| Author | Message | ||
     Mac_inger |
So the threads of the oil drain are stripped. Not the plug, the case threads themselves. Either i did it last time i changed oil or the dealership, i have no idea. I dont remember ever wrestling with that plug. Anyway,..there must be other morons like me out there that have had this happened. what now ? | ||
| Mac_inger |
Could it be as simple as just helicoiling the thing ? | ||
| Dannybuell |
yes helicoil it. My S1 transmission oil drain was stripped by a shop after a clutch job 50K miles ago. I heli-coiled it and no problems, the threads haven't galled a bit with 50 trans fluid changes since then. | ||
| Mac_inger |
Beautiful. How about the metal shavings,...any tips and tricks there ? | ||
| Indy_bueller |
Any metal shavings should stay at the bottom of the pan. Besides, the plug itself is magnified if I remember correct. | ||
| Dannybuell |
IDK. vacuum and pour the old stuff through a couple of times before putting in new and starting. | ||
| Green1 |
Fill the flutes of the helicoil tap with grease,any metal shavings stick to it when cutting and like others have said pour the old oil back through when done to wash anything missed out (Message edited by green1 on April 03, 2011) (Message edited by green1 on April 03, 2011) | ||
| Mac_inger |
Got it. Thanks guys. Anybody know by any chance what the size/thread pitch of the plug is ? | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Do you use a torque wrench to tighten the plug? just curious if it's still possible to strip it using a torque wrench. | ||
| Mac_inger |
It didn't strip because of torque. It crossthreaded. But to answer the question, sometimes have used a torque wrench, sometimes by hand, but im always pretty light on that plug. | ||
| Azxb9r |
Put some grease on the drill and tap before you run them in. The grease will catch most of the filings. Once the heli-coil is in, pour some oil through it before putting the plug back in. That should rinse out anything that is left. | ||
| Azxb9r |
just curious if it's still possible to strip it using a torque wrench. Yes it is still possible. The torque spec is for dry threads, when you change your oil the threads have oil on them. The oil makes the plug easier to turn which allows more clamping force for a given torque, which can pull the threads out. | ||
| Dannybuell |
cross threaded or galled? sounds like an air wrench. | ||
| Mac_inger |
Danny,...english is a second language for me. Whats galled ? Ill see if its possible to take a picture | ||
| Usanigel |
Crossed threaded is one thread cut over another, normally at an angle. Another cause of this condition is thread “galling” or seizing. This occurs when the surfaces of the mating parts are very abrasive. Galling occurs only on metallic fasteners, and is more likely to occur when the external threads are cut, rather than rolled. Cut threads have rougher surfaces because of the machining process. Galling can also result from surface oxidation in some materials. When the parts are engaged, microscopic particles break loose from the roughened surfaces and lodge between the mating parts. This results in mated parts “sticking” together and is responsible for “galling”. Thread galling can become severe enough that the mating parts seize, making it virtually impossible to separate them. | ||
| Mac_inger |
Thanks for the detailed description. Now i know all there is to know about galling  Its crossthreading in my case. Actually the plug was cutting strips of metal as it was coming out. Looked like fingernail clippings of metal. | ||
| Usanigel |
If the plug was at angle coming out then yes cross threaded. If you think of the threads as a row of mountain peaks, over tightening with shear them off and they will look just as you have found. Helicoil is the way to fix this. Often installed during manufacture to protect the case from excess wear. Some machines last for years and have the oil changed often and the alloy does not last and wears out. But it costs more...so it does not happen till it breaks. You just need to be careful to follow the old threads level and square with the tap for the coil size, then install the coil. Read up on doing it first. You could use an expanding rubber bung from the auto store till you're ready to do this repair. | ||
| Tpoppa |
I would use a Time Sert instead of a heli coil. Time Serts are less likely to leak. I used one to fix stripped spark plug threads on an XB. The kits aren't cheap but they work well. | ||
| Jaimec |
Off topic and just an observation but... you seem to communicate in English better than some who were born to it. Just sayin' | ||
| Crowley |
Like tpoppa says, I'd go with a Timesert. On the Helicoils I've used in the past, there's a tang that needs to be broken off after insertion. | ||
| Dannybuell |
my understanding of galled in this case: the threads have an angle or pitch to them when over torqued the threads will begin to change pitch/pull out. at this point they no longer have a good fit and will eventually fail. | ||
| Buellerandy |
More teflon! Sorry, for those that remember that period of time on badweb, I couldnt resist. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Time serts = Keen serts ( that's what us oldtimers call 'em) McMaster Carr has 'em http://www.mcmaster.com/#thread-repair-inserts/=bq ca5d in the link ...pic on left is Heli-coil, picture in center in time-sert/keen-sert, picture on right -is an insert used in plastic molded parts good luck! (Message edited by nuts4mc on April 04, 2011) | ||
| Mac_inger |
Thank you all. Learned two things i didn't know. Time Serts (will get these) and expanding rubber bungs (didn't even know these existed). Usnigel, i have helicoiled before (footpegs on my KLR) so i think i can handle it. Jaimec, sometimes i won't know a word or expression, or i know one meaning but don't know another. I learned about "liar pants on fire" when i was 27 and kept repeating it very enthusiastically at work. Got some weird looks on that but i was having a ball saying it all day. Buellrandy, share the teflon joke... cheers all |
