| Author | Message | ||
     Weslo |
I have had one voltage regulator failure and was wondering if anyone has found a replacement . I have read different post but wanted to know if there is an actual solution for the problem like a mosfet plug and play version i don't wanna b buyin a new vr every 3k miles. any suggestions plz | ||
| Froggy |
The stock one works fine, if you are buying a new one every 3000 miles, you have something else wrong with your bike. That said, I haven't seen any other VR's that are plug and play, they need different connectors to interface with our bike. (Message edited by Froggy on February 06, 2011) | ||
| Curve_carver |
There were a few people that played with some aftermarket ones. I would assume any would work as long as the output of the stator was matched to the VR. I remember reading somewhere that the current VR wasn't properly matched to the output of the bike . That's why the cr versions were burning up faster. The higher rpm due to the increased gearing was causing more charging which the VR wasn't liking. I thought I read that the VR was rated at 475 and the output of an 09-10 stator was a max of 525. I could be wrong? I have noticed my VR wiring looking crispy brown but my stator harness was still yellow? Once again I could be wrong and this is just my overall observations. I was looking into getting vr that has a higher rating. Replacing it with a stock one would seem unlikely after I seen what the wiring looked like (Message edited by Curve_carver on February 06, 2011) | ||
| Usanigel |
If the wiring is anything other than its original color then something is wrong. Double check the connections are tight, if they are not this will cause volt drop and an increase in current and that causes heat because the wattage is the same. | ||
| Curve_carver |
Generators produce direct current, which travels in one direction. Motorcycle batteries can't use AC power since they produce DC power. As a result, the stator's power output is fed through diodes, which convert the AC power to DC power.Using ohms law I realize that the VR is a conductor in a sense. When The VR or I call it a conductor goes bad the electrons are bottlenecked or bound in the stator windings system or wiring. So yes I assume my VR is on it's way out. I plan on logging some measurements and getting to the cause of this issue soon before spring. I'm starting to get cabin fever and when spring rolls on I don't need a charging system holding me back from my trips. I did check the clips and they are yellow at the female and male ends???? | ||
| Daniii |
Mine took a shit at Sturgis, showing 16 Volts as the headlights were burning out. It may have been the cause of my Garmin 550 also taking a dive the next day (in the car). The VR was replaced under warranty. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
The VR on the 1125r is a SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier type)…it uses the frame as a heat sink – I bought a 1125r from a salvage yard …the locking nuts have failed – or someone was trying to take the VR off – the VR was held on by one nut rather loosely. a) there is thermal grease on the back of the VR – (similar to what is used on CPUs and heat sinks in you PC or the ignition modules on 1980s GM distributors)…it used to help transmit the heat from the VR to the frame ( grease displaces air – air is an insulator) – if you have a “loose” heat sink this convection of heat from the VR to the frame may be “broken” ( Radio Shack and some better Auto stores have “thermal” grease) b) if the VR overheats it will fail c) double nut the VR – if the lock nuts fail (due to heat from the VR – it anneals the nuts locking “fingers”??? ( I’m guessing…) the second nut will keep thing tight. Wouldn’t recommend loctite – we use heat to loosen nuts and bolts that have been loctited) d) I have since replaced my VR with a MosFet ( Metal Oxide Substrate Field Effect Transistor) type VR…available on Ebay for $80-90…they are available of of newer rice burners (mine was from 2010 CBR1000RR made by the Shindengen company – P/Ns start with FH–XX) I have successfully done this transplant on a Triumph a couple of older Suzuki SVs and my 1125r…if you’re interested – I can take some pix and post them up…some of the benefits are lower heat output and higher voltage at lower RPMs…especially good for those of us in the warmer climates when those pesky fans kick in at a stop light. You can read more about MosFet based VR here: ( page 2 post #30 sez it all) Highly recommend EasternBeaver for parts ( on page 1 for wiring and terminals not easily available in the US) for those who know how to solder. http://www.triumphrat.net/maintenance-tips-and-tri cks-for-your-sprint/115955-upgrade-regulator-recti fier-install.html good luck | ||
| Dirty_john |
Use the FH12AA, I took the advice from this forum and it was excellent solution to the issue of suspect voltage regulation (not to be confused with inadequate stator cooling) | ||
| Robissimo |
Is FH12AA the same as part as FH012AA? | ||
| Curve_carver |
I just spoke with my professor and he said that a mosfet style is a better choice . He also said that using single phase from 3 phase drops the percent of the stator output by 170%. He said why did they do that? He then said does it keep up? We both agreed that the battery is taking the brunt of the voltage drop and will cause the battery to be fried earlier. So my goal is to eliminate the so called fix with a stronger regulator and pull the fix. The design/ materials of the stator has a its limits. It maybe necessary for the stator tobe rewound with better materials? | ||
| Curve_carver |
He also said to rewire the system with silicone insulated wires. This will increase the charge by eliminating the wire as a conductive material. | ||
| Reepicheep |
We beat this to death a bit. A shunt SCR setup and a shunt MOSFET setup are fairly similar. An N-Channel MOSFET can in theory run a little cooler than an SCR setup could run, because it can have a lower forward voltage drop when switched fully on. The MOSFET probably switches faster also, which would also help. But either should be within the capacity of the VR enclosure to dissipate. Its a big heat sink mounted to a bigger heat sink. The stator windings likely dissipate most of the extra heat and power... and that would be true for both MOSFET and SCR setups. The way the VR is wired in, it still has to be a shunt regulator. Power = Watts = Volts * amps, so while the VR is shunting a LOT of amps, it is doing so with very low voltage (just the forward voltage of the SCR or MOSFET). So even if it's dropping 50 amps, its probably at 1V or so, figure 50-75 watts. The MOSFET would be less, but shift that extra heat into the stator windings (which is where the problem is). The battery does absorb some of the power, but only by delaying the point where the VR does anything. So the battery doesn't make the VR regulate with less work, it just makes the VR regulate for shorter periods. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/601431.html?1288005217 Jake | ||
| Cataract2 |
Curious about the ground cable idea from the VR. Does that really work in stabilizing the voltage? I have an 08 and while the stator is not a problem with it I do notice some voltage fluctation after the bike gets hot. Nothing serious, just the flickering screen and my voltage gauge I have will drop to the lower end of charging (LED light one from American Sport Bike). | ||
| Gemini |
there is not circuit between the case of the VR and any on the pins of the VR. the ground wire attempt has no effect. |
