Author |
Message |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 08:09 pm: |
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Well, I've been noticing a good layer of schmutz collecting on the front of the cases, behind the oil filter, nowhere near the base gasket. So the other day (Monday, I think) I hosed it off with about half a can of brakleen. Presto! Bare aluminum again. Rode it probably 100 miles or so since then...and this is as-parked in the garage right now:
Its definitely oil. And its definitely coming from the case-half joint. Is there a proven way to fix this, withOUT splitting the cases? Grrrrr..... |
Bartimus
| Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 08:56 pm: |
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Yea, don't take the caked on dirt off! Just get out and ride... |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 09:52 pm: |
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Allow the oil to form a uniform coating over the entire underside of the case. I also find it helps to allow the rocker boxes to leak. Oh! fix? nevermind.
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Essmjay
| Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 10:12 pm: |
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I agree, don't worry unless it is pouring out. Otherwise, just monitor it to see if it gets worse. |
Onahog
| Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 10:15 pm: |
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Joe... is it more of a hot oil sweat than an actual leak? Most of em do to a certain point.. Case 1/2s, cyl.bases,rocker boxes,primary covers..etc... I think they call it machining tolerances at the HD factory...Hb |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 02:40 am: |
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I'd check the torque on all the bolts holding the case halves together, then go for a ride. If for any reason you have the engine pulled and cases split any time in the near future, put them back together with Yamabond. |
Kalali
| Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 12:28 pm: |
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"I think they call it machining tolerances at the HD factory." You can actually see the sides are not flush. I have run my finger along the joint around the case where ever possible and there are only a few spots where the sides are flush. I'm just surprised it is not leaking as much as the tolerances suggest. Fortunately mine is black so it doesn't show the seepage. How deep is the edge of the case? Never seen one split open. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 08:02 pm: |
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The wall thickness is maybe 3/8", IIRC. I do need to check torque on the case bolts, I'll do that this weekend. I was considering working on the bike anyway, but...I don't think what I want to do is going to happen with the parts I have. I want to lower the gearing just a hair (raise RPM for a given MPH), just to get the illusion of a little more grunt (and limit my top end some, since self control is right out the window these days). I have a spare 55T sprocket. Parts book says stock is a 61T. If I put the 55T on...it'll *drop* my RPMs, right? ...and yes...I CAN hijack my own thread! |
Onahog
| Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 09:30 pm: |
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Joe... Smaller rear pulley, less RPM, higher top end speed Smaller front pulley,higher rpm,less top end, more hole shot grunt.. 883 sportys have a smaller front pullet than a 1200...Hb |
Midnight_rider
| Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 11:22 pm: |
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old dirtbike rule was every 4 teeth on rear sprocket was the same as 1 on front sprocket no madder if you go up on rear teeth or down on rear teeth 55 would be alot of top end speed |
The4ork
| Posted on Wednesday, March 23, 2011 - 08:56 pm: |
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hijack: what options are there as far as front pullys go? i think the s1 has a stock 27T pulley right? |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Thursday, March 24, 2011 - 12:04 pm: |
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Rat, My S1W is doing the same thing. I have yet to try it, but I have been told high temp silicone along the case seam will seal the deal. For now I just clean it with brake cleaner when it get's too dirty. One of these days I will try the high temp silicone route. |
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