| Author | Message | ||
     Crowley |
After my 5th set of seals failed yesterday on my '08 (some fitted under Warranty incl an assembled RevB cover, and the last set fitted by myself), I really want to have a summer riding this fantastic bike - missed the last two with failed waterpump etc, etc.Oberon Engineering in the UK are already designing a slave cylinder for the Helicon but these will be an indeterminate time until production. Consequently I'm going to try a cable operated system until the new slave cyl is on the market. What I'm after is a damaged beyond further use clutch cover (A or B) so that I can Tig a pivot onto the cover for a lever that will screw into the 7mm sperical nut. The other end of this lever will the connect to a cable. If anyone has a trashed cover that I can use, then I'd be extremely grateful to take it out of you scrap bin. Of course any postal charges/expenses (to the UK) will be fully covered by me. Thanks Chaps  | ||
| Jdugger |
Do you think you will have sufficient leverage? The clutch pull is pretty stiff... | ||
| Geforce |
Have you sent Erik Buell Racing a detailed email to see if there's anything parts wise they can do to help? I hope you can resolve this issue and enjoy your bike. You might also want to look for a spring operated grip strength trainer for your left hand if you get this to work. Good luck! | ||
| Crowley |
I mocked up up a lever this afternoon using the lip of the cover as a pivot. To get about 4mm pull on the release pin, it to a hard, but manageable, tug on the lever. I do rock climb as a hobby and often carry a Tennis ball in my pocket to give a forearms a 'working'  | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Maybe fit an old Panhead foot clutch? Keep it HD anyway! | ||
| Bassettkyle |
I was able to source the clutch weep fix parts from our friends at ebracing. Is this a different issue? Rather give my money to them anyway... | ||
| Pmjolly |
Crowley, I have a revision 'A' cover you can have if you want it. It's all yours for the cost of prepaid shipping. The threads are damaged on the bleeder screw, so it will not work for the normal hydraulic set up. It seeps. Air gets in, and fluid gets out. I removed the decal to put on my new revision 'B' cover. Other than that, it is in good shape. Let me know if you want it. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Interested to see where this goes. I'd like to have a cable clutch as well. | ||
| Aj2010 |
Ok you people are scaring me. I am currently working on stuffing a Ducati motor into an 1125 frame (project bike #2) and since I am going with the Buell belt drive the slave cylinder is going to have to move from the left side to the right side to make room for the drive pulley/cush drive. I was planning on adapting the latest and greatest revision of the 1125 slave cylinder. I am amazed that they can build a bike like the 1125 but can't manage to engineer a reliable slave cylinder  | ||
| Jdugger |
> I am currently working on stuffing a Ducati motor into an 1125 frame Wow. I really want to hear more about this, because it's not going to be an easy job. The motor *is* half the frame on these bikes. And, the Ducati L-Twin will be a tight fit. Sounds like a fun, and very challenging, project. | ||
| Jdugger |
... you know, the more I think about this, the more impossible it sounds. The swing arm pivot on the 1125r is part of the motor's castings. The upper chassis (fuel tank) and lower (swing arm) aren't connected, actually. You would somehow have to fabricate that into the adaptation you did to mount the Ducati mill into the 1125r chassis. (Message edited by jdugger on March 15, 2011) | ||
| Aj2010 |
Like the 1125, the ducati swing arm pivots in the cases. That would be easy, but of course I am adapting an XB swing arm to fit the duc cases because I just don't seem to ever take the easy way (sigh). The cases have already been trimmed down on both sides and the left hand rear mount on the frame has been shaved down a bit too. The cases are currently bolted into the frame as I continue to measure and align things. SORRY didn't intend to hijack your thread. | ||
| Crowley |
Pmjolly, you're a proper Gent. The A type case would be great, the condition is unimportant since I'm going to cut it anyway and weld on to it. If you'd like to PM me with you're details (would PayPal be convenient for you?) and how much you want for its delivery, I'll be glad to oblige. Once again, thanks very much  | ||
| Crowley |
Aj2010, I'm curious as to why you're putting a Duc motor into the 1125. I too have a couple of Ducatis, but I think the Helicon motor (except for the clutch slave cyl  ) is a MUCH better motor than the 1098. I'm sure you have your reasons and will do a good job, but can't see why. | ||
| Froggy |
They are reliable. I got one bike at 12,000 miles without a leak, then my other leaked very early, had the fix done and 9000 miles later no further leaks. I suspect Crowley has some other issue, he keeps treating the symptoms and not the actual problem. | ||
| 1_mike |
I mentioned a cable clutch actuator over a year ago. The cable (done right..!) has a much better "feel" to it. How do I know - I've did a conversion to a Yamaha FZR1000 and did the conversion using TL parts to my Suzuki TLR1000 years ago. PM sent Mike (Message edited by 1_mike on March 15, 2011) | ||
| Aj2010 |
