Author |
Message |
Renzo750
| Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 08:43 pm: |
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Thanks Dan, I did the ground wire on the VR trick...I ran mine from the mount bolt to the battery terminal. Took a 50 mile ride spending WAY to much time looking at my volts output...at start up I was reading 14.3 (full battery)(normal 14.0)...My volts stayed well above 13 for most of my ride, in fact most of the time I was at 13.7 or higher...the only time I saw a VERY brief flash of my BATT light was at a stop sign after 10 miles of a slow "lake" road (read about 12.0)...as I got on the HWY I was right back to 13+ seems anything above 4000 RPM's sustained keeps the volts above 13. After 50 miles I pulled into the driveway reading 14.1!!! |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 08:54 pm: |
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I am happy to help. Time will tell. :-) |
Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 08:58 pm: |
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Link to pics please |
Bad_boy
| Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 09:00 pm: |
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I had new stator installed last week and when i got home the Battery Volt was 12.1 I installed the ground wire from the VR to the frame and I stay in the high 13s and 14.1 - 14.2 I ride every day so time will tell. |
Duphuckincati
| Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 09:45 pm: |
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Me too!!! Thanks!!!!!!!!!! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 10:08 pm: |
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Yes - thank you - a link to the original topic - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/601021.html?1288735221 EZ |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 12:15 am: |
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1125cr is the person who started/shared this! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/601431.html?1288005217 |
Renzo750
| Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 12:34 am: |
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Thanks Dan, I sent him a thank you tonight...I think it's great that 1125CR took the time to post a photo to be clear on how easy it really is to do...It makes sense when you think of heat/vibration degrading the "paste" ground to an alum. sub frame...I like the idea of going to the battery...just seems a simple and positive (weak pun intended) location to route to. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 12:57 am: |
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If it gets reverse grounded some how,that second ground to the battery would guarantee a fried starting/charging system - the battery going through a breaker properly, protecting said system - hopefully - a ground to sub-frame would be better. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on November 03, 2010) |
Dktechguy112
| Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 02:57 am: |
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Ezblast, How does the system get reverse grounded? And the ground the op is talking about is not a ground to the battery, it is a ground to the sub frame. |
Lucky_jim
| Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 08:34 am: |
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So just to be clear, it still went down to 12V? I live in a high traffic area, I have no hope with the harness |
Renzo750
| Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 10:24 am: |
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It did, but only for a moment at the stop sign. One thing that IS troubling is that for the first 2000 miles I NEVER saw a BATT light, of course I ddin't watch my volts either...I do know some Ducatis will flash a battery light at low RPM's...as for now anyway I'm happy with the result. I plan to tack a longer ride (2-300 mile) this weekend and will report my findings. (harness update was done at 412 miles) |
Poppawheelie
| Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 06:50 pm: |
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I did the same thing to my XB when the VR was going out, really does help! |
Milleniumx1
| Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 08:07 pm: |
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I installed the ground wire from the upper VR mounting bolt to the subframe bolt just in front of the battery. Not sure I needed it, but why not?! Mike |
Reducati
| Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 09:42 pm: |
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i think the harness update is suppose to shut down the voltage when hot, ie, idling, low rpm...to keep it cooler...so not sure if this is really the answer |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 11:43 pm: |
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As long as its not attached to the battery ground, should be fine. Whats encouraging to me is the higher average voltage sustained while riding. EZ |
Dktechguy112
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 01:18 am: |
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Reducati, This is a ground for the voltage regulator. The harness shuts one of the three legs of the stator off which reduces the heat the stator produces at low rpms, and keeps it from overheating. Many people think part of the stator problem is the voltage regulator, more specifically that the voltage regulator can't dissipate the heat it receives from the stator, so this extra ground wire helps it dissipate excess power. |
Easttroy
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 02:54 am: |
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Ground is needed by the VR to provide a place to drop the voltage across the IC or resister (depending on the VR) so that when the drop occurs, a constant voltage is provided to the battery. Think of it this way. Imaging you have a water hose hooked up to a fire hydrant. Suddenly the hose gets loose from you and is swaying around randomly, but for some reason or another, you are able to capture the hose and provide a more stable direction to the hose. This is basically what is happening when the ground is floating at the VR. It's not stable and the voltage doesn't have a chance to have the consistency as the manufacturer expected. If the ground is floating the voltage where the ground should be can be anything, causing the VR to not behave as expected ( hence the water hose example ). |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 05:03 am: |
