Author |
Message |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, November 27, 2010 - 06:30 pm: |
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Thats classic ignition module. However (and I didnt read back through all the posts) commonly a bad kickstand switch can do this as well as the other safety switches. It could also be a loose wire/connection. Bypass the kickstand switch and flip the clutch diode. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, November 27, 2010 - 06:38 pm: |
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........forgot to also mention the bank angle sensor (another safety switch) as turning off the ignition resets it. (2000 Blasts didnt have a BAS and its remotely possible that some 2001's dont have one either.) |
Torqupine
| Posted on Saturday, November 27, 2010 - 07:25 pm: |
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Stuff seems to work alot better without safety gear, huh? So, if it happens again I just need to turn it off and back on to get it going again? Are those switches pretty easy to bypass? Work done so far on the bike: replaced piston, exhaust valve, and all gasket from the cylinder up. Cleaned and rejetted carb to match Jardine exhaust. It wasn't having this problem before I did the work. Is the problem related to any of this work? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, November 27, 2010 - 09:07 pm: |
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Kick stand switch - cut and twist wires together, clutch - flip center diode, make sure plug wire and connection good on both sides and that plug is good. Should be golden. If not - ignition. EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 12:38 am: |
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Clutch diode flip: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html?1288162475 Not likely related to the work unless maybe you forgot to put the ground strap back on. |
Torqupine
| Posted on Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 03:46 pm: |
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haven't had a chance to go for a long ride since flipping the diode and nipping the kickstand switch, but if the problem persists I'll need to fix the ignition module. Last time it died, but then started right up and ran fine, is it okay to still ride it in this condition? I mean, will it continue to work fine after it is turned off then back on, or will the problem continue to get worse until it's un-ridable, leaving me stranded somewhere? Will it damage the bike to ride it like that? Also, is it still part #32687-00YA, and is that readily available? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 05:18 pm: |
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Not likely to do any damage, but it is remotely possible. If its the module it could go that way for years or just stop working. It would be helpful if you had more symptoms. The BAS (bank angle sensor) is the only safety switch that resets itself when the ignition is turned off. The fact that your symptoms seem to do this exactly concerns me. Remove the timing cover and check for the LED flashing when the bike dies BEFORE you shut the ignition off. If nothing until the ignition is switched off its very possible its a bad BAS. You can check it with a test light by seeing if the power from the BAS to the ignition is off when your bike dies. Its 3 wires, so its not that complicated. Not that hard to bypass either. Ign. module still available |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 10:51 pm: |
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Yeah - I checked everything else before I changed ignitions, when nothing else worked, then you know its probably the ignition. EZ |
Torqupine
| Posted on Friday, December 03, 2010 - 03:49 pm: |
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okay, i believe I've located the BAS ~ little black box under the seat, behind battery on the right side with a three wire plug ~ what is the bypass procedure? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, December 03, 2010 - 09:27 pm: |
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You'll have to use a test light and wiring diagram to figure it out. Unbolt the BAS. Turn the bike on and test the wires for power. Turn the BAS over and see which wire loses power. Then connect the BAS power wire with the wire that just lost power. Sorry, but I never wrote down which wires to tie together It'll take a little time, but shouldnt be too difficult to figure out. If I have time I'll look at the wiring diagram. FWIW: "We" bypassed the BAS internally by soldering part of the BAS circuit board together. That way it still looked stock, but not its really important to do it that way.... |
Sycho
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 12:39 am: |
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Hey is it okay to pull the bottom of the Carburetor off to change jets without removing the whole thing off the bike? I know there will probably a bit of fuel in there but I'm pretty sure I remember Jprovo doing it before on my bike. |
Roblast
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 12:47 am: |
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You can do it, for sure. I did. Just turn off the petcock & run the bike until it stops to use up as much fuel as it can that's in the carb bowl. Pull the bowl STRAIGHT DOWN so you don't tweak the float. It's easy.... |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 01:21 am: |
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Concur - lol - famous last words. EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 09:39 am: |
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......and use a good, well fitting or new condition screwdriver to get the slow jet out. That pretty much goes for all carb work. You dont want to have to drill stripped screws out of a carb. |
Sycho
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 09:55 pm: |
