| Author | Message | ||
     Nogras1 |
I have tried to find out what the best synthetic oil to use in my 09 1125r. What have you guys have had luck with? | ||
| Cataract2 |
I've been using Mobil 1 15/50 in both my XB and 1125R with success for many miles now. (XB with 54,000 miles and 1125R with 18,000 miles.) | ||
| Froggy |
Oh no, he asked what oil is best!  | ||
| Hughlysses |
At least he didn't ask if it was OK to plug a tire! | ||
| Tq_freak |
Or about Teflon Tape | ||
| Hootowl |
Or fuel catalysts. | ||
| Skntpig |
 | ||
| 1_mike |
Even though the "search" function on this board can be a real pain in the butt....I'd bet it would find hours of reading on the oil question. Mike | ||
| Xnoahx |
Your owners manual recommends HD SYN 3 | ||
| Nukeblue |
i say plug a tire AND run 10-50 repsol | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I've been running mobil1 15w50 for many years but Mobil discontinued the extended performance version a couple years ago and my reserves are just about depleted. Supposedly the EP version was group 4 based and the non EP is group 3. After my 15w50 EP is gone, I'll probably switch to Amsoil. I'm thinking about using the 10w40 instead of 20w50 because both versions should be shear stable and when hot, perform comparably, and the 10 rating should flow noticeably better when cold. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
been using the amsoil for about 2500 miles or so the shifting has gotten 'sticky' in about the same time as it did with the syn3 and the mobile1 v-twin... | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Your owners manual recommends HD SYN 3 Sure, you can pay too much for semi-synthetic oil made by Petróleos de Venezuela - it's your choice... | ||
| Easyrider |
Nogras1 ask any Rotax dealer, apprilia, KTM what they use it is a 10W-40 full synthetic and not a 20w-50. Because Harley has no other oil in there assortment they told Buell to use it. We use for all our 1125 customers Motul 10W-40 full synthetic and until today no engine damage or problems with shifting. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I keep Red Line 10W-40 in Loretta year round. The Uly gets 20W-50 mostly, 10W-40 for Winter, Red Line Primary/Chaincase oil in the Primary. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
ask any Rotax dealer, apprilia, KTM what they use it is a 10W-40 full synthetic and not a 20w-50. Actually, for the best protection/performance you should use the highest viscosity (heaviest weight) oil approved by your manufacturer for the lowest ambient temperature you will be riding in. Because Harley has no other oil in there assortment they told Buell to use it. Yes, H-D does recommend their semi-SYN3 20W-50 for your Buell specifically because it is the "house brand", they make a nice profit on it, and because H-D doesn't have a branded 10W-40, but in your manual you'll see that 10W-40 is approved also. For those living in warmer climes a 20W-50 full-synthetic would be the superior choice, but any oil that meets the manufacturer's requirements for type, class, and grade will work (some better than others). | ||
| Bigevildoer |
ask any Rotax dealer, apprilia, KTM what they use it is a 10W-40 full synthetic and not a 20w-50. Well, not quite. The local dealer I go to has a mechanic that used to be on the KTM racing team - he (and several KTM and Aprilia racers he still does work for) swear by Agip 10w60. I know it's out of spec for us Buell riders, but it's what I've been using, and it's been great so far - no notchy shifting or anything. | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
MOTUL 15/50 300V FULL SYN | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Actually the owners manual calls for HD 10W40 if below 40 deg F 20W50 is for use above 40F | ||
| Ezblast |
 | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
"Actually, for the best protection/performance you should use the highest viscosity (heaviest weight) oil approved by your manufacturer for the lowest ambient temperature you will be riding in." Are you sure about that? If a 40-weight, a 50-weight and a 60-weight will all provide a thick enough film to protect engine parts, wouldn't it make better sense to go with the lightest-weight oil that provides acceptable protection? Thinner oil means less pumping losses and internal friction and therefore more power and better engine efficiency. I think that part of the reason that HD recommended a 50-weight oil in the 1125 is because the average motorcycle oil isn't all that shear stable and will shear out of grade relatively quickly. There's no way a non-synthetic 50-weight oil would remain in grade during the ~6000-mile oil change interval recommended for the 1125s, and I think a lot of synthetics would also shear out of grade. So to err on the side of safety, HD recommended an oil weight that will likely remain close to at least a 40-weight over during a 6000-mile drain interval. So, if one starts out with a shear-stable 40-weight oil that will hold up over 6000 miles, then I don't think it would present a problem. Now if someone ran a less stable 40-weight and it sheared down to a 30-weight over the duration, that may well be getting into dangerous territory. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Yes and no. Yes, less viscous oil does reduce pumping losses and can fractionally improve efficiency- but it does so by giving up film strength, thermal stability, and resistance to viscosity degradation. For most street applications, the marginal performance gains of lower viscosity oil are not worth the reduction in protection provided by higher viscosity oil. In the scenario of choosing between a 40, 50, or 60 weight oil (assuming they are all approved for a specific application), the 60 weight would provide better film strength, better thermal stability, and resists degradation better than than the two lighter weights (assuming equal types and class). Additionally, when degradation does begin, the 60 weight oil can lose two grades before it becomes out of specification for the application- the 50 can lose one, the 40 can lose none. Shear stability is more a product of additive package than anything else, but all things being equal a higher viscosity oil is mechanically more shear stable than a lower viscosity oil. The key here is using a quality oil (synthetic is superior) with a quality additive package (not all additives are the same) and minimizing the numeric difference between the Winter rating (not a weight) and the operating weight. Multi-grade oils with larger numeric differences between the Winter rating and the operating weight have more additives, and additive degradation is the main cause of shearing- which results in viscosity degradation. Choosing the highest viscosity oil (whether mineral or synthetic) approved by the manufacturer for the lowest ambient temperature in which the vehicle will be operated will always provide the best combination of performance and protection. It's just the physical nature of oil. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I disagree about always opting with the heavier oil. A 60 weight would have to be a 30w to keep the spread to 30 points and so far as I know, 30w60 doesn't exit. 10w60 does, and that 50 point spread scares me. Mobil1 15w50 EP is very shear stable in my personal experience but the current 15w50 non EP is supposedly not group IV like the EP is and therefore probably not as shear stable. If a 40 weight will provide sufficient shear stability and adequate protection, and if that 40 weight is a 10w40 which will flow better when cold than a 15w or a 20w and only have a 30 point spread between hot and cold ratings, then that would be the way to go IMO. Even at 40 or 50f, a 10w will flow better and provide better startup protection than a 15w or thicker oil which is especially important if the bike is used for a lot of shorter trips with more frequent cold starts. | ||
| Kenm123t |
Oil is good use a battery tender and a block heater 1800 w on 1125 should be ok Maybe not in up state Minnesota but where non polar bears ride. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Why guess when you can test... http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ | ||
| Hughlysses |
Also check out the forums at www.bobistheoilguy.com | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
we run 15/50 motul 300v .... i thought i noticed motul decals on geoff bike too ? just saying.. | ||
| Sportster_mann |
Anybody tried Silkolene 20/50 ? http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-3908-silkolene-super-4 -20w-50-semi-synthetic-4-stroke-oils-for-all-moder n-motorcycles.aspx | ||
| Yugi |
Did anybody try Castrol Power RS V-twin full synthetic? http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericartic le.do?categoryId=9021705&contentId=7040548 I's sold at Wal-Mart for less than $9 per quart. |
