| Author | Message | ||
     Sperz1 |
I just got a brand new 6mm rotor from Erik Buell Racing and a set of EBC Extreme Pro pads. Hopefully this will get rid of the build up issues and brake pulsing. I'll put up some pics of the install of anyone is interested. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Did you get the Erik Buell Racing mounting hardware as well? The collective Badweb opinion seems to be that the hardware may be the secret. | ||
| Sperz1 |
hmm. Didn't get the hardware. What's the reasoning behind thinking it's a factor? **EDIT Just read the description on Erik Buell Racing. Makes sense to me. (Message edited by sperz1 on February 16, 2011) | ||
| Djz |
dose any one know if you can fix the front brake .I hate it | ||
| Sperz1 |
What do you hate about it? | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Stock has front has been fine for me. | ||
| Djz |
sperz1 have u been on a buell the front brake is sad ...it plus to slam as you apply.. you can clean it you can change the pads but is a crappy brake ..I know you going to slam me for saying the truth go ahead and tell me what a great brake it is ...but do some reading here ...all are having problems ..what i asked ? if any know how to fix it for more than a few miles .I would be happy to buy the new 6mm rotor from Erik Buell Racing if it is a fix and mounting hard wear ... | ||
| Sperz1 |
Well I have 20k on my Uly so I'd like to think I have an idea of what the brakes feel like. I totally agree the pulsing is annoying, but I've had this happen on other sportbikes I've owned as well. It's the nature of the beast when you take high performance + heat + thin sheets of metal. | ||
| Invisible_monster |
Erik Buell Racing 6mm disc + Erik Buell Racing mounting hardware + new set of EBC HH pads cured the pulsing on my XT. | ||
| Kenm123t |
The reason your brakes pulse is warping and resin from the pads. Brakes convert kinetic energy to heat that said after braking the pads and rotors are hot Guess what happens when you keep the hot pads clamped to the rotor in one spot uneven heating and cooling. heating and cooling cycles are making a wave washer out of your rotor. It also allows brake resins to deposit in one place on the rotor this to a greater degree than warping causes the pulsing. Prevention is easy brake as needed with front brakes if you like most you seldom use the rear brakes use the rear brake in station keeping at lights. the rear brake by virtue of being mounted directly on the rear wheel cools quicker and does not seem to pick up resins out of the pads. try it ymmv. | ||
| Sperz1 |
 (Message edited by sperz1 on February 17, 2011) | ||
| Froggy |
They do. | ||
| Court |
That's accurate. | ||
| Sperz1 |
Not on my rotors. The high spots are evenly spaced all around the rotor. | ||
| Blake |
>>> all are having problems Credibility just went down the toilet. >>> Not on my rotors. The high spots are evenly spaced all around the rotor. The high spots are the localized deposits they are talking about.  Where you thinking that when you stop your pads engage the same location every time? It's random, thus ends up covering the entire disk. Sounds like a plausible theory. What I don't understand is why people get so bent out of shape over a little pulsing. I've noticed it under light braking. It's nothing that bothers me. The stock pads put down localized deposits. Anything other than mild braking, there is no pulse and the brakes work amazingly. I just like to ride. | ||
| Blake |
>>> I don't buy it, and the brakes convert potential energy to kinetic energy. That would be a great trick! Ken has it right. Brakes convert kinetic energy (energy of motion) into heat. | ||
| Sperz1 |
Blake - there is no way that the EVENLY SPACED build up spots that are ALL THE WAY AROUND THE ROTOR are from holding the front brake. The pulsing is so bad on my bike that the suspension actually gets a work out. It's unsafe. | ||
| Court |
EDIT: You are correct. I surrender. Whatever you say, however your modify the laws of physics . . . I agree. I give up. I know better than to get in these discussions. (Message edited by court on February 17, 2011) | ||
| Sperz1 |
Court - (I'm taking you at your word on this "all have the problems" statemen...) I'm not sure why you think I said that? Thanks for your words of encouragement.  | ||
| Echo15 |
NO pulsing at all since I went to the Lyndal Gold pads (cryoed). | ||
| Blake |
Sperz, I'm not sure what mechanism causes the excessive deposits, but the Frog Man's scenario is certainly plausible as a contributor. "Evenly spaced" you say? That must look quite interesting. Got a photo? | ||
| Arcticktm |