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{....and use a good, well fitting or new condition screwdriver to get the slow jet out } Umm, what was that? |
Sycho
| Posted on Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 09:56 pm: |
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As you can see I screwed up.. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 12:25 am: |
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The main jet is a lot easier to get out if you strip it. If you stripped the slow jet, well....it'll make that Y-frame seem like childs play! What did you change the main too? Did you change the slow jet? |
Sycho
| Posted on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 02:10 am: |
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I found a Yost tube on E-bay so I figured, why not?, since I was messin around with other stuff. |
Torqupine
| Posted on Wednesday, December 08, 2010 - 03:07 pm: |
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I think I might have found the problem...the hose from my tank valve was pinched under the tank. When I unpinched it, there was a hissof vapor escaping. I'm thinking it created a vacuum in the tank, slowing the rate of fuel being delivered to the carb, killing the bike at higher speeds. What do you think? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, December 08, 2010 - 03:32 pm: |
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Yes. If you heard a hiss, that was very likely the problem. It would also get worse the lower the level of fuel in the tank got. If it didnt cause a problem, it would've eventually. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, December 08, 2010 - 03:37 pm: |
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http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=& item=TOP_29216 One of these works well and it wont leak gas. They can go bad however, but its just a simple removal and the problem is solved. |
Torqupine
| Posted on Wednesday, December 08, 2010 - 04:53 pm: |
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excellent That's a much cheaper fix than a new ignition module. I plan on a long ride this weekend, I'll let you know how it goes |
Sycho
| Posted on Thursday, December 09, 2010 - 12:47 am: |
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Hey EZ, or anybody else that may have some insight. I installed a carb splitter and a yost power tube recently in hopes of improving gas mileage. Was I wrong? or do I need to rejet the mainjet from 175 to ???. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, December 09, 2010 - 01:17 am: |
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No need to rejet for either. EZ |
Sycho
| Posted on Thursday, December 09, 2010 - 01:48 am: |
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But my question is... do I need to do away with one of these mods for better mileage? It seems to have dropped below 50 mpg. I did the splitter mod first and mileage was still in the 55 and above range. Now with the power tube it's dropped and I'm just wondering if I should just do without the power tube. It's not that much, or maybe I just don't notice much of an improvement in power and acceleration. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, December 09, 2010 - 06:56 pm: |
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Hmmm - what plug are you running? Together the two should actually make you just a tiny bit leaner due to more equally distributed fuel, and if you are jetting at the usual tad rich setting that we recommend here usually, then you should be fine, always worse gas mileage in the winter - that's the way winter gas works out for motorcycles - from all I've read. EZ |
Swampy
| Posted on Thursday, December 09, 2010 - 07:49 pm: |
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Yeah! What do you know about winter?....LOL I would think that with the Power tube you are now running too rich. how does your plug look? I have not seen much better than 50 MPG with the Blast jetted where it runs good. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, December 09, 2010 - 11:39 pm: |
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LOL - I get around 45 if I'm mellow that week - lol - the Yost tube mists/vaporizes the fuel causing a more complete even burn - like modern fi of today does. I ask about the plug, because an old regular plug won't take advantage of this like a street or racing style iridium plug would. So maybe not as noticeable except on colder days. Yes I know nothing of real winters anymore, but I do learn from experts like you Swampy! EZ |
Sycho
| Posted on Friday, December 10, 2010 - 01:24 am: |
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Hi Ed, the plug I'm running is an Iridium but not the racing one. I haven't checked it yet. Before I did the splitter and yost tube I was getting in the range of 55-58mpg. That's with a V&H pipe Dan's superboot and recommended jetting and shimmed needle. I ran the splitter for about two weeks and mpg went down but only by approx. 2-3 mpg. But now it's at a dismal low 40 mpg. Don't get me wrong I like how it seems to get to 70mph quicker now but I was kinda hoping on better gas mileage due to a more efficient burn. And Swampy it's always fun to let my relative's in Mich. know how cold our winter days are, as we are currently due for some upper 70's to low 80's this Dec. weekend,lol. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, December 10, 2010 - 11:43 pm: |
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Yeah - brrrrrrrrrr! - just the thought! - your gas mileage should not go that far down, bring your air needle in a few flats, it really could be Cali winter gas and the fact they upped the booze content of winter gas as well - seems everyone's gas mileage is going down a bit because of that. http://www.google.com/search?client=gmail&rls=gm&q =us%20gas%20mileage%20going%20down%20-%20why%3F EZ |