  1  04-02-10  01:13 pm Archive through November 29, 2008 Ezblast 30  1  11-29-08  02:41 pm Archive through November 21, 2008 Reuel 30  1  11-21-08  03:47 pm Archive through November 13, 2008 Reuel 30  1  11-13-08  11:20 am Archive through October 18, 2008 Ezblast 30  1  10-18-08  07:24 pm Archive through October 16, 2008 Robi 30  1  10-16-08  03:18 pm Archive through July 08, 2008 Swampy 30  1  07-08-08  10:53 pm Archive through June 14, 2008 Fast1075 30  1  06-14-08  09:51 pm Archive through May 22, 2007 Mmelvis 31  1  05-22-07  11:32 pm Archive through December 11, 2006 Ezblast 30  1  12-11-06  11:43 pm Archive through August 29, 2006 Gearheaderiko 30  1  08-29-06  12:24 am Archive through July 07, 2006 Gearheaderiko 30  1  07-07-06  11:43 am Archive through July 02, 2006 Buellboy492 30  1  07-02-06  11:29 pm Archive through May 26, 2005 Swampy 30  1  05-26-05  09:26 pm

Note: when replacing the isolator, tighten from the bottom till you are 2 1/2 threads out of the top bolt, then torque from the top -

Note: - if you can - always buy new center bolt nut and giant washer as well,and suporting nuts, bolts, and washers.

Tips: Torque from the bottom, a lite coat of oil between the washers and the rubber, and use new bolts, nuts, and snubber, and keep the motor supported with a jack - you should be good to go.
New Isolator Kit! pt# L1501.T



Looks and feels the same as the one prior that I put in Vader, however, the spacers are a different height, Instructions are pretty much same as the manual though.
EZ

A front engine mount limiter is available to stiffen up older isolators. However, the new isolator #L1501.T already comes with a bottom limiter built into the design. Add 3 or 4 large washers to the top of the updated mount and you've accomplished the same thing and saved yourself $35! You can also add large washers to the bottom of older mounts that dont have the limiter built in.

