Author |
Message |
Smokey3644
| Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 - 02:24 pm: |
|
Does anyone have a Uly parts book handy? What is the part number for the torx 27 fasteners for the front fender? I mostly stripped one getting the front fender off to install a new tire, they use red loctite at the factory and I had to apply a lot of force to break the @#***%# bolt loose. Is there somewhere besides Harley that might have them? |
Itileman
| Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 - 07:01 pm: |
|
Do yourself a favor and replace them with stainless allen heads. I have gotten rid of most of the POS torx heads on my Uly. |
Nipsey
| Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 - 08:09 pm: |
|
amen to that - 1/4 x 20 by however long saves you much frustration |
Teeps
| Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 - 08:24 pm: |
|
THIS PN: AA0406.11CXVB FASTENS THE FENDER TO THE FENDER LOWER. THIS PN: CA0012.02A8 FASTENS THE FENDER LOWER TO THE FORK. I've not stripped a single fastener, Torx or otherwise, on my Uly. I learned long ago to use professional grade Torx-bits, like Snap-On or Matco. Also a small dab of valve lapping compound on the bit really increases the bite. (Message edited by teeps on March 22, 2011) |
Itileman
| Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 - 09:23 pm: |
|
I've never stripped a stainless steel allen head. My professional grade tools cut tile and wood and pound nails. I have fairly high grade torx bits and drive torx head screws by the 25# box, not stripping a single one of them. The quality of those on the Uly sux. YMMV |
Smokey3644
| Posted on Saturday, March 26, 2011 - 10:51 pm: |
|
Thanks for all the response. Stainless allen head it will be, as soon as I can find some in my little one horse town. |
Itileman
| Posted on Saturday, March 26, 2011 - 11:43 pm: |
|
Get mine from the local Ace Hardware store. |
Dfishman
| Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 01:17 pm: |
|
I get mine on the ground at the local boatyard.They are used on zincs.I am a cheap bastard that can't ever pass up free stuff. |
Jasonb
| Posted on Monday, March 28, 2011 - 10:35 pm: |
|
I took most bolts out of my Uly this winter and put Anti-Seiz on all bolts that go into aluminum. Haven't stripped one (yet). I also use good tools too. My dad taught me that. I'm with Itileman, I get my stainless bolts at ACE or Sears Hardware. |
Smokey3644
| Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 02:44 pm: |
|
Tile guy, if I remember right your in Billings, a friend of mine told me there's a place that sells all kinds of fasteners, for almost every vehicle known but he couldn't remember the name do you know what he's talking about? The Ace here just has ugly black no stainless. |
Midnight_rider
| Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 03:38 pm: |
|
fastenal store |
Itileman
| Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 07:16 pm: |
|
Bummer. The Ace here not only carries all the stainless, they have them in chrome too. Oh, have I mentioned that this is a Harley town? If you run into a bind, email me your shopping list and I'll see what I can get. |
Stevem123
| Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 10:50 pm: |
|
I'm probably going to piss some people off by saying this but it bothers me that people trash the torx screws that are well designed for the application of holding body panels on. First of all these are shoulder screws designed to hold the plastic body panels firmly without mashing the plastic flat (deforming them). The shoulder is bigger diameter than the threads and the holes in the panels are made to allow the shoulder to pass through the panel and bottom against the metal bracket behind the panel. The shoulder is just thick enough to allow sufficient clamping force between the head of the screw and the plastic panel to the bracket. If you are stripping out the flutes of the screws then you are monkey-fisting the wrench and not applying pure rotational force to the screw and or not using the tool square to the screw. Yes a little extra care should be taken with the application of the forces mentioned above but I have never stripped out a torx screw and I NEVER use locktight nor have I ever had one fall out. Period. Using a non shouldered screw is just smashing the plastic and deforming it as well as the fact the hole in the plastic is much larger than the threads thus allowing the panel to be out of alignment. You also must be using copious amounts of locktight to keep the non OEM screws from loosening and falling out. Either way it's just wrong..... But hey, it's YOUR bike! |
Itileman
| Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 11:58 pm: |
|
I know how to operate a wrench on a torx screw. Some of the torx screws on my Uly were not right in the head to start with. I use washers, often use rubber or nylon washers along with them & don't over tighten. I use some locktight and often use antisieze for ss to aluminum. No problems in 16k miles and a lot of those are off the tarvy. IMHO, the torx screws on my 09 are/were largely crap. YMMV, but, yes, it is MY bike. |
Stevem123
| Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 09:49 pm: |
|
Yes my mileage does vary a lot more than yours. 49K on my Uly, 51K on my 01 S3T, and about 35K on a Road glide I sold over a year ago. All these miles in varying conditions and roads. I've been turning wrenches for about 35 years. No need for a flame suit here so don't wear out your throwing arm just yet. Just friendly advice from the old-fart club. Agreed that the button-head torx screws can be stripped much easier than a standard allen head. But my point is that they are well designed for the purpose and with a little "finesse", they will provide great service as entended. |
Itileman
| Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 10:07 pm: |
|
I have no problems with your opinions on the matter. It's good to hear another point of view. Our mileage varies, but that's no big deal. Readers of this thread can make up their minds for themselves. Ride safe. |