| Author |
Message |
    
Vospertw
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 10:47 am: | 
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Thanks guys. I could just about get the lower one with a standard extension on a wobble extension... but not quite. I was thinking of trying a flex extension. They aren't really good for fasteners that require a lot of torque but that's not what we're dealing with here. I agree that it's always best to use a torque wrench, but I would also say that in this case "better than nothing" certainly applies and it's no big deal to check them every so often. |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 03:46 pm: |
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Use a 1/4 drive swivel socket on long extension,works great. |
Vospertw
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 05:21 pm: |
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Firemanjim, good idea. I noticed that the wobble extension didn't allow enough movement to align on the socket. |
Greg_e
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 - 11:17 pm: |
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I was going to say 1/4 drive, when I had mine off for the wrap I spent a bunch of time looking at it and think a 1/4 drive deep socket with u joint and extension or two should be able to reach through the fan and around the shock and around the pipe to get that top nut. I'll probably test it in a couple months when the weather starts to get warmer so I can stand to work on it again. Sure would be nice to have a heated garage. |
Pash
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2011 - 03:54 pm: |
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I use these, on a 1/4" extension, to tighten/loosen the nuts:
And these (K Nuts) as the nuts as they are actually not round, but a curved triangle, making them self locking and resistant to vibration:
The cool thing about these is that they are 3/8 AF rather than 1/2 AF meaning that you have more room for the socket...
The torque setting in the manual is 72-96 inch-lbs, which is very low. The result of putting too much torque on these nuts is to squash your exhaust gasket and give the gas a smaller hole to flow through, which of course will lose you power. The ideal torque is just enough to allow the header to seal on gasket.
The interesting thing about the studs is that they appear to be 5/16 UNF one end (the nut end) and 5/16 UNC on the head end. However... it is a variation of 5/16 UNC on the head end as although the major diameter and pitch are as you would expect, the minor diameter and thread angle are bigger. Don't know what I am talking about? Try running a nut down the coarse end... Anyway, as you have guessed, the large minor diameter interferes with the thread in the head to give the stud self locking properties...
And, finally, always use copa slip on the threads to give the nut the best chance of removal. The same goes for the stud when you replace it. |
Rudy
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 19, 2011 - 06:23 pm: |
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I removed my headers last summer and when I replaced them, I torqued them to the service manual specs (72-96 inch-lbs, I probably did 84 or so). When I went to take my headers off this fall, the nuts were LOOSE on the studs. I've been looking for some locknuts or something that I can use for reassembly that won't back off...or safety wire?
Pash: where do you get those nuts? Could you clarify what size / pitch they are?
I wouldn't mind saftey wiring the nuts, but I don't have a drill press.
Thanks |
Pash
| | Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 02:20 am: |
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Nuts are 5/16 UNF as Slaughter says in the second post on this thread. You should be able to get them from any motorsports outlet in the USA.
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p903/K-NUT-6-POI NT-5/16UNF/product_info.html
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-16-UNF-K-Nuts-race-cars-fo rmula-Ford-Hewland-/330519282165?pt=UK_CarsParts_V ehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cf47c01f5
or if you are into using 12 point sockets (these nuts hold together jet engines)...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&it em=130472801417&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT |
Fast1075
| | Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 05:43 am: |
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Exhaust pipe torque needs to be rechecked several times after repeated heat cycles. The gasket "settles" a bit.
If you use prevailing torque nuts, be sure to use anti-seize or they may not come back off. The 12 point nuts used with the correct socket are far less likely to strip as long as they dont rust up. |
Pash
| | Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 03:47 pm: |
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Here is a photo of spanner (wrench) and nut. They are the same fitting...
  
These are ovalised at the end rather than being triangulated (as the 6 sided ones are) and are silver plated as the silver acts as a high temperature dry lubricant...
http://www.ret-monitor.com/articles/1341/silver-pl ating-of-fasteners/
As for checking the nuts as a result of heat cycling, I agree that it is a good idea (and I would do it), however I have never heard of (standard) nuts falling off new bikes... |
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