| Author |
Message |
    
Bassettkyle
| | Posted on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 10:10 pm: | 
|
Followed the process to a tee, same knock... Drives me crazy... |
Pmjolly
| | Posted on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 11:05 pm: |
|
Oops, I will now go back and torque the cap nut again, this time with the wheel on the ground.  |
Misterrich
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 01:19 pm: |
|
In response to Avalaugh's post. (Very much doubt they replaced them for $50, they cost that without labour ! Would think they just loosened and re-torqued them.)
Yes they did replace them for only 50 bucks. I had to wait a couple weeks for the parts to come in. I was expecting to pay much more but for some reason they only charged me the 50. My bike was out of warranty and i dont know why it was so cheap but i wasn't going to argue. |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 05:38 pm: |
|
Just loosen all the top triple clamp pinch bolts, not the lower ones! |
Duphuckincati
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 09:16 pm: |
|
Thanks Anon, I was wondering. Read that lower bolts thing on here elsewhere, and like some other things I've read here and checked with Erik Buell Racing and got the correct answer. Not that I don't fully love everyone here, but some of them are shall we say, confused. Glad you're keeping a watch here. |
Duphuckincati
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 09:18 pm: |
|
Also, just the top clamp makes that a LOT easier since you don't have to remove the pods to get to the lowers. |
Bueller4ever
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 17, 2010 - 05:14 am: |
|
You can get to the lowers without removing the pods. You just need a slim head torque wrench. |
Pmjolly
| | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 12:23 am: |
|
I have a busy schedule, so I will not mess with it until this weekend, even though it will only take a little while to do it. I have not and will not ride it since I torqued it with the wheel off the ground. I understand I should not loosen the bottom clamps. I did loosen them the first time at the advise of others here. I do have a service manual, and was wondering why it did not mention to lift the wheel off the ground. The explanation from Anonymous makes perfect sense. I guess we all live and learn. |
Thunderbike
| | Posted on Thursday, November 18, 2010 - 05:27 pm: |
|
I'm sorry if I confused anyone.The tips I gave you was for replacing the bearings,as I thought it would be helpful if "adjusting"does'nt do the trick.And as stated before if anyone has seen the bearings,tell me what is being adjusted.DO NOT BE TEMPTED,to torque past 40 ft.lbs thinking it will take out the knock.
danny |
Avalaugh
| | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2010 - 01:42 pm: |
|
Misterrich, just because you waited 2 weeks doesn't mean they replaced them, the dealer network is seriously flawed. There are a few good garages out there, honest and knowledgeable, but most are lying, mis-informed and under trained in out bikes.
I hope you got yours replaced for $50, i always ask to see the old parts, and when possible i mark them before hand.
Trust no dealer...... |
Pmjolly
| | Posted on Sunday, November 21, 2010 - 10:25 pm: |
|
I re-torqued the steering head bearings again with the wheel on the ground this weekend. I took it out for a ride today. The unstable feeling is gone. It feels rock solid again. I believe the bearings were just a little loose. The clicking noise in the front end remains. The clicking is something in the front forks. It clicks on rebound after compression with or without the brakes. |
Xtreme6669
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 10:00 am: |
|
I have the same noise in my forks too... I've checked and even re greased the head bearings a couple times to make sure... |
Luisemilio25r
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 11:03 am: |
|
Those bearings are sealed, how did you grease them? Did you remove the lip seal? I still don't get how a lot of people are talking about re torquing or adjusting the steering head bearings. Is like saying that you need to adjust your wheel bearings or swingarm pivot bearings. Please somebody explain it to me. |
Pmjolly
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 - 04:19 pm: |
|
Luisemilio25r, loosen the cap nut a couple of turns, take it for a ride, and you will see what is being talked about. I don't know if the bearings wore a little, or just seated in. I don't have very high mileage. Loosening then re-torquing them fixed the 'loosness' I was experiencing. It never was 'notchy' so I don't think there was any damage. I have had a Kawasaki with a head bearing develop a notch and get loose in an upper race. I know how it feels. This was doing the same thing. |
Thefleshrocket
| | Posted on Friday, December 10, 2010 - 02:47 pm: |
|
Is it just the chromed 9mm Allen at the top of the triple that should be torqued to 40 ft-lbs? I took off the top of the triple expecting to see a nut under there that needed to be tightened (a la pretty much every other sportbike I've tinkered with) but there's nothing. |
Boogiman1981
| | Posted on Friday, December 10, 2010 - 03:36 pm: |
|
yup that's the one the chromed 9mm allen is the nut itself. |
Thefleshrocket
| | Posted on Friday, December 10, 2010 - 04:01 pm: |
|
Thanks, Boogi! |
Thefleshrocket
| | Posted on Saturday, December 11, 2010 - 08:17 pm: |
|
Tightening the steering head bolt to 40 ft lbs had a positive effect. I ran the bike up through the gears at full throttle several times and only got a tiny bit of headshake while shifting into 2nd one time. I don't know that my 1125 is stable enough for me to feel like it doesn't need a damper (it'll take some decent weather and some backroads miles to make the decision), but the improvement is noticeable nonetheless. |
Bassettkyle
| | Posted on Monday, March 21, 2011 - 11:17 pm: |
|
Sorry to start this topic up again but reading all these comments people talk both about bearing replacement and it is just a knock in the fork. Mine is real loud, it seems to knock when I pull up on the bike. I have retorked the head many time and it never gets better.
How big of a job is changing the bearings? It may be worth a try. Anyone already document it? Special tools required?
Any other idea's, don't like driving with this knocking noise.
Thanks |
Fz911
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2014 - 06:53 pm: |
|
hi guys, I know im like 3 years late here and I would assume that everybodys cleared this up but after a little search I came across this post, I know ive read it before a while back when I was first looking for 'the click', my bike developed a click after about 6 months of riding, I suspected headstock bearings and readjusted them, no change, I then stripped the forks down and changes all of the internals, no change, the only parts I didn't change were the compression damper, (not available). the noise remains.
so I can only deduce that the noise comes from here, ive just learned to live with the click, now onto the reason for me being here:
late last year I noticed the bike was drifting slightly and didn't handle so well, I discovered what seemed to be a notch in the head bearings, i parked the bike up for a while and forgoit about it until 2 weeks ago, the notch had gone worse, so I decided to change them, I bought some off ebay which were a taper roller upgrade, got my bike up on the bench and stripped it down, took out my lower bearing which seemed fine then the top which was grinding, I opened the pack for my new bearings and hey presto, they were wrong, just standard tuber head bearings, so I greased the old ones up, yes, I did, I had no choice, but for the record the seal just flips out, inside I discovered rusty balls with no grease, so I sprayed a bit of brake cleaner in there, packed it up with grease, spun it a couple of hundred times with my thumb till the worst of the rust mixed with the grease and the bollies looked silver again, emptied the grease out and put more in, put the seal back on and put it all back together.
when I built it back up, I torqued the top nut (which is 'not' a 9mm, but a 3/8 allen key) with the bottom clamp loose as the book says, you cant do it with the top clamp loose as people have suggested as there is a locator circlip near the top that stops the forks sliding too far up thru the clamps, this would also stop the clamp going down while re-torqing the top nut, the correct procedure is with the bottom clamps loose.
anyway, id imagine my click is still there despite me retorqing and greasing, I don't really listen to it anymore, its irrelevant to the performance id imagine and will stay there until the bottom adjusters are replaced if they ever become available.
the headstock bearings however, will be replaced again at my earliest opportunity, or whenever I can find somebody who sells them at a price less than Harley Davidson want to charge.
hope this helps someone somewhere down the line
 |
|
