| Author | Message | ||
     Essjay |
thanks for the info, I still need to pick up a code reader, it's on my shopping list. | ||
| Kodas |
There's no need for a code reader. First the observe the "check engine lamp", the red warning light on the tach next to the low fuel lamp. Flip the ignition on and watch the light. It should light up and then turn off after four seconds which means the ECM detects nothing amiss. If it stays on there is a current trouble code. If it turns off after about eight seconds there's a functional error (ECM 53-55 or Cam timing 56 codes). To check for a current trouble code you need to jump pins 1 and 2 of the data link connector. The four pin connector is located on the right side of the steering head near the fork lock. Its light in color and has a dark protective cap. You may have to a search around a bit but its the only loose connector down that direction. Once you have the pins jumped turn on the ignition (don't start the bike) and look at the check engine light. If it flashes fast (3 blinks a second) continuously there are no codes detected. If you see a three second fast pulse then a one second blink followed by series of one second blinks you have errors. Count the 1 second blinks. Each digit is separated by a two second pause. Each two digit code is follow by an fast flashing intermission. Let us know what you find. I'll look around for a link that lists all the codes... | ||
| Kodas |
Finally found it. Here's a link for the ECM trouble codes. Nice instructions too. | ||
| Essjay |
Well, what I got is code 11 which is the TPS. So I suppose I need to take it to a dealer for calibration. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. The bike I bought used and it has a race ecm and Force intake, there is a good chance that the TPS was not properly recalibrated when those were installed. Can the TPS get out of calibration on it's own? Shane | ||
| Kodas |
Changing the ECM requires a TPS calibration but a code 11 suggests the sensor is not sending a signal voltage within an acceptable range. The output should be .5-1.5V closed and 3.9-4.9 open. Check the ECM harness connector for backed out terminals, broken tab locks or basically a bad connection. That's straight from the manual. Do a wiggle test on the harness and monitor the TPS sensor with a volt meter. Also, see if the the TPS sensor voltage scales when varying the throttle from closed to open. As the throttle is slowly opened the voltage should climb gradually past 4 volts without any spikes or low voltages. If the TPS sensor needs to be replaced, you'll definitely need to have it to re-calibrated. Read somewhere it shouldn't take more than half an hour of labor cost at a dealer. | ||
| Essjay |
Ok, I will try that and let you know what I come up with. Does the engine need to be running or just ignition on? Shane | ||
| Kodas |
Ignition switch on. Engine not running. Good luck! | ||
| Lee |
Fellas, Has anyone tried mounting XB headlight assembly to say an X1? If so, how much of a pain was it? Can it be done? Well I suppose anything CAN be done, but you know what I mean......... Any info greatly appreciated! Lee | ||
| Lee |
Ooops, sorry for the above...wrong section. I'll post it where it should be! | ||
| Essjay |
I figured out I was counting the intermission flashes, not a trouble code. There is no trouble code stored. So back to the question- why would my bike run rough until hot? It is like a carburated bike with the enrichener pushed in too soon, except that it is only rough under acceleration and it disapears when the engine is hot. Bike again is a '99 S3T with race ecm, force air and VH slipon. Any ideas? Shane | ||
| Kodas |
Its not unusual for the ECM to not detect a faulty sensor. Check the O2 as mentioned. The ET or IAT sensor could be on its way out. Also, find out if the TPS was calibrated when the new race ECM was installed. This is critical. The bike will run very poorly/unpredictabley without calibration. If your not sure, have it calibrated or if you have the original ECM used on the bike, put it back in and see how she runs. I run a VH exhaust with a standard ECM and it runs well except at around 3200rpm where it leans out for a bit. Thinking about adding a Power Commander to smooth it out. Don't know how the race ECM would respond to the VH exhaust... | ||
| Stubby |