I've got a few thousand miles on the Erik Buell Racing 6mm rotor with Erik Buell Racing mounting kit and EBC pads and all is excellent. Changed it all out at the same time, of course, after trying various cleaning methods and Lyndal and other brake pads. My pulsing had gotten bad enough that I was reluctant to ride the bike in a sporting fashion. Life is good. And too short to go on an on debating physics and what is behind all the pulsing issues reported. The Erik Buell Racing stuff is reasonably priced, and has worked for several of us that tried it early last spring. Give it a try, or stop complaining. Please. I am pretty sure no one at the factory is listening anymore! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Bingo. Blake, my 9sx never had a problem, in spite of two track days, repeated emergency stopping (stoppie) drills in a parking lot, and intentionally overheating the front brake once to settle an argument here on badweb (somebody stills owes me a pizza for that). Never a hint of throb or pulse, and nothing but stock pads and rotors. The Uly I bought used with 10k miles really was hazardous though. I think it had new pads shortly before I bought it, stock rotor. Did everything to try and help it (clean, sand, switch to Lyndall Golds). All made it better, all together made it tolerable, but none made it good and whatever I did would start loosing ground again immediately. So I got the Erik Buell Racing 6mm kit, bolted it up with the existing used Lyndall golds, and it's been braking nirvana ever since (5k miles). So I don't think all new Buells have the problem, but some really were bad to the point of being hazzardous enough that I was changing my riding style to compensate. I ***really*** appreciate Erik Buell Racing stepping up to the plate and offering such an affordable and effective solution! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Oh, and this:
If I convert that to what I think you are saying:
Oh! Well that's just a personal preference thing. I have the opposite, I went to Lyndall Golds, which have a much more progressive bite on engagement, and don't like them as well as something more crisp. Al warned me about this when I bought them, I didn't know which I would prefer. Now I do, and the next set will be more aggressive. So drop a set of Lyndall Gold pads on there and you will have a much more progressive feel... and next time call Al and tell him what you want to accomplish and take his advice. That's different from the pulsing problem... | ||
| Hughlysses |
Cured it on my X as well. I agree with the comments that the pulsing is not necessarily caused by stopping with a hot front rotor and leaving the front brake clamped causing severe brake pad material deposition in a few spots. I've always made it a practice to hold the bike stopped using the rear brake only but my Uly developed the front brake pulsing after I'd had it for about a year. A change to Lyndall Gold pads helped for a while, but eventually it came back. I installed the Erik Buell Racing parts and EBC HH pads about a year ago and mine is still braking smooth as silk. | ||
| Blake |
Interesting, thanks for the detailed explanation Bill. So what was the verdict on the pulsing rotor? Any idea of the root cause? | ||
| Froggy |
From what I've seen in the past here, 99% of pulsing is either due to pad deposits on the rotor, or dust clogging up the rotor springs. | ||
| Etennuly |
Dust smusht! I took mine apart and cleaned all of the possible collection spots and the hardware, the rotor, the pads and at best I got in fifty miles of brakes that worked like brakes. I have the Lyndall Golds which are 70% better than stock on the factory rotor. Cleaning stuff helped for about fifty miles at a time. Before the Lyndall's it was just down right dangerous to use my front brake, and the same was for Orangulius' then new '06 Uly. Now that it is near time for new pads at 55,000 miles I am going with the 6mm rotor and hardware from you know who, and I will likely use Lyndall pads again. After a hot run down rt60 at Buelltoberfest on the Blastulys at speed, I have felt good smooth brakes, and found that it is time to have them on my Uly for the first time since new. I am totally with Reep on this program. (Message edited by etennuly on February 17, 2011) | ||
| Yamafreak |
I had the same problem on my used 08XT with 8200 miles on it. It was unsafe! I got some cheep pads on e-bay and cleaned the rotor and 4000 miles later they are still Great.   My back brake still sucks though! | ||
| Ourdee |
As I posted about a year ago. I think all the brake pulsing is caused by operator error.  | ||
| Tootal |
I had the original rotor changed under warranty and the replacement did the same thing. I tried Lyndall's and cleaning and still had a pogo stick under braking. I bought the the 6mm rotor and hardware and no more problems. I've always contended that the pads could not handle the heat generated by the large rotor. The bigger the rotor the faster the surface area being stopped. The faster surface speeds are trying to be stopped by pad compounds designed for smaller rotors. The excess heat also distorts the rotor over time. A thicker rotor fixes the problem. IMHO. |
