| Author | Message | ||
     Doctor_jelly |
General info: 2009 1125R Just over 1500 miles Oil/filter changed at ~600 miles (Syn3) Had it for just over 2 months all in Phoenix winter weather Dieing during warm up: It's happened 3 or 4 times now in the past 2 weeks. During warm up at idle, probably less than 30 seconds until the dash stops saying cold, the bike just dies. No sputtering, warning, nothing. It's as if someone hit the kill switch... Starts right back up no problem, and no problem if I take off while still cold. My first guess is this notorious lean bottom mapping, but curious if it's happened to anyone else. Neutral light on in gear: Kicked it in neutral after school, cranked it and she jumped forward and down before I could stop it. Neutral light was still on and it was still in gear when I picked it up (think warranty would cover the minor damage?). Haven't been able to duplicate since. Found lots about false neutrals between 5/6th gears in the search, but nothing offhand on my problem. Dragging clutch: I know it's hydraulic, but the bike pulls a lot more than I expected with no weight on and in gear when I start it. Can't compare it to the bike I've been on the last 3 years because the clutch switch was broken in it (neutral starts only). Clunking noise: Seems to only happen when still cold and either slowing down and/or slipping the clutch in a turn. It makes a gnarly clanky/clackiting noise, almost like a chain is climbing over a sprocket and dropping back into its tooth... I thought the vacuum assisted bit of the clutch was pulling and letting out multiple times making the racket, but I really have no idea. Can't seem to replicate the circumstances/noise at will. Has happened a handful of times since the day I started riding it. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
in San Diego with a 2008 1125- hitting below freezing at night a) oil drag - might want to warm it up some before you ride off b) brake fluid level in Clutch master cylinder - if it's too low the clutch isn't releasing - the slave cylinder/piston isn't moving enough to make the clutch dis-engage...chk it - the fluid might be leaking (that was my problem) c) it it's like the rice burners I've grown up with - the neutral light is "on" when a contact makes connection with ground(-); the electrical connection to the shifting mechanism is down by the drive pulley - look and check the connection - it could be loose or insulation may be worn away after contacting rotating parts! ( Yikes!) good luck | ||
| Smit3833 |
I'm also in San Diego. And with these "harsh" winters I might get the bike stalling out in the morning during warm up maybe once a week (I ride almost every day). The air temp is usually in the low 40's. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
...water(from condensation due to the temp extremes the "gas tank" sees)might also be in the fuel - might want to try a dixie cup full of "HEAT" or the Chevron Fuel injection cleaner (they have 4 pacs at Costco) to eliminate/absorb the H2O next time you fill up ...a little goes a long way - don't over do it - good luck | ||
| Chessm |
i have the neutral light on but bike is in gear issue. ive just gotten used to it by letting the clutch out slowly when im stopped. ive had the clutch weep issue twice but the neutral thing happens no matter how much clutch fuild is in the reservoir. and im jsut over 6K miles on my CR. | ||
| Easyrider |
Doctor Jelly, I assume you didn't do things to the bike you are not knowing about (-: You are correct it can be lean bottom mapping. Reset the TPS every time before you start the bike, The cold start enrichment is not good enough for really cold wetter. what oil are you running in the bike, We have very good results by using Motul oil 10W-40 full synthetic even in cold weather no clutch drag.. try that. | ||
| Doctor_jelly |
Well at least I know some of these problems are not specific to me. -I'll check the clutch level, but I haven't seen any leaks on the motor so far. -I'm using Syn3 until the warranty runs out just in case, H-D has one less reason not to pay out. -I did a TPS zero not long after I got the bike, but I'll do one again since I've been in there to remove the active intake solenoid recently. One more question, once in awhile when I shut off the bike and pull the key it will make the WOW test noise (like when the dash runs the stepper motors through during initial ignition on) over and over every couple minutes. The dash doesn't do anything but I hear the noise. I can get rid of it by turning the ignition key on, then off again. Another problem others have encountered? | ||
| Zac4mac |
That noise is the fuel pump cycling. It will do that for 10 minutes or so to keep the fuel rail free of bubbles. Be glad it's not a noisy pump like my Firebolt had. My 2008 "R" has 26k miles, no stalls. Sometimes a stumble at first when it's below 20 dF. Welcome to BWB and 1125 insanity. Z |