Author Message   Rusty7983 Posted on Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 10:44 pm:        i should mention i replaced the tie bar. i matched it to the old and put it in and it was lined up correctly. could i have screwed it up?   Ezblast Posted on Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 11:01 pm:        Nope, if you used a new bolt. EZ   Gearheaderiko Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 01:36 am:        New bolt??? All the tie bars are the same length. If you matched the old one you are fine. As far as the exhaust, weld it back together and use the stock exhaust mounting hardware (front mount, per EZ). If the Jardine muffler is toast, it can be replaced with something else.   Ezblast Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 01:35 pm:        Yes - he's talking about the do not remove bolt that would have to be replaced with another factory bolt? EZ   Rusty7983 Posted on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 09:35 pm:        i just finished the mount. having the harbor freight wrench mentioned above was it. it is the only thing that worked. i tried the crowfoot wrench, but could nit get it in there. i blocked the motor/ trans up and swapped it out. with the new mount i had to raise the motor up 3/8 inch. you can see on the old mount vs. new how bad it is.   Rusty7983 Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2010 - 09:27 pm:        i put 100 miles on it today. it rides much better. alot of vibration is gone too.   Mcsight Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 07:52 pm:        Motor Mount Replacement Bolt Source Hello all, I'm having a bear of time finding replacement bolts for the DoNotRemove mounting bracket. The local HD place along with some others in NC can't seem to find them either. HD confirmed twice that this bolt, which was sheared off due to a failed front isolator, is sized at 7/16-18 2 1/4. Is everyone in agreement on this spec? Thus far my search has found only 7/16-14 or 7/16-20 most at a length of 2" with a possible 2 1/4" length via Fastenal. Fastenal said they couldn't order the bolt but could have one made for me... Does anyone have a good source for these bolts or advice on a path to replacing them? My 01 is about to get some new gaskets to resolve the seeping, a new motor mount with is now riddled with hairline cracks, and a new isolator! It will be a fresh spring if I can find these da*m bolts. Many thanks   Ezblast Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 08:09 pm:        Try NHRS - if Chicago HD can't get them, NHRS sells a custom mount and bolt kit - pricey billet. EZ   Krjoseph Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 09:01 pm:        I'm not sure about that. 14 pitch is coarse, 20 is fine, as far as I know there is no 18 pitch 7/16 bolt. I just checked my 2001 Blast Parts book, I don't think it ever changed. The bolt is 7/16-14 pitch at 2-1/4 length. I get all my fasteners from boltdepot.com, they have grade 8 stuff in all sizes.   Johneblast Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 09:47 pm:        I agree with Krjoseph. I replace my sheared off motor mount bolt with a 7/16-14x2" and used red loctite. Did that 2000 miles ago and so far all is good. I do plan to locate a 2 1/4" though to make it right, but finding that length at a drop was more time than I had to find it.J   Mcsight Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 07:31 pm:        Alright! I'll take the correction and get moving. I'm guessing something is awry in the book as I've had 2 different dealerships tell me the size was 7/16-18... Goose chase over. Thanks guys!   Swampy Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 09:28 pm:        Check those bolt holes. When you get the new bolt thread it into the head and check to see if it moves around, in other words, check to see if the hole has opened up. The head is soft aluminum and when things go bad the bolt hole will get larger and the bolt will flex in the head and break again. One time, at band kamp, I found the bolt broken flush and then broken again about 3/8" in! I was having repeated bolt failures with two Blasts. I finally checked to see how tight the hole was and found the bolt loose in the hole. I stacked 7/16 Helicoils and I have not had one break on me after that. I put the cut helicoil in the bottom of the hole and the full Helicoil at the top of the hole flush with the mounting surface. Follow the torquing sequence to the Tee!   Mpenalver Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2011 - 10:04 pm:        Hey guys, I took a spill last week and just noticed that the motor mount that attaches to the head and is labeled "do not remove" is broken. What is that called? I can't find one on fleabay and I can't seem to find out what it's called. If anyone has a spare or knows what it's called I'd appreciate the help thanks. Marc   Gearheaderiko Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2011 - 11:22 pm:        American Sport Bike has billet model $160 http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/6790.html The stock part number for the "front isolator bracket" is L0149.T $53 The are often on e-bay. Just do a search for Buell Blast and it would come up.....eventually   Mpenalver Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 10:52 am:        Thanks Gearheaderiko, You and EZ are probably responsible for keeping 1/2 of us on the road. I hope that I'm eventually contributing more than I'm absorbing on this board.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 12:12 pm:        Thanks. I'd like to think I help. I did go through all 1067 ebay Blast listings last night and didnt see a bracket. Some people who regularly list parted out Blasts would be worthwhile to contact and see if they have the bracket. Or the American Sport Bike part is nice too (shouldnt break again).   Gearheaderiko Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 02:59 pm:        http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-BUELL-BLAST-FR ONT-ENGINE-MOUNT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27ba9 35bacQQitemZ170633943980QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5 fAccessories#ht_1900wt_941   Toniportray Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - 03:50 pm:        The posterior right bolt on the rear engine mount on my Blast keeps shearing off the head. It fails almost every 1000 miles and it's a pain in the arse to replace because I have to use a winch to lift up the tail and then use a dremel to cut a flat-head groove into what little bolt sticks out from the engine. I'm really sick of doing this. I've tried grade 8 and grade 9 bolts and they all fail. This is the 3rd or 4th time this has happened. Does anyone have a solution? Would it be possible to try and just weld the black mount piece to the engine case? I'm sure that would hold up nicely and cut down vibrations. Thanks ahead for your input.   Ezblast Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - 10:53 pm:        You still living a 1/4 mile down that awful rocky pot holed strip of ground you call a driveway? No you can not weld it! - LOL EZ   Gearheaderiko Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 02:17 am:        I dont have an answer to why, but you could (probably) use a stud with a nut (and washer) instead. I couldnt tell you why this would work better, but sometimes it does with problematic bolts or studs.. You might also measure your tiebars and make sure they are the same length-doesnt matter where you measure them. I dont think that would cause the bolt to break, but you should just check it as a related item.   Toniportray Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 08:58 am:        Hehe, actually I moved out of Petaluma and into El Cerrito this summer, so I'm in the east bay as you are. Petaluma did have horrible roads conditions. The problem now is that I don't have access to a garage. I still have all my tools but no place to work on the bike other than the street. I'm going to ask around and check with some friends to see if I can find some space to work for half a day or so to try and fix this problem. The stud with a washer and nut probably would be better, and I could stack a couple washers between the mount and the stud so that when the bolt breaks in the future (I'm sure it will), there is more thread sticking out so I don't have to go through the hassle of winching up the bike to get at the severed bolt.   Johneblast Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 09:46 am:        Toni, I got a garage with eye hook in the rafters to hang the bike and plenty of space. I'm in Rodeo if your able to get out this way. It's only 8or9 miles from where you are. I've got the manual for the 2001 that I ride if you could use it too. Later   Gearheaderiko Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2011 - 09:04 pm:        SWEET! Blasters helping Blasters! Thats how its done Maybe you can compare Blasts and see if you notice anything odd or different too.   Ezblast Posted on Friday, September 30, 2011 - 02:56 pm:        LOL - like mine? EZ   Gearheaderiko Posted on Friday, September 30, 2011 - 03:20 pm:        Uh, nothing compares to yours   Crackhead Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 09:42 am:        check the bolt hole threads, I am wondering if the hole is over sized and allowing the bolt to move around in the hole. This might create a shear point causing the head to snap off.   Spade115 Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 01:55 am:        My front motor mount sheared in half. Is there a better replacement for it?   Gearheaderiko Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2012 - 02:30 am:        Which mount, which part?

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