| Author | Message | ||
     Not_purple_s2 |
As some of you may remember I bought Hugh's CR back at Buelltoberfest and then almost immediately laid it down at Jennings. Kinda a freak thing, I'm still not 100% sure what happened, I must have pulled a little too hard on the front brake slowing down off the straight. Anyway it went down, low side, on the left side. At first I thought the damage minimal, handlebars, foot peg shifter, pod... I thought the broken radiator and rashed stator cover was goin to be the most expensive damage. But when I got it up on a stand and tried to shift it through the gears with the new shifter, it wouldn't leave neutral. I also noticed that the shifter rod appears to be pressed in more than before. I believe when the bike went down the contact on the shifter rod has bent either that rod or some other part in the shifter linkage. Has anyone else had this problem? I've only found one guy whose on another forum. He said they were able to replace the rod and fork for around $850. Any dealership/tech guys know how much this might cost me? I'm really amazed how fragile that rod must be since the crash was mostly a slide. the bike didn't hit extremely hard. I'm thinking that I'll be going to some hard mounted footpegs to replace the fold-up ones. I would think this would be a big problem for guys that race these bikes as any crash on the left side could easily lead to a major tear down to replace a bent shift rod. Is there anything that I could be missing that could be causing this? something I can fix before I take the bike in to the dealer? It just will not go into gear either up or down. It I push the lever down and turn the wheel it will catch the tire like it's in gear but it won't stay. When you take the pressure off it goes back to freewheeling. If the dealership quotes an astronomical bill I may just have to part the bike out. Really said but the bike is worth more in pieces... even before i crashed. I hope that they can fix it for under a grand at least so I cna keep her. | ||
| Not_purple_s2 |
Dealership called, they have to split the cases and go into the transmission. Looking at $1200+ now just in labor. This sucks... | ||
| Hughlysses |
Damn, Curtis. Sorry to hear this. I figured you had it fixed and on the road by now. It is hard to believe nobody else here has (apparently) run into this problem. A definite 9.9 on the suck-o-meter. | ||
| Jdugger |
Not, Based on Curve's comments in the other thread, a fresh motor won't set you back but $1600. If that's true, it's hard to justify 1200 to split the cases. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Bummer. Must be a different setup then the XB. They have that shifter shaft assembly in the primary where you don't have to split the cases. Of course they don't shift as nice as an 1125, and aren't as light either... | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Buy a parts manual on Ebay - see how the shaft interfaces with the shifting drum -hard to believe that Rotax did something so different that a bent/broken shift shaft requires split cases - usually it's clutch cover/clutch R&R and the shift shaft can be removed after the clutch is out of the way. if the cases split vertically (ala Suzuki's TL/SV/DL series)...yeah you gotta take the top end(s) off to get into the trans by splitting the cases - lots of labor. If the cases split horizontally (ala Inline 4cyl) - pull the engine - turn it upside down and you can remove the bottom case while leaving the top end intact - less labor....beg/borrow a parts manual-investigate - ask questions... good luck | ||
| No_rice |
i was doing some checking on this, and it really doesnt seem like there is much of a way you are going to damage the trans. looks more like you would have messed up the shift shaft, and the bushing. MAYBE the shift pawl. all of which you should be able to fix by just removing covers and possibly the clutch. my techs cant see any need for a case split. obviously it hasnt been torn apart, but the gears and such shouldnt have taken any impact at all really... i would definitely start with that before going deeper. | ||
| Not_purple_s2 |
I told them basically what you said No_Rice. I have the service manual at the house, but there seemed too much involved for me to do the repair myself. They called today and said that they have to go into the transmission to find out what is wrong. At $80/hr this is getting expensive. (Message edited by Not_Purple_S2 on February 10, 2011) | ||
| Not_purple_s2 |
The only things I can think of that would have damaged the trans are the impact... Which I don't think was that bad. The shifter was still in place just a little bit bent and the toe peg was rashed. Or the bike being forced into neutral in order to get it on the trailer (it was in gear and the clutch lever was gone) It did seem like the shaft had been pushed in since the head of the toepeg bolt was contacting the footpeg bracket even after I straightened out the lever. | ||
| Jdugger |
Not, Take a look at this thread. Guy I know had a similar problem: http://www.buelletinboard.com/forums/showthread.ph p?16307-Transmission-Problem | ||
| Not_purple_s2 |
Yeah, I saw that. Hoped I would be able to get off that low but it doesn't look like it. Maybe his service department was better or didn't charge as much. I've sent an email to him but haven't heard back. I'm Torque on that board. | ||
| Jdugger |
> I've sent an email to him but haven't heard back. I think I've got his cell # or email... > I'm Torque on that board. I'm a dick-bag everywhere, but sometimes it sure is fun. | ||
| Fast1075 |
The story is told once you get to the shift drum...If they haven't gone that far (easy) they cannot know where the damage is. I would say 50/50 that it is no deeper than the shift mechanism unless the case is broken...it might have whacked a shift fork but that would take a brutal hit to do. Once the shift mechanism is removed and the drum accessed, it is simple to check operation...it will either go easily from gear to gear or not...if it works, fix the shift mechanism...if it doesn't....it will need to come apart...shame you can't just flip the bike upside down and work on the transmission. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Curtis- any update on the tranny repairs? | ||
| Curve_carver |
I personally would prefer a new unit instead of trusting someone’s capabilities. Do you get a warranty? You can acquire a new motor but there is a few stipulations that one must know. I received my motor with no warranty and no VIN number. I knew all of this when I purchased it. It was strictly for racing purposes  You get the drift? My engine was an early 09 engine that was acquired in a large volume sale. I did get it for a steal that’s why I jumped on it. I don’t imagine getting a 2010 engine for that price. The new engines have better valve train parts, and additional oiling ports in the transmission, water pump, and heads. I believe the valves / seats are titanium and can handle more Rpm. You should contact E.B.R. before making any major commitments. Explore your options!!!!! Ebr has a great staff. They have exceeded my expectations in customer service. | ||
| Curve_carver |
Keep in mind erik is building a street bike. So he should have street engines for sale. |
