Author |
Message |
Rick_a
| Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 09:24 am: |
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How many here actually do the full 10K service interval as laid out in the service manual? It's a fairly grueling job, there are often multiple other things to take care of (brakes, forks seals, tires, oil leaks, and chain and sprockets in my case). Seems like every time I'm at that point, I drag it out over a longer period of time. Everything but getting to the swingarm bearings is no biggie. I'm really starting to hate doing it. The steering head bearings are no big deal as the forks are usually leaking anyway, the lower bearings are often covered in dirt, and the upper bearings/race take a pretty good beating. So, who else removes their swingarm and front end at every 10K interval? |
Langperf
| Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 09:55 am: |
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Not me. It is a grueling job. A good 8 hours if your humping and you have all the tools, a bike lift, and you do everything right, cleaning threads, antiseizing, loctiteing everything, torqueing everything etc. But then mine has only seen the rain and a hose one time since it was new. I just use a detail spray, polish, wax etc. And it's garage kept. Water mixed with grit during a rain ride is brutal from a corrosion and wear standpoint. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 12:12 pm: |
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IMHO, it is more important to adjust the primary chain and drive belt correctly ... A little DOT-3 brake fluid on the fork seals ... Re-pack the wheel bearings and do not over tighten the wheel axles ... Re-placing the intake seals ... Lubing the throttle cables and clutch cable ... Lubing the control levers and shift/brake linkage ... Setting the timing correctly ... Re-moving the GRENADE PLATE from the clutch ... |
Langperf
| Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 02:18 pm: |
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Interesting tip on the fork seals... I armor all the crap out of mine every season and am still on the original set...not leaking yet |
Blake
| Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 12:18 am: |
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I've never lubed the swingarm bearings except for when I replaced the isolators. That requirement seem ridiculous to me. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 01:05 pm: |
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IMHO, if the FACTORY would put enough GREASE in the BEARINGS ie: wheel, triple tree, and swing arm the would go one hundred thousand miles !!! WHAT HAPPENED TO GREASE FITTINGS ??? |
Kalali
| Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 01:16 pm: |
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"A little DOT-3 brake fluid on the fork seals .." You mean clean the seals surrounds with BF, i.e., Q-tip soaked with BF and rubbed on the seal? |
Ajgerdes
| Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 10:04 pm: |
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ummmmm.......... why remove the spring plate from the clutch? I just put a new clutch in my bike and the HD parts guy told me to leave it in there. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 10:53 pm: |
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AJ, there's a reason they call it the "grenade plate"........ |
Rick_a
| Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 12:19 am: |
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Well, the sand here F's up fork seals regardless, especially when your forks have no dust seal. The front end always comes off on mine. That lower dust shield collects all kinds of dirt under the bearing. A seal of some sort was going to be devised, but I decided to just get it back together. I've been using a rubber plug in the steering stem to prevent dirt intrusion from the fork lock hole. The top of the lower bearing used to always have a heap of sand on top of it. For the first time I skipped the swingarm bearings. It'll be a 20K job for now on. I did take the isolator bolts out to find the screw that tensions the swingarm bearings completely undone, so that ended up working out. The pinch bolts hold things together, but that would've been one of those unknown maddening rattles. Packing sealed wheel bearings is something I won't bother with. There's cheap alternatives that outlast the grossly over-priced factory offerings by a large margin. |
Ajgerdes
| Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 05:15 am: |
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So should i take my clutch back apart and take out the spring plate? what do i replace it with? |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 06:08 am: |
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2 steel plates and 1 friction plate. when it's done, you'll probably notice that the clutch engages a bit more abruptly (i noticed) so that's the downside. The upside is you eliminate a well known "weak link" from possibly grenading and destroying more expensive parts in your primary/tranny. "the HD parts guy told me"... ignore that guy. (Message edited by pkforbes87 on April 05, 2011) |
Buellistic
| Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 11:14 am: |
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CLUTCH PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... Never ask a H-D PARTS PERSON or technician on any thing that is not in the PARTS BOOK or FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL because the do not have a "CLUE" !!! |
Ajgerdes
| Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 11:57 am: |
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Sweet guess i will take my clutch back apart while i have my kooks welded back together |
Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 03:36 pm: |
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Please explain the DOT 3 on fork seals. Can I use DOT 4? |
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