| Author | Message | ||
     Jdugger |
I thought I'd get some opinions on this. So, I have a cast Mg race wheel that has a spun bearing. The journal is junk. I took some measurements, and ordered some .025 shim stock in stainless steel, ended up grinding it down to about .023, and use it to fit the bearing. I cleaned up the journals with a wire brush, and fit the shim. The bearing pressed in TIGHT, just like one might expect if the journals weren't roached. The wheel spins true on the balancer. Anything to watch for in particular if I try and use this wheel? | ||
| D_adams |
Tough call on that one. Personally, I wouldn't put it on a customer bike like that, even if it spins true. Too much liability in the event of a failure. You said it spins true, where did you measure and what with? What was the TIR? I think the book spec says .020" is ok, I'd have to look though. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
i'd keep a very close eye for cracks emanating from the journal. true and round? i'd be more concerned with round than true in that type of event. if it were mine i'd ride it dunno if i'd race it though. prolly would after a few hundred miles of lighter duty work and very close inspections | ||
| Jdugger |
I didn't check for round. I can do that easily enough. The way I check for true is to use a dial-test-indicator on the balancing stand. Run out to me is a funny thing on these bikes. I check it at the hub and on the edge of the wheel. I'll bet NONE of our wheels are within .020 at the edge of the wheel. Shoot, a chip in the finish is easily .010 by itself. It sucks it's roached. I bought the wheel used from a guy here, had the bearings changed from chain drive to belt drive, and they came back loose. $500 down the toilet. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
yeah run out is a funny thing on cast wheels from anywhere. and as you pointed out a finish chip can and will through you off. so you'd want to check and i am sure they do before the powder is applied so it's not something to worry about. seriously i'd check for round and if it is then i'd street it for a bit keeping a very very close eye on the hub for any cracks or any further wallowing then do a few hot laps check again and go from there | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
one other thought would be use it on the dyno for a bit even before i street it | ||
| Jdugger |
That sounds like a plan. I've actually come to prefer checking for runout with the wheel on the bike, so doing a session on track, checking the run out, another session, runout, etc., is probably a good idea. While the balance stand is all right, it's not nearly as rigid and you do get some drift. I've noticed that shimming rotors a couple of times, and now I always do that on the bike, with the DTI magnetically clamped to the front fork tube. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
yeah i think it's one of those things where you'll just want to watch it closely. i am curious though do you have any knowledge of the conditions that led to the bearing and race being roached? | ||
| Jramsey |
How do you grind shim stock? surface grinder? Boring and sleeving the hub would be the only permanent fix. | ||
| Nillaice |
ive read that the blasts chew a bearing and is not un-common to be repaired with JB Weld. eitehr way is not perfect. how much might it cost to bore and sleeve? | ||
| Jdugger |
> Boring and sleeving the hub I'd argue my method was a Redneck version of the same thing. It's missing some of the precision, for sure. I have no idea what a bore and sleeve would cost, nor even who to contact to do it. | ||
| Littlebutquick |
i would and try it i seen wheels at the dealers that have had collapsed bearings that have still been ridden on .any think i do on my bike that i'm not sure about i just take a easy 1st pass | ||
| Fast1075 |
If there is enough material left, boring and sleeving would be stronger than the original. A good professional machinist can do the job. The J.B. weld is a pretty iffy fix..epoxy does not have much tolerance for impact. | ||
| Jramsey |
Boring and sleeving runs about $45 a side. | ||
| Xoptimizedrsx |
What Fast said. Take it to a machine shop with a good cnc mill. They can do the job correct for you. Shop cost varies. | ||
| Steeleagle |
Not sure if it's a good application, but I spun a bearing on my bicycle wheel and used Loctite 609 to fill the void created in the (expensive) aluminum hub. It's designed for cylindrical fits, but I can't vouch for it being appropriate for a motorcycle wheel bearing. If it was me...I'd probably try it, since it appears to be designed for that purpose, but the tech spec imply it's for smaller shafts/lower HP. It is limited on how big a void it will bridge. | ||
| Nillaice |
to me; 50 bucks sounds like the ticket for a MG wheel, and piece of mind. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Jim, is that one of the wheels you tried to sell me when I visited your track day? Just kidding. I guarantee I'd get it bored and sleeved if possible. I wouldn't attempt the shims. I had a bearing spin on the end of a shaft inside a large computer room air conditioner. I was told by the facility manager to try and shim the worn shaft and make it work. I had new parts on site, but he did not want to use them. I was able to make it work for a while. It was never as smooth as before it spun. That was just an AC unit. I would hate to try something like that on a motorcycle I was riding. I would not do it on MY motorcycle. | ||
| Dannybuell |
does the wheel have 3 bearings? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Loctite makes a product specifically for fixing loose press fits like this: http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_us/hs. xsl/product-search-1554.htm?iname=Loctite+640+Reta ining+Compound&countryCode=us&BU=industrial&parent redDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=0000000HZO | ||
| Jdugger |
> Jim, is that one of the wheels you tried to sell me when I visited your track day? Nah, this is a 17". Those I showed you are 16.5 forged Mg wheels. Actually way, way higher quality than the cast Buell race wheels. (and way, way lighter) | ||
| Jdugger |
It ain't the $50, it's finding a place to do it. I'd have split with $50 long ago if I knew a place to do it. I live in Dallas, you think the city would be crawling with machine shops, but I don't know any for this job. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Jim, I would contact these people. I have not dealt with them in many, many years, but back in the day they could fix or fabricate anything big or small. It looks like they are still around. They might not be cheap, though. Just explain what you have, and maybe they can fix it. http://www.fandrmachine.com/ | ||
| Pmjolly |
Jim, looking at the contact page of F and R machine's website, it looks like the company may have changed ownership. I knew Frank and Robert personally. That is why I recommended them. I had family working there. That was 15 or more years ago. If they still run it like they used to, I'm sure they can handle your project. I would still check and see if they can fix it. | ||
| Fast1075 |
That is really odd...I live in podunksville..and there are at least three machine shops that could fix it...but sadly my favorite machinist has passed...he could fix or make anything. He had a lathe with a 6 foot swing and 35 foot bed...he brought it back from Germany after the war...I remember it had a big swastica cast into the frame...he welded up and turned damaged ship prop shafts on it....and he made watches for a hobby... | ||
| Jdugger |
PM -- took the wheel by the machinist you mentioned. Turns out they are on the way home from the track, so I dropped the wheel off. Thanks for the lead. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Jim, who did you talk to, and what did they think about your wheel? | ||
| Pmjolly |
Jim, what did they say about your wheel? Who did you deal with? | ||
| Jdugger |
I still don't know who I spoke with, but I got a call yesterday and picked up the wheel. It had a nice insert/sleeve, and the bearing pressed in perfectly. So, I guess I'm good  Cost was $100. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Awesome! I don't mind paying a little more for quality work. Someone said it would be 50 bucks. I am in the service industry. I am a master electrician with more than 20 years experience. I know I cost more, but I also know what I'm doing. You get what you pay for in most cases. | ||
| Jdugger |
These guys were $75/hr with a $50 minimum. So, the charge was for just over an hour of machine time. That seems totally reasonable to me, honestly. The work was quality, too. Fit-up looks perfect. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
good deal glad you were able to get the machining done | ||
| Usanigel |
Great price for the work involved! | ||
| Ezblast |
Saves a wheel as well! EZ |