Anybody know on a M2 whether it is coil or ignition module or spark plug foul up when, after spirited riding, and hitting the rev limiter a couple of times I lost a cylinder on the way home today? T'ain't gas, as I can smell that. I suppose it could be a spark plug gone bad, or the coil or the ignition module. Suggestions as to where to start trouble shooting this? thanks, Stubb. | ||
| Kodas |
Start with the obvious. Check for a spark on that cylinder, inspect the plug. If you're getting a spark and the plug is not fouled, do a compression check if you have a gauge handy. Oh yeah, check the warning light for trouble codes. | ||
| Stubby |
thanks. Man, I checked everything. Turned out to be the plug wire to the rear cylinder had rubbed through and was shorting out at that little clamp near the choke plunger. Both plugs read a little dark, but not black, which indicates pretty good combustion. Thinking of rejetting to a 185 main and 45 pilot as per the general advice hereabouts and adjusting for altitude. But not so sure now with the plugs like that... Oh yeah. Gotta get new plug wires. I wonder whether I should replace that little padded part which forms a tunnel for the plug wire to travel through. If so, should I get a direct replacement, or just use a zip tie? Thanks for your advice. Thanks. Stubb edited by stubby on September 28, 2003 | ||
| Mising69 |
I saw a post on here a couple years back about a Buell turning off(?) at around 75-80 mph. Now mine is doing the same thing. It is not RPM related, because I can redline it in every gear, at least until I hit 75-80. Every time I hit 75-80 MPH my bike dies, but will start right back up after about a minute, usually when I slow down or stop. It does it hot and cold, acceleration(fast, or slow and steady) style doesnt make a difference either. The only mod Ive done is a re-jet and a K&N w/o the airbox, but these were done over 2 years ago. Any help or advice is appreciated. Thanks, Mike edited by mising69 on September 30, 2003 edited by mising69 on September 30, 2003 | ||
| Kodas |
The only similar thing I've heard of is an intermittent ignition switch. Do you lose your headlight and instrument lights when the bike stops? | ||
| Mising69 |
I dont think so, but its usually daytime when I ride so I may not have noticed. Is it the actual switch where the key goes or something else. Wont hurt to take a look see. Thanks | ||
| Kodas |
Best guess with limited info supplied. You haven't noticed if the oil , neutral and or warning light were lit after the engine died? | ||
| Mising69 |
No, I'm pretty sure they weren't lit, I think I would have noticed, Maybe I might have been too torqued off at the time to notice though..I'll take her out again when I get a chance and check it out. It just bugs me, I can ride all day, just as long as I dont go too fast, but thats no fun, besides I'm going to sell her, and dont want to pass any gremlins along to the next guy/gal.. | ||
| Kodas |
Another guess, and a much more common failure is the kick-stand switch. Maybe the bike bounces just so at speed and causes the sidestand to move a little. This will kill the engine nicely. Will the bike start right away or do you have to wait? | ||
| 99x1 |
"... turning off(?) at around 75-80 mph." When it dies, does the tach still read RPM? (If the problem is fuel related rather then electrical, the tach will continue to read). If you pull the choke (enrichener) on does it make any difference? (If the float is sticking, not enough fuel flowing, bowl vent partially plugged, cv diaphragm torn, vacuum piston not lifting slide cleanly, gummed up in jets/vents) Good Luck! | ||
| 57sporty |
Aaron and others, Just purchased a 02 X1 with Force pipe, Force sidewinder, carbon fiber stuff everywhere with PM wheels. A sweet bike. It was a demo bike at a Bumpus HD that was tricked out with all kinds of goodies with only 1340 miles. I sold my 88" Sportster and now have joined the Buell crowd. My question is this: The dealer said I needed to install a race ECM. I pulled the seat and found a race only use labeled ECM with the following numbers on it: 672-4 Is this the right ECM or is it a stock unit? I am puzzled about this. The bike had been siting for a while and only taken on brief test rides. I am experiencing some rough running around 3-3500 rpms and noticed that the rpms cut out at about 5800 rpms. Your help will be greatly appreciated. Steve Summertown, TN | ||