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Dktech - you're confusing electrical grounding with better thermal contact. Both involve physical contact, but two different energies. OEM tries to accomplish both with the mounting bolts and large area contact. I expect thermal paste is impairing the electrical connection in some installations, improved with an extra ground wire. Grounding with a wire will have no influence on cooling, other than remove the resistance of a poor connection. Thermal bonding can also improve electrical grounding but usually needs an extra step or two. EZ - Not really "reverse" ground but "alternate" ground, also called backfeeding. eg. Take a starter circuit, lots of current so the electrical conductors are large and connections must be tight. If the ground for the starter is NOT optimum, the current will FIND alternate paths, often thru a piece that can't handle the current and you release magic smoke. This added ground wire looks like it addresses an inadequate ground causing the R/R to float. Grounding better ensures the regulator has a good reference and target voltage. Z |
Dktechguy112
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 12:25 pm: |
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thanks for clearing that up guys. I am a computer engineering student, just taking the basics, but i am excited to learn about all this! |
Renzo750
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 06:05 pm: |
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Not that I understand backfeeding in detail...I've seen smoking ground wires on old Brit bikes by contacting the battery to the seat pan, but today in discussing the VR issue with my dealers 1125 expert adding the ground to the battery was felt to be the best (most positive) location. In Minnesota we have many fiberglass and wood boats using modern electrical systems and in those cases the battery will often have many ground wires attached. Just adding to the discussion, not trying to convince anybody whats best...I just know my bike is happy with the added ground. (Message edited by renzo750 on November 04, 2010) |
Milleniumx1
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 06:44 pm: |
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Not that Zac needs my endorsement, but his post is spot on accurate. I tried to learn a thing or two back in my EE days with the US Air Force, but probably forgot too much of it (blame that on alcohol) since. But no matter the technological advances, some things always come back to the basics! Mike |
Anonymous
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 10:32 pm: |
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I hate to break it to you guys but technically speaking you aren't doing a darn thing. I know people are going to call BS and say I am wrong but as speaking as someone who has seen the actual print for the voltage regulator, the VR's case is not grounded to the internal circuitry. We would not have blasted the face of the VR with thermal grease if we needed a good contact to the frame for grounding. Food for thought as well, if the case is grounded, why did we add the 10awg ground wire going into the VR? I know this is going to piss many of you off but I at least wanted to present the information for people to know. BTW does the stator harness work? Yes. The data backs it up. Is it a craptastic solution? Absolutely. It killed us that we had to put together such a crappy solution but we had no choice, HD wouldn't invest any money into a better stator given they decided to kill us. PS, you won't be seeing the 09/10 stator in the 1190 since that is the what is causing the issues. It is the overheating due to lack of oil getting to it during low RPM. It is not the VR. Flame on. |
Anonymous
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 10:34 pm: |
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PS- For further proof it isn't the VR, the 08 VR is the same as the 09/10VR. You would be seeing the same problems on the 08 if it was the VR. |
Naiguy
| Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 11:33 pm: |
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ok then riddle me this batman I had a complete charging system failure last Friday see my I think my vr failed thread. my bike blew the head light bulb woudnt not charger battery at stops and ic went out with system voltage error and when it would come on would spike voltage up to 16v. today I hook up ground wire like in pic of first thread and then magical everything is more stable then ever. The case of the vr is its insulator unless something has failed internaly shorting to the case? could the relay in the harness be the shady character in the mix? |
Easttroy
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 12:36 am: |
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Naiguy, You got an over voltage, again because the ground was floating. I'd be interested to see whether the ground is fixing it because of it's location or not. Maybe that leg of your harness has a ground close to where the VR is and the additional ground near the VR is helping keep the drop constant WRT the output voltage of the stator, so you then have the 14.xx volts instead of more or less. |
Dreso1021
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 12:39 am: |
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All the electrical talk lately is making me dizzy. I wish I was half smart enough to understand it haha |
Easttroy
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 01:12 am: |
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In reviewing my 1125 electrical manual, I did notice that the VR has both a electrical and a earth ground shown on the diagram. it didn't dawn on me until I saw this: "The voltage regulator converts the A/C voltage with a rectifier". If there is ANY floating ground, then all bets are off with rectification. It has to have a "zero" to be able to rectify the voltage correctly and if it floats, we'd be seeing exactly what we are seeing with this issue. It might be just that simple or it could need a new VR to solve the problem, depending on whether the new ground does fix the issue or not. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 01:51 am: |
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IDK anything, HD electrics have historically been weak. Given Buell's HD parentage this weakness could have been predicted. My Erik Buell Racing ECM with it's 'higher break even point' is a poor device for street use. Anon--"It is the overheating due to lack of oil getting to it during low RPM..." Perhaps some ME's can address this oil flow problem with another external oil line going to the stator to keep it cool and happy. |
Stimbrell
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 03:17 am: |
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Thank you for the information Anon. So the real answer is a rewound stator done to a higher quality ? From what you say HD should really be fitting new stators when the harness is fitted to bikes that have been used as the stator is highly likely to already be damaged by that time. Also for those with the race ecm the fans link to battery voltage can be turned back on in tunerpro. |