Author |
Message |
Billp
| Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 01:03 pm: |
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I went to ride my 1125r on saturday but the battery was dead. It had been unplugged from the battery tender for about 2 weeks. No big deal, so I plugged it in and went riding sunday with no problems, slab and back roads for a few hours. I left if off the tender since sunday on purpose to see how long it would take to get low enough to not start. This morning around 7am I tried to start it and all it did was click. Voltmeter says it was around 11.5 volts. Cannot remember the exact number. I'm a little concerned about this. My xb9s can stay unplugged for weeks without an issue but my 1125 went low enough to not start in less than 48 hours ? Does this seem like a normal issue since its cold here in NC, 30s-40s at night. Or does this sound like a problem ? perhaps some kind of drain on the system ? Or is this due to the upgraded harness not charging the battery as much as it should ? Its an 09 1125R, approx 2200 miles. Wiring harness upgrade has been done. No electrical issues otherwise. Original battery and normally on a battery tender jr when not in use. Thanks, Bill, Charlotte nc |
Sprintst
| Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 01:32 pm: |
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Sounds like you are buying a new battery. They get destroyed pretty easily if they get run down. In my experience, a single good discharge can ruin it (Message edited by sprintst on February 01, 2011) |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 02:37 pm: |
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has the bike been modified? |
Georgehitch17
| Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 03:39 pm: |
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ahhh probably because your using the JR. model haha I'm just kidding. I have also experienced how a single drain can kill a battery for life! |
Rogue_biker
| Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 03:42 pm: |
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Instrument cluster needs to get replaced? My '08 did that until the dealer replaced the instrument cluster. It's covered under warranty. |
Billp
| Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 04:47 pm: |
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Nope, no mods at all except the wiring harness upgrade done by the dealer. My electrical troubleshooting skills suck. So how do I tell if its a drain or the instrument cluster ? My cluster seems to be fine. No weird behavior there. I guess I can pull the battery and have it load/bench tested. I've done that for my car and truck batteries. |
Jules
| Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 04:49 pm: |
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In theory only the 08s had the parasytic draw problem |
Bueller4ever
| Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 04:57 pm: |
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What are the volts on the IC while cruising at highway speeds? Could very well be the stator. Mine was just replaced. If you aren't seeing 13+ volts at highway speeds, then it's done for. |
Tpoppa
| Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 05:01 pm: |
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The stator 'fix' puts more strain on the battery than normal. I've already had one replaced under warranty. If it's not charged after being on the tender, your battery is toast. |
Billp
| Posted on Tuesday, February 01, 2011 - 05:29 pm: |
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While riding my cluster says the volts are ok..generally mid to high 13.x volts. On the first dead bike my battery tender charged it fine overnight, then took 2 days to loose it, so it looks like the tender is working. Now that I recall, after my harness install the bike when dead, down to 10.x volts, while I was riding it. After stopping I had to jump start it, ride it home, and charge it back up. Dealer said it was a mistake on the harness install and after they corrected it things seemed ok. That was sometime last summer. Now I wonder if that bad drain down to 10x volts while riding may have pooched my battery and now I'm getting this problem. |
Bextreme04
| Posted on Wednesday, February 02, 2011 - 10:00 am: |
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If you have a multimeter you can check for a parasitic drain fairly easily... just disconnect your positive terminal from the battery and connect one lead of the multimeter to the positive cable and the other to the battery post.. set the multimeter to measure amps and it will tell you what the system is drawing with the switch off. If it shows a couple amps then start disconnecting stuff until it goes away... last thing you disconnect is the problem! |
Sprintst
| Posted on Wednesday, February 02, 2011 - 10:05 am: |
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I would pull the battery and have it tested. These things are so sensitive today they get killed pretty easily. |
Usanigel
| Posted on Wednesday, February 02, 2011 - 02:12 pm: |
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Bextream is on the right track but there will always be a very small drain to maintain the ECM memory, run the clock etc but it should be very small. Battery going flat in a day or two means a bigger drain or a duff battery. Check any add-ons for being powered when turned off. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Wednesday, February 02, 2011 - 05:58 pm: |
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The stator 'fix' puts more strain on the battery than normal. I've already had one replaced under warranty. If it's not charged after being on the tender, your battery is toast. Yes. Happening to me at this moment as well. |
Sparky
| Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2011 - 02:11 am: |
