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Harleyelf
| Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2011 - 01:50 am: |
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I found it easier than anticipated. The carburetor-friendly module I chose was from a '98 S3; it is dual-fire so I had to change the coil, tachometer, cam position sensor, and cam position sensor trigger as well. A VOES switch must be procured and attached to some vacuum line; if the carburetor is new you have an outlet for it and if it is not you must get an intake manifold with an outlet. My 1952 Jaguar XK SU carburetor has no vacuum outlets. You must change the intake manifold. First choose your carburetor, then get a manifold to fit it to an evo Sporty. Wiring is easy. Many pins will not be used, and the seven that are used are easy to locate. Power, ground, VOES, 3 from the cam position sensor, and tachometer/coil. All but VOES are already there attached to the fuel injection's module. The unused coil wire will reach to the VOES if you mount it high enough. Remember to fabricate a bracket to hold the head to the air cleaner; the manifold cannot sustain the weight of the carburetor under vibration. If you're using a Sporty carburetor and air cleaner the bracket will fit right up. I had to make one out of a stout steel hinge, drilled and ground to shape. The fuel tank is an issue. If you use the fuel pump holes you won't get the lowest point of the tank. You can try lowering the fuel pressure and keeping the pump, but that didn't work for me. Buying a tank from a carburetor equipped year is the easy way out. I drilled holes back by the battery and Kreem coated the daylights out of the button head screws I put in from the inside to hold the '98 petcock. Nylon flat washers go under the button heads, not o-rings. Plug the fuel pump holes with short bolts big enough not to have side play. Nylon flat washers go under the heads of the bolts, which are placed inside the tank. Let the coating cure until it no longer stinks of solvent, more than one day. |
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