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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through January 24, 2011 » How Hard To Remove/Install OEM Muffler « Previous Next »

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Rogue_biker
Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm thinking about ceramic coating my OEM muffler. In reading the Service Manual, it seems there are only two large bolts holding the muffler in place, plus the header connectors (4 bolts?). It seems simple but is it? I read somewhere it is a real biotch to put back on.

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?

No. I won't replace it with aftermarket muffler because I need the bike to remain relatively quiet. It also makes jacking up the front end simpler.
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Avalaugh
Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No need to remove headers ??

10 minute job once you have done it once.

I think someone did a how too, try doing a search on google ?
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Luisemilio25r
Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 04:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Four bolts plus the header clamps. Easy to remove. A bit harder to install. You will need a long extension. The front bolts that also hold the oil cooler are the hardest ones. One of the bolt has a nut that will spin if you don't hold it. The problem is there is not a lot of room there so you might have to use a screw driver just to prevent the nut from spinning. Also loosen up the left side bracket that holds the rear set and idler pulley. This will make it easier to lower the muffler. The reason for doing this is the rear set will clamp the muffler against the other rear set. Just loosen it up a few turns on the bolts. It's pretty simple. Good luck!
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D_adams
Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/171 43/608173.html?1292369405

Pictures and all.
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Rogue_biker
Posted on Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 06:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks!
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Crazyhawk99
Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 06:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hard? No. PITA? I say yes.

I know some have said it is pretty simple, but as stated, those oil cooler bolts are not easy to access and when you go to put it back on, the one that doesn't have a self retaining nut is not fun.

Do-able? You bet.

Just my 2 cents.
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Rex
Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nothing is as simple as it seems. there is always one bolt or nut you cannot reach, or it will not come out.
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Petebueller
Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 08:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is quicker after the first time but I wouldn't call it all that easy.

It is difficult to get a key on to the oil cooler bolt on the RH side. You can't get it on straight and mine was so tight that even a ball key wouldn't work. I ended up cracking it with a hex key that goes into a socket and turning it with vice grips.

The LH side front nut is the only one you need to put a spanner on. It is a small gap but the spanner fits through OK. You need to spray WD40 onto the thread because it collects all the junk from the front wheel. Maybe this is why the front RH was so tight first time.

The weight of the muffler makes it difficult. I now loosen everything off, take out the LH side bolts and support the muffler on my knees while I undo the RH.

I take a long time to refit it. Juggling the weight and trying to get the headers in without damaging the gaskets. You need to loosen off the LH rear pedal support bracket and the way the oil cooler and bracket can separate can make the front bolts difficult to get lined up.

The traps I've fallen into are dropping the front LH nut and having to pull the muffler off again to get it out from the space under the oil cooler (it was jammed tight between the curve of the muffler and muffler support bracket), and another time the RH rear nut wasn't centred in the crimped section in the muffler. When I tried to put in the bolt through the pulley it was screwing in beside the nut and not through the nut.
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Vinb
Posted on Friday, January 07, 2011 - 08:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After you get it off cut off the front left bracket and bolt up the oil cooler on that side now its a five minute job. This is what I did so I can swap my muffler out to go to the dealer. I can do a swap in under ten minutes now.
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Albert666
Posted on Friday, January 07, 2011 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

if you can a flexi head 13mm ratchet spanner that will help no end when it comes to the non captive nut on the oil cooler
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Dannybuell
Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy Please make this a 'new owners' thread---
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 01:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll add Dean's link above to it.

Personally, it took me about 3 months to remove and replace the exhaust. Most of it was on the replace part, not fun.
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Mountainstorm
Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use a long forceps (hemostat) to hold that one non-captive nut in place as I spin the bolt. I think once you have done it and see what's what it's not a big deal. You can usually salvage the header gaskets, but you need to be patient and get the muffler to line up.
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Daggar
Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used a crow's foot to hold the loose nut. Made it much easier.
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Rogue_biker
Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why not push the bolt through the holes, then hand thread the non-captive nut just enough so it won't fall off as you are turning the bolt?

Just a thought but I'm thinking that's not possible somehow.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 07:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the old muffler off and the new one on in an hour using my buddies shop full of tools. The 6mm hooked to a 1" wobbly extension hooked to a 5" wobbly extension, perfect for the right side oil cooler bracket with a header pipe in the way. The 13mm box was fine on the left side oil cooler bracket nut.

Excellent instructions Dean!
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