| Used_96_s1 |
saw a post on here a couple years back about a Buell turning off(?) at around 75-80 mph. Now mine is doing the same thing. It is not RPM related, because I can redline it in every gear, at least until I hit 75-80. Every time I hit 75-80 MPH my bike dies, but will start right back up after about a minute, usually when I slow down or stop. It does it hot and cold, acceleration(fast, or slow and steady) style doesnt make a difference either. The only mod Ive done is a re-jet and a K&N w/o the airbox, but these were done over 2 years ago. Any help or advice is appreciated. Thanks, Mike I've had two similar incidents on a truck and a dirt bike. My boss had a similar on his dirt bike; Fuel flow? Demand would be highest at high speed. Perhaps a partial obstruction in the fuel line? Don't forget to check for an obstruction in the carb (that's where my bosses was). Good luck! edited by used_96_s1 on October 03, 2003 | ||
| 02buells3t |
Just a follow up on the ignition switch for the Buell S3T (and others) for the archive. The part number to order the ignition switch only (instead of the entire lock set) is 31652-95Y. This part cannot be ordered by the dealer via computer, it MUST be ordered manually on a "Restricted Parts Order Form". The dealer will need the four digit number for your existing key to match the lock with your original key set. As a bonus, it comes with two new keys. Price is about $32. If the local dealers don't want to help (after all, the parts guys would need to actually do some paperwork, as opposed to just point & click on the computer) give Modesto Buell in California a call. They have ordered these switches before (it's where I got mine). Their number is (209)578-1330. Also note, that the ignition switch is the same as the one on a HD FXD, so the HD dealers should be able to get it too, although it may be under a different part number. | ||
| Sparky |
Torquemaster spark plugs apparently has gone out of business. The owner Maury has retired and there is no forwarding address that I can discern at this time. What a shame. I'm hoping their claim of 100,000 mile durability is not just smoke. I've got 37k on my S1 & 31k on my TBolt and both are running strong. Bummer about the future for his revolutionary product. In previous talks he had faint praise for Bosch's 4-prong intrepretation of his design. I guess this is a good thing going forward but I have no experience with the Bosch. Anybody got anything good to say about either of these similar plugs? | ||
| Lugginjugs |
Looking to make a test harness according to the good blue book. Having never worked with deutsch connectors is there anything special about the assembly (I know a crimper exists) or can it be a home done job. I didn't want to destroy the $6 dollars in parts in a DIY melee. | ||
| Opto |
Kodas, I read the FM for 2004 Lightning models, it says that if the ecm is changed then a tps reset is neccessary. I am wondering why, since the tps appears to be a potentiometer and the only reason for a reset is if different ecm's put out different reference voltages i.e. 5v plus or minus 0.25V. This cannot be the full picture, can you expand on this? Or point me in a direction for more reading? | ||
| Opto |
Lugginjugs, all you need to know should be in the FM, nothing special about them, they work well and can be pulled apart and reassembled with good reliability. Just don't force anything. Ask a more specific question and I may do better. | ||
| Opto |
OK, sorry Kodas and everyone else here, rule #1, search the archives! I jumped the gun... | ||
| Jsunstar |
VOES HELP NEEDED! anyone know where the voes plugs into on a 95 s2? i just realized theres no voes on my bike and so i got one at the stealer to put on. my book doesnt show the place where it goes into the wiring harness and the plug doesnt match anything under there. ive been doing some reading on the voes and havent come up with any facts for or againnst needing one... if i understand what it does, i would need one for better performance. the carb vacuum hole is simply plugged and theres no voes... weird... you gotta watch what you buy used. i have a dyna 2000 ignition and a mikuni 42 carb if it matters... why do you think it was taken off? any help will further the cause of knowlege! thanks jason pburgh, pa |
