Author |
Message |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 04:22 am: |
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Hello Friends, I have a friend with a 2007 Uly, we have had to change plenty of parts, what we haven't been able to solve is between 2500 and 3500, and specially on 3000 revs the bike is like jumping and we haven't been able to find the problem, changing the VR the bike run fine (heated the engine before the ride) for about 5 minutes ,and after that it returned to the problem. Any one has had this issue? any suggestions? Thanks |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 08:08 am: |
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My first guess would be check the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and ignition coil. Odd that it would occur only in that RPM range. Are you getting a check engine light? It would be a good idea to hook it up to a laptop with ECMspy and see if any fault codes are indicated. |
Gringo
| Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 09:08 am: |
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you guys know what ferrite beads are? they are used in electronics, near as possible to connectors to prevent "ringing". thats when the signals get in a harmonic state and begin to sort of transmit to their neighbors. with small voltages its a real problem. i put two ferrites on the connectors of my ECM and havent had the problem you describe since. i think i have less weird buell symptoms now, actually virtually none cept when i get bad fuel. there is still something like a flat spot somewhere up there but mostly i am super pleased with the result. check radio shack or whatever and try it out, wont cost you much. |
Rangeridn
| Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 09:09 am: |
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Is this a relatively low speed only event? |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 11:10 am: |
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It happens in every gear at that rev range, spark plugs are fine and coils are fine too. I'll have to make another recording while riding with the palm and see if another friend figures out some thing more. Many thanks for the input. |
Jadow
| Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 01:09 pm: |
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This is a tuff one. With your description of RPM, and the suggestion of Lifter, with no oil flowing out the exhaust No damage to the spark plug (Piston seems together) It is not uncommon for the rear exhaust valve to seize. The compression test will not show completely becasue the valve rest with spring pressure, but run it and the seised middle of the guide allows the rocker to hang behind. Piston to valve clearance can be stessed so I wouldn't run it much more at the RPM range that produces the noise. At this point try everyone's testing suggestions,Rotate remove rear head, take spring off push valve..it bet it won'tmove Easy fix and back on the road. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 02:16 pm: |
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Jadow- did you mean to reply to this thread?: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/617384.html?1298563966 Thanks for checking! |
Garrcano
| Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 03:48 pm: |
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Hi Gringo. Was it a specific type of ferrite? Iīve found some of them in a catalog, but I havenīt an idea which is appropriate. |
Ourdee
| Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 05:51 pm: |
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Gringo, Where are the pictures? I want to see. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 07:25 pm: |
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Stock exhaust? Run the actuator test for the exhaust valve. Sounds like that area in the rev band...when's the last time the exhaust cable was lubed? If it's not a stock exhaust...well, the missing valve can cause a hole in the powerband, depending on what program is in the ECM. Also reset the TPS - when the bike is HOT, mind you - and see if that helps. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 12:09 am: |
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The exhaust is an HP, it has a race ecm and a K&K air filter. Thanks for the replies. |
Uly_man
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 01:12 pm: |
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Pontlee77. First thing is that the race ECM map may not be a match for the HP can. It was mapped for the Buell race can. The bike should run smooth with the OEM can, ECM and a K&N air filter. Mine will and this is a very important thing to have before any engine/can mods are made on the bike. If it did not at that time then you should go back to that setup and fix the problems first. If you have changed the OEM map any then flash it back to the standard settings. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 02:54 pm: |
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Thanks Uly man, Yes the race ecm, sure didn't match the can but another friend after making some recordings of the rides, adjusted the race ecm to fit in better with this exhaust. The next step to do is to put my D&D on it and test the bike to see if it works better and those jumps disappear, from that test, I'll have some answers. Thanks to all for the great input and info, this is a great forum with really nice people. |
Uly_man
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 03:30 pm: |
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The next step to do is to put my D&D on it and test the bike to see if it works better and those jumps disappear, from that test, I'll have some answers. Pontlee77 you are not hearing what I have said on this issue. You are doing the classic "change em out" thing and not understanding what FI systems do and unlike the mech of a carb is very hard to define. Best of luck. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 03:43 pm: |
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Uly man, Before running the race ecm, K&N, and HP exhaust there was no such problem. So my other friend is working on making new fuel maps to adjust it to that specific exhaust. He is quite skilled with ecmspy, after all his X1 runs like a champ and believe me he has a lot of upgrades, and all the mapping he did to adjust it to as close as possible to perfect. I apreciate your information. I'll speak with my friend and explain both sides, so he can decide. Thank you. |
Etennuly
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 07:53 pm: |
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Check the wiring harness under the air box cover. Some of the '06 problems were fixed for '07, but it is easy to look. Check where the ETS and O2 sensor wires cross for wear through, check FI wires where they cross over the Breather hose. Check the coil wires to see if they are cracked or melted and the plug wires to see if they are on tightly. Check the o2 sensor wire for melting against the head. Check the "77" connector and all of the wire bundles in there, and the wires for the VR that go under the engine around the muffler bracket(I have fixed two bikes that had your symptoms with this fix), also check the wires to the cam sensor(yes.....these were all failed areas on my bike at one time or another). |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 11:43 pm: |
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Etennuly, as my friends bike broke the shaft of the TB while i was installing a used one i had and as the rocker boxes were sweating oil, i took the rocker box top off and put some silicone to stop that, and while doing that i checked all the cables, all were cleaned and checked and i used some zip ties to keep the out of the heads, the VR was changed and we put the up grade for the 77 connector, the O2 is working fine (actually mine is dead and i was having some very small jumps between 2 and 3k revs) Coil wires are new, and plug wires are well on the plugs, I wonder if it could be the coil it self the problem? |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 05:12 pm: |
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You said yourself - the problem started with the new exhaust. Put it all back to stock. You know that configuration worked. If that makes the problem disappear, you need a decent map. Simple. |
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