Guys I had a real moment of stupidity and deleted 100 of my most recent uploads. My connection speed up is only .26Mb/s so it will take a while to get that clip reformed. What can I say...oldtimers is setting in.
I can condense 15 minutes to a couple of sentences
It's so easy anyone with a drill and pop rivet gun can do it. A clamp helps because the can springs back into round when you remove the oval plug. I used a dead blow to get the plug out but on second thought a length of wood from the inside to force it out would be smarter. Barker sends a Pillow you wrap around the center tube that tapes to itself...could not be neater. The supplied rivets are stainless steel with plugged ends and are a BEEE Yotch to pop by hand.
Piece of cake. Again, I apologize for deleting the video.
Posted on Wednesday, February 09, 2011 - 01:04 pm:
Excellent video. Thanks for posting it.
Tim recommended removing the header side end cap as the machined side has a step to hold the perforated center tube. As he explained it it is just a little easier to re-install this way.
Posted on Wednesday, February 09, 2011 - 05:51 pm:
Thanks. I decided on the exit end because I have no doubt that Barker puts the rivets in better than I do. In the process of drilling out the rivets sometimes the holes are enlarged a tad. Just going from my experience with the X-1 Pro Buell Race exhaust every time the rivets are removed the next fastening is not quite as secure. I'd rather have the header end as secure as possible.
One thing I would do differently is to pop out the end cap from inside instead of wiggling it loose from the outside. That would have been easier.
It's holding up fine so far. I've put over 500 miles on since the repack.
Posted on Wednesday, February 09, 2011 - 09:32 pm:
for anybody that is repacking the exhaust here is a little secret I have found that works for drilling the rivets. Use a drill bit that is larger than the 3/16 rivet like a 5/16 bit. Just drill the head off(stop before you drill aluminum) and then with a punch drive the rest of the rivet into the can and you will not accidentally make the rivet holes to big for the rivet. I hope this helps anyone attempting to repack.
I prefer mufflers that require no repacking and muffler merchants who sponsor when using the site to talk about their products. Class act? Not so much. Have asked him to stop using BadWeB to talk about his mufflers multiple times. He's back again still at it.
Very disappointing. There are so many great muffler manufacturers to choose from who do step up and support the place. Despite multiple email inquiries and offers to do so, Tim's not one of them.
straight forward instructions on drilling out pop rivets the proper way...
American Sport Bike is a sponsor and sells Barker mufflers. Manufacturers competing in a distributor's market space (BWB & American Sport Bike) is a good way to lose a distribution network.....
>>> all he's doing is offering advice to people who already have them which is cool.
That, being able to engage customers and talk about your product, is a privilege reserved for sponsors. He's been warned before about it. There is history. Otherwise we'd let it go, no question. He's on the radar so to speak.
Note that I did not remove the post. We are strict when it comes to the advertising/marketing issue. If Al wants to post the information, that is fine.
Everyone is free to run their own web site how they wish. You don't like how I run the site here, you are free to avoid it.