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Fresno, your battery is toast after replacing the stator? Howzat? |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2011 - 03:20 am: |
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Stator "fix" puts a battery thru hell. Easier and cheaper to replace batteries than stators. |
Boogman
| Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2011 - 03:26 am: |
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very interesting .... im having very similar problems with the battery over here in OZ .. |
Sparky
| Posted on Friday, February 04, 2011 - 02:17 am: |
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As long as the battery is not being discharged during normal operation, i.e. indicating 11.9 or less, I don't consider that putting a battery thru hell. Normal operation with the harness upgrade on my bike for instance, has the battery seeing voltages ranging from low 12s to mid 14s. That's normal, isn't it? On the other hand, I've only put a couple hundred miles (beta-testing?) the upgrade, so maybe I haven't experienced all the long term side effects yet, if any? |
Tpoppa
| Posted on Friday, February 04, 2011 - 03:00 pm: |
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While idling in traffic, I see voltage below 12. I use a tender with my 1125 more than my other bikes. I am expecting to replace the battery every two years...and you can bet it won't be with a HD battery, As stated above, replacing batteries is cheaper/easier than stators. |
Billp
| Posted on Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 11:15 am: |
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update. I finally had a chance to follow Bextreme04s instructions. My draw is .109 amp, 1.09 ma. I don't know if this is the normal draw from the cluster or not. I'll continue to monitor it and if the battery goes dead again I guess I'll just replace the battery. I'll probably just order one from AmericanSportBike. I'm starting to suspect the battery since I did have one bad drain where it went down to approx. 10.5 volts. Before replacing it myself I'll give the dealer a call and see if I can get one under warranty. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 11:22 am: |
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someone here posted this new class of battery! http://www.twfracing.com/shorai.html |
Froggy
| Posted on Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 12:02 pm: |
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Ain't new, I've been running a similar battery for 2 years now, and I wouldn't recommend those as they lack a load balancing circuit to extend life and prevent fires. Erik Buell Racing has one thats worth getting. |
Daniii
| Posted on Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 12:44 pm: |
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I put the CR on the tender last night. It hadn't been run in a couple weeks. Took a long time to get the green light, but it finally came on. |
Doerman
| Posted on Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 04:07 pm: |
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In theory only the 08s had the parasytic draw problem It is indeed a fact. There is a instrument cluster upgrade for the 08. This problem can be alleviated by the owner by: 1- kill switch 2- ignition off That procedure shuts the circuits that have a low level draw. I did this with my bike for a while until the cluster was replaced and it prevented battery drain. After I got a new cluster, I have continued to use the above shut down procedure. I have forgotten once and the bike sat for 2 weeks. The bike barely cranked. I have the same experience with my wife's Triumph. If it is sitting for a while and has not been shut down using the kill switch, the battery goes down faster. Bottom line - use kill switch and then turn off the ignition. Works for me - YMMV |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 08:54 pm: |
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Froggy - just as an FYI, the folks at Shorai e-mailed me that their "tender" is almost ready, it monitors and optimizes each cell independently from a 5-pin connector on the battery. To me that implies multiplexing or digital since there are 6 cells which leads to onboard cell monitoring, considering the technology. Just thinking.... I really like the idea of an 18AH equivalent in the same size as our 12AH. Not so much for Loretta, but the Uly... I can plug in an inverter and run it longer with a bigger battery. I have a solar charger with the same SAE connector as the tender uses so I can charge in the field without running the engine. Waiting to hear some feedback, besides both my batteries are fine, Loretta's is still the original battery, over 3 years old. Hiya Ozzie... another 1125 plank owner Oh man the wait was SO worth it 3 years ago!! Z |
Doerman
| Posted on Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 09:23 pm: |
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3 years ago? I know time flies when you're having fun. It has been 4 years though. My bike is running like a champ! Mitzu did the last BIG service and did a great job. Extras were a cracked airbox and a failing front wheel bearing. Still enjoying it like the first day over 4 years ago! |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 09:56 pm: |
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OMG!!! Wow, I must be old...(hush Ozzie) Yeah.. 4 years. Sh_t that means the battery should die soon, bell-curve on these is 4-6 years from what I've seen. I may try a Shorai sooner than I thought. Zack |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Friday, February 11, 2011 - 02:09 pm: |
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BTW, confirmed bad battery. Charging system still working "perfectly" according to service manager. I guess the definition of perfect is rather loose here. |