| Author | Message | ||
     Dmuz |
I'm about to roll up to 5K miles on my XB9S-L and just had the TPS re-zeroed. I intend to do all the other services myself. I've already been changing the oil and done other projects on the bike. So here's the question: What will I need to adjust the primary chain? New trany cover gasket? I got charged for one by HD on my 1K service) Is a new one really necessary or can I reuse the old one? I know on my old Honda, I learned that I could never reuse a particular gasket because after being compressed once it would never seal again after being removed. So I'd rather buy a new one than have leaks. Input? 1 quart Mobile-1 synthetic 75w/90 gear oil? Is this the right exact amount or will I need a little more?... a little less? How to adjust the primary chain tensioner? Tools needed? Pictures/diagrams from the shop manual anyone can post? This isn't fully described in the little manual they give you with the bike. Is this just on or two nuts to loosen and slide an assembly and then re-tighten? What should the chain slack be?... measured from where? Should I use a torque wrench? Torque specification? Fork jack to keep bike level? The manual says bike must be level at all times. Is a fork jack *really* necessary? It wasn't for just changing the oil, but if the bike must be upright to keep from pouring the trany juice on the ground, so be it. Any other tools, supplies or info I'd need? I hate getting halfway into a job to find I'm missing a piece of the puzzle and then loose a day to the work. THANKS IN ADVANCE... | ||
| Darthane |
OK - First off, you don't need any 'special' tools. Just a couple wrenches, a T27 Torx bit, and your eyeballs. You will not need a new primary gasket unless you remove the primary cover, which is not necessary to adjust the primary chain. The adjustment can be done with the bike on the sidestand, although personally whenever I do anything on the bike I like having it up on a swingarm stand. To do it properly you will need to be able to move the chain, which pretty much means that the rear wheel needs to be off the ground unless you want to scoot it all over the place. I can't scan anything, but I'll give you as good a description as possible: Remove the primary chain inspection cover. It's the smallest cover in the primary cover, just above the shift knob. Check the tension through the inspection hole. Cold, it should be between 3/8"-1/2". Hot, it should be between 1/4"-3/8". Check it at several points in the chain by spinning the back wheel with the bike in gear. The torque spec for the inspection cover is 40-60in/lbs (5-7Nm). If it needs adjustment - The adjustment fastener is located just rear of the kickstand mount in the bottom of the primary cover. Loosen the locknut. Turn the fastenerclockwise to reduce freeplay. Turn it counterclockwise to increase free play. Remember to check it multiple times. When adjusted, tighten the locknut to 20-25ft/lbs (27-34Nm). All done. As far as tranny fluid, you should fill it to the bottom of the clutch plate. I can't describe that in any way that would make sense, but siffice to say that 30oz should be just about right for a XB tranny. The Mobil 1 75W90 is nice stuff, if you're just putting it in now, there should be an increase in ease of shifting for you. Mine's a lot smoother since the switch. Bryan | ||
| Dmuz |
Bryan, DUDE, thanks! Printing your post now. This is the first time I'm putting in the synth for the trany because I *thought* I was being careful by letting the dealer in South Austin do my 1K service... I got the bike home to find oil spilled all over my muffler, the oil tank overfilled and bolts left loose. Anyhow, you get the idea. Just to make sure I got it. The outside plate that you take off just to see into the trany and fill... you don't need a new gasket to put that back on and get a good seal is what you are saying, right? Thanks, Damon | ||
| Darthane |
No problem, Damon. We're here to help. I'm sure they'd tell you to get a new one, but no, unless it's damaged you shouldn't need a new one. The chain inspection cover gasket is probably good for a long time, there is no sitting fluid that high in the case, so lessh chance of leaking in any event. The clutch inspection cover, as long as it's in good shape, should be fine. There is an updated version of that cover/gasket, though, if you don't have it you might want to get it. The old one was a plastic cover with a rubber gasket, the new one is an aluminum cover with a steel-pressed gasket. Should run about $25 for both. Bryan | ||
| 99buellx1 |
I would advise that if you are trying to save some money and abuse from your dealership by trying to do some maintenance work at home, that it is well worth the money to get a service manual. All the info for torque specs, pictures, fluid levels, instructions, scematics, and more are in there. Well worth the money to just have around to answer questions when tinkering around. (also handy to figure out how that damn spring goes back in once it shoots acoss the shop!)  Craig Buell Cycle Center  | ||
| Dmuz |
Thanks again, Bryan. Very good point, Craig... and the particular model number on the 2003 XB9S manual would be ______? (I'm sure I've seen it in other threads somewhere on the XBoard. My S is a "Low" if that makes any difference. Cheers, Damon | ||
| Court |
Damon: The "Low" makes no difference, but RUN DON'T WALK to get the manual. If you e-mail me, I'll get the number off mine at home tonight. Court | ||
| Newfie_buell |
The manual is worth its weight in gold, if your doing your own service. | ||
| Buckinfubba |
Damon The part # for the manual is 99490-03Y. The price is $58 minus your 10% bad web discount makes it $52.20. I have one I could ship it to you if you need. Brian Tilley hd/buell 704-872-3883 buckinfubba@hotmail.com | ||
| Ezblast |
Right on! | ||
| Dmuz |
Thanks Brian!  |
