Author |
Message |
Buellgrrrl
| Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 05:49 pm: |
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Thanks to everyone's help I've got the new detent spring installed and the transmission is shifting as well as ever... It's is a Harley product, so one must temper one's expectations (LOL). But it took a lot of cranking to get it started for the test ride. Even after I'd ridden a couple miles it would die at idle if I didn't have the choke at least half way out. I'm used to this kind of behavior when it's 40 degrees out, but temp today was in the 60s. So is it normal for an M2 to need half choke to keep running even after riding a couple miles? I suspect it's time for a carb rebuild and new spark plugs, at least. thanks in advance, Diana |
96s2t
| Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 05:52 pm: |
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Maybe an intake manifold gasket leak? |
Dave_02_1200
| Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 06:36 pm: |
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Sounds like a lean condition. That could be caused by a manifold leak or a plugged fuel passageway or jet. Might be good to renew the manifold seal and clean the carb body before making changes. Are the exhaust and intake stock or are they low restriction aftermarket parts? If they are not stock, the carb will have to be rejetted to allow more fuel to pass. |
Mtkawboy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 07:04 pm: |
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After youre sure there are no intake leaks just go up 1 size on the pilot jet |
96s2t
| Posted on Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 07:30 pm: |
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If it was running OK before, it is more likely a part that has failed |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 12:49 am: |
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Your pilot jet is most likely clogged. If it's not been changed before, it should be a 45 with 2 1/2 turns out on the screw. |
96s2t
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 01:53 am: |
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I hope you get it repaired and post the fix here. So many people post the problem and don't follow up with the cure. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 08:52 am: |
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Most times I clean the plugs and that does it, especially after a long "tuning" session of start/kill/start/kill without riding. Recently, however, I had a clogged accelerator pump jet on the M2L. Twist, and no squirt. Pulled the carb, used a dental pick to clean all the jets and passages...runs like a champ now. Giveaway on the plug is, is one header tube hotter than the other? |
Someday
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 09:21 am: |
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+1 on the clogged idle jet, it happened to me. Mine was a varnish build up from sitting over the winter and not draining the float bowl before storing. |
Mtkawboy
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 12:34 pm: |
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I drain the carbs on all my bikes & fill the tank with gas and Stabil, then dump it in my truck in spring and remove & plug the fuel line. Dont depend on the petcock, they leak. |
Foximus
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 01:16 pm: |
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what type of detent spring did you use? I want to replace mine with something real stiff, and was just going to browse through ACE hardware's selection |
Devil_car
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 01:22 pm: |
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Definitely clean out your carb. If it has been sitting for a while, gas will definitely gum up the carburetor. Clean the low speed jet and the passageways. I typically have to do this with any carb'd vehicle if I leave gas in it for a while and don't run it. You'd probably be better off closing the petcock and letting it run dry if you don't plan to ride for a while. My M2L is cold blooded, but she'll idle after a minute or so on half-choke at 60 F. I have to crank up the idle speed a little to make sure she's in her sweet spot and she runs a little rough until fully warmed up, but she doesn't die. |
Fuzzz
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 01:49 pm: |
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I had an issue with something just like this on my son's 97 S1 just a few days ago, put the bike on a trickle charger for 8 hours and all was fine... |
Someday
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 03:21 pm: |
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The early carbed Buells, up to '98, have a drain screw on the float bowl accessed from the left side of the bike with a long straight blade screwdriver. There is even a hose which leads to the bottom of the engine to direct the gas, I think it leads near the front drive pulley. This is how I drain the carb for the winter. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 06:12 pm: |
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Take the float bowl off, remove jets cleaning each and float bowl... This could be caused by bad intake seals as in air leak ... Next time you let your M2 set, put Sta-Bil in gas tank, PLUS turn gas off with the bike on level ground,up right, and run engine until it quits ... Sta-bil treatment has to be done every 6 months ... |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 09:59 pm: |
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I think an important part of the Sta-Bil equation that isn't all that clear in this thread is - don't just add it to the tank. RUN the bike long enough so treated gas is in the carb, too. I would NOT "drain the carb, run it dry, and then add stabil to the tank". That does precisely ZERO for the carb because the stabil isn't in the carb. All you're doing at that point is preserving a bag of fuel. |
96s2t
| Posted on Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 10:22 pm: |
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If you really wanted to preserve the carb and intake system you would fog the carb with fogging sprayed into the carb whilst running a treated (premiem) fuel tank until the engine dies. It would probably last for one year. Fill the tank to the top. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, January 28, 2011 - 09:17 am: |
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All the Sta-Bil does is retard the octane lose while the gas is setting in the gas tank over long periods of time(ie:winter time, while in storage, or the engine not being run ... With the CARBURETOR you must not let gasoline set in the float bowl ... For those that have had the float bowl off their carburetor many times know that there is always sediment residue in them ... |
Fast1075
| Posted on Friday, January 28, 2011 - 12:57 pm: |
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If you live in an area that mandates ethanol in the fuel, it is worse...it causes more gum and corrosion that "pure" gasoline... |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, January 28, 2011 - 04:11 pm: |
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Guess that would be a good reason to empty the float bowl of gas ??? Put "STP" in my gas every 5k miles as PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE ... |
96s2t
| Posted on Friday, January 28, 2011 - 04:42 pm: |
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Sea foam is another cleaner and stablizer that I have used with good results |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Saturday, January 29, 2011 - 12:01 pm: |
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+1 on the Sea Foam. It's all I use. I use it all year long. |
Buellgrrrl
| Posted on Saturday, January 29, 2011 - 04:18 pm: |
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Well, thought I'd try it again today before I tear the carb apart. Especially since after being parked for 9 months it started up and ran fine when I first tried it two weeks ago. So lo and behold, it starts right up and idles fine. Ride it for a minute, choke completely off, no problems. So looks like I can maybe delay the carb rebuild. Thanks everyone for the Stabil, etc. advice. When I parked it last March I put Stabil in the tank, then shut off the fuel tap and ran it 'til it burned up all the fuel in the carb. BTW, is their any good source of a carb rebuild kit? Again, thanks for all the help! |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Saturday, January 29, 2011 - 07:19 pm: |
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http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-c atshow/m2.html Enjoy If you are looking for something specific that isn't on the website, give Al a call or an email. If he doesn't have it (I'd be surprised), he can get it. Since you have an intermittent problem...and clogged jets don't normally "heal"...I'd pay attention to your intake gaskets, and your plug wires. Fuel is very rarely intermittent - once it goes bad, it stays bad. Air and spark, though, can go back and forth depending on conditions. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Saturday, January 29, 2011 - 07:30 pm: |
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Well if "i" ever need HELP "INFO" for CARBURETOR problems this is the site to get help ... Have 110,423.85 miles on my OEM Carburetor as of the last ride and have never had any trouble with it ... Guess when "i" do it will have to be replace with a low mileage used one ... |
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