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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Fuel System: EFI/DDFI, Carb., Filter, Pump, Tank, Filler-Cap, Fuel » Broke the Keihin carb plastic fuel inlet thing « Previous Next »

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Buell_bert
Posted on Monday, January 24, 2011 - 07:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, I have broken the plastic fuel inlet on the carb. That is not the problem now because I know how to break one. I really need to find out to remove it (the brass is still in there) and install a new one. It may be pressed in but not sure. The new one seems to be #27371-76A and looks to be solid brass. I just do not want to wreck anything more. Thanks and all help is appreciated.
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Texas_firebolt
Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ive used an easy out before. As soon as it turns loose and starts to turn you can pull it out.
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Al_lighton
Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 11:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The best way to fix it? Remove the carb and put a Mikuni HSR42 flat slide on it. Seriously. My S1W is VERY modified, but the Mikuni is still the single best mod I made to the bike.
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Texas_firebolt
Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 Even on a bone stock bike, you will notice the increased throttle response from a cable slide carb vs. a vacuum slide.
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Buell_bert
Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 12:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What would I have to change or buy (besides the carb of course) to go to the HSR. ??? inlet, cable, air cleaner, mounting, also the vacuum switch effect.
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Al_lighton
Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Virtually nothing, it bolts right in. You transfer your choke cable over and that's all there is to it. The air cleaner is on the other side of the bracket, it doesn't know what carb is there. The only issue is that even though it is supposed to use the stock throttle cables, there is always just a bit too much slack in them and you have to have both of the adjusters at the grip ALL the way out. The solution for many has been to put a little spacer in down at the carb on one of the cables. We used to sell one that was actually for an edelbrock carb, but it worked. But the distributor turned them off. Adjusting it all the way out and a small tweak on the carb cable end bracket works for many...
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Bighead57
Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 01:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To remove the brass tube still stuck in the carb remove from bike. put the tube in a vise twist and pull up on the carb it will come out just work it back and forth. the replacement part can be bought at the HD dealer near you it is pressed in use the vise to press it in. very simple fix
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