Crowley the motor going in is not liquid cooled, although it is being built on deep sump cases (yeah more adapting). I am quite happy with my 1125R and anticipate being even happier once the charging, cooling and exhaust systems have all been dealt with (all underway). Project 2 is about building a light weight real world fun bike. I do not need it to be capable of the R's stratospheric top speed (my jacket and shoulders are getting thrashed at those speeds anyway LOL) I am going with the CR's final gearing in order to get a little more low end grunt from a less powerful (and lighter) motor. If it ends up going a little further on a litre of fuel, so much the better. It seems to work better for me to think of this as an improved XB rather then a downgraded 1125 (more suspension travel, smoother riding, greater ground clearance and hopefully still end up looking like a sport bike.  | ||
| Zac4mac |
Loretta's clutch dribbled very slowly for 2 years. I topped the res 2 or 3 times, total. I got "The Fix" at ~18k, a year ago. No leaks since, 26k miles now. Z | ||
| Crowley |
Froggy, my A cover failed several times, and I've had a Rev B cover (with sleeve inserted when delivered) fitted at a Dealer under Warranty. When I fitted the new seal, everything was surgically clean - as verified by Mrs Adam who's a joint Specialist Consultant at the local hospital However, I hear what you're saying and I've thought that my self but can't find a problem - in fact, all the moving parts and surfaces have been replaced. I even disabled the vacuum pipe last time to see if that was causing a problem, and it still leaked. I'm at a complete loss, as is my very supportive Dealer, as to know what? | ||
| Zac4mac |
When I got "The Fix", they replaced the cover with a RevB then added the X2086.1AM kit. No leaks since for me, you sure your dealer installed the whole kit and not just o-rings? | ||
| Froggy |
The cover itself has nothing to do with the leaking, unless the cover was somehow damaged like Pmjolly's. I do understand its frustrating, and I wish there was something I could do to help you figure out what keeps making it leak. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Zac4mac is correct. I have read here that you need the kit with the cover. Ftroggy my dealer LatusHD said the cover had been beefed up when they did kit and cover. several thousand miles since and no problems. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
A liquid expands when heated - the clutch hydraulic line is very close to various heat sources (radiator, exhaust, engine)...IF you keep the reservoir up on the handle bar full to the tippy top - the heat from the engine will most likely cause the fluid to expand - the seals on the reservoir are much more substantial (cast cover/hard plastic backing plate/bellows and two screws) than the single lipped seals on the slave cylinder's piston - the seals on the piston cannot be too "strong" as they may cause "stiction" and negate the action of the vacuum assist/slipper clutch. The Rev A design (hard anodized piston( grey)/soft aluminum cylinder(silver) was not very good - the piston "wobbles" in the bore and scores the cylinder- the metal from the scoring interferes with the seal's designed purpose AND the scoring allows "gaps" in the cylinder that the seal wasn't designed to provide....liquid weeps out Rev B is much better as the slave cylinder is hard anodized (grey) and the piston is aluminum (silver) - if the piston wobbles in the bore the cylinder doesn't get scored and the seals do their job. If you fill that reservoir to the tippy top and expect for those piston seals to stop the expanding fluid from weeping (like after a long ride) - you're get weeping fluid past the seals. Try lowering your liquid level in the reservoir (to half-full in the site glass) to allow it room to expand and contract. It may be easier than designing a better mouse trap | ||
| Crowley |
Thanks, I'll drop the fluid level so it won't start sucking air in the M/C and give it a spanking at the weekend. Worth a try  Last time I had it apart, the anodizing on the sleeve was perfect. The piston was unmarked too. While I'm here, and about to make a complete arse of myself, how do you pick up a PM on this site? Is there automatic notification somewhere?  | ||
| Nuts4mc |
PM = click on the person's "handle" in the thread - it takes you to their profile at the bottom is a "button" for PM- if they have assigned an email address to their profile ( not shown in your view) - the PM from you will notify their Email ===>Mr. Crow...go to "EDIT PROFILE" at the TOP of the forum to access your email details<=== good luck (Message edited by nuts4mc on March 15, 2011) | ||
| Crowley |
Thanks, can't seem to unhide my Email address, I was looking for a button that has a PM section on the site itself, like we have on UKBEG. | ||
| Bettybuell |
Last summer when I was in Erik Buell Racing I saw a prototype cable clutch cover. I wonder if they have some or offer a fix? | ||
| Pmjolly |
Crowley, I don't know if this will be possible. I just priced shipping through UPS, and it says it will cost 198 dollars to ship to your town. You could almost buy a new one for that! I weighed the cover. It is 1 pound, 2 1/4 ounces. I figured it would be 2 pounds with the box and filling material. I also figured the box as a 12 inch cube. I'm not sure how this all translates to your country's currency or the metric system. I just know it would be more than I would pay. Let me know if you know another way to do it. I will never use the cover. | ||
| Froggy |
$45 for a medium flat rate USPS box to the UK, but if you use first class mail it should run about $20 | ||
| Pmjolly |
OK, Monday afternoon, I will go by my post office with the cover, and see what they charge. They have already closed for the day. |
