| Author | Message | ||
     1125rcya |
I have a build up on my back rotor. I just bought a dremel and was looking at the attachments that come with this tool. One of the attachments is a wire wheel. Question; Is there a attachment for he dremel that would be safe and efficient way to clean and lightly remove lines from the break rotor? At this point it cant hurt my back rotor because it is useless. New breaks on it and once their warm I can't even lock the back tire by standing on the brake! (Message edited by 1125rcya on October 31, 2010) | ||
| Skntpig |
Save your money on the dremel. This should fix it... http://www.EBRacing.com/shop/product5.html | ||
| Usanigel |
I know what you mean with the rear brake being useless! Best way to clean the disc/rotor is next time you replace the tire, remove the disc and use a random orbit sander to both sides flat on a table (not moms best). Use 150 grit. You also need to clean or replace the pads. Clean the caliper too. Next is the dirt just brake dust of is it mostly exhaust fumes? I don't know if the little turnout tubes help any with keeping the brakes clean. I too wish the rear brake worked! | ||
| Jdugger |
Rear brake works just fine for what it's intended to do. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
skntpig, That rotor says it works on the chain drive bikes, but it doesn't say it works on the belt drive bikes. | ||
| 1125rcya |
Are the those stretch screws that hold the rear brake rotor in? I'm going to half a$$ sand the brake rotor while its attached. I read the same thing about the E BR wave rotor. Not sure of it works for the chain only application because the swing arm is different and the brake caliper mounts at a different spot. I Thanks for 411 | ||
| Skntpig |
Mine works fine but I didn't see a problem with the stock rotor. My rear brake makes the back slide too much so I only use the front unless I'm not braking hard. I thought I was going to have to fab a new mount because the pad doesn't contact the whole rotor but haven't seen an issue. It makes removing the rear tire harder because there isn't a hole to get the caliper bolts out. You have to remove the axle, then drop the wheel a few inches, remove caliper bolts, then you can get the wheel off. Reverse for install. I'm not suggesting the brake is 100% correct for use with the stock swingarm so I would ask e b r before purchasing.  | ||
| Petebueller |
They say they are fine for stock XB and 1125 bikes. Not sure if you can undo the caliper with them on so you may need to loosen the rotor off before you crack the axle. | ||
| Jdugger |
When I change tires, I leave the caliper in place. There's an upward + twist motion you can use to pull the wheel without dropping the caliper. If you are worried about the cosmetics of your wheel, just put some blue tape on the backside of the caliper. | ||
| Petebueller |
When I loosen off the axle the wheel gets pulled forward on the cones toward the belt side. I think this is the reason that the workshop manual says to remove the caliper before removing the wheel. Otherwise the rotor is twisting in the caliper which isn't good for either of them. | ||
| Xodot |
There's an upward + twist motion you can use to pull the wheel without dropping the caliper That's good info to have - thanks again Jdugger  | ||
| Benzo_mike |
Purple Power will clean the exhaust crud and other junk off that rotor in a way that has to be seen to be believed. It just melts it off and takes the rotor back to shiny bare metal. Really quite amazing. Do your best to keep it off the pads, etc. | ||
| Petebueller |
I just checked the manual and for a belt change there is mention of loosening the caliper. My workshop recommends it and I've always done it but the factory doesn't see a need. | ||
| 03fatboy |
"I don't know if the little turnout tubes help any with keeping the brakes clean." I have them on my bike and it makes a huge difference. No crud on the wheel or brake caliper. Before I had them on there and I can't say what caused it but guessing dirt and exhaust carbon my back caliper seized. I was lucky and it seized in the unlocked position. | ||
| Swoop |
IF ITS JUST CARBON AND BRAKE DUST USE K&N AIR FILTER CLEANER, IT WORKS LIKE A DREAM | ||
| 1125rcya |
Are the those stretch screws that hold the rear brake rotor in? I'm going to half a$$ sand the brake rotor while its attached. I read the same thing about the E BR wave rotor. Not sure of it works for the chain only application because the swing arm is different and the brake caliper mounts at a different spot. I Thanks for 411 | ||
| Petebueller |
EB Racing let me on-sell a few rotors. I checked with them first and they fit XBs and 1125s with belt drives. I've tested one on my bike and sold a few and they work well. They are a really neat little rotor. They take different screws to the stock ones and you can order these from them at the same time. Their part number for the screws is AA0507.12CBL. It is a bit hidden on the Chassis page where the have all of the swingarm stuff. Verify for yourself (so don't sue me if I'm wrong) but the advice I got from an engineer is that with loctite blue the bolts should be torqued to 22-23 ft-lb. The standard mounting bolts have dry threadlock with greater thread resistance which is why they need a higher torque. | ||
| Petebueller |
Back to brake cleaning. I used to use emery and water to clean the dust off the rotors. I bought a can of Motortech Brake Cleaner to check my throttlebody and ended up trying it on the rotors. It worked well. It is designed to clean pads as well so that wasn't a worry. (Message edited by Petebueller on November 02, 2010) | ||
| Froggy |
The belt is nowhere near the brake caliper, you would not need to remove that to change a belt. I tried Jdugger's lift and wiggle trick to avoid removing the caliper for a tire change, but couldn't figure it out. | ||
| Petebueller |
The reason my workshop recommends loosening off the caliper is that the rotor is parallel to the wheel and the caliper is fixed on the swingarm. When the axle is cracked the wheel moves forward on the belt side and they believe that it is possible to bend the rotor or damage the caliper if there is no give between them. The EB Racing rotor is a nice rotor but it is held on 3 arms instead of 6. They could be easier to twist. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
you gotta be patient and prolly a little more rough with it than you may think or want to be. but i didn't notice any scratches or anything after i did mine for Betty's new shoes. then again im used to it being a pita coming from a shaft drive honda... | ||
| Jdugger |
> I tried Jdugger's lift and wiggle trick to avoid removing the caliper for a tire change, but couldn't figure it out. I'll video it next time and show you. It took me a few tries to work it out, but now that I know the motion, it's "accidental" and just happens. | ||
| Al_lighton |
FWIW...I have removed my 1125R wheel easily without removing the caliper. But when I tried the same thing on a bud's 1125CR, it didn't work. Different swingarm, different pulley, it just wouldn't cooperate getting it out without removing the caliper. Al | ||
| Geforce |
The only time I've cleaned mine I used a very light sand paper and simply scuffed the entire disc clean by hand. I then put the new pads on and proceeded to perform the brake-in procedures... no pun intended. "I too wish the rear brake worked!" Hmmm... define work... mine works well enough that it will lock the rear wheel up. My last track day saw 00.00% rear brake useage. Normal street duty sees 01.00% rear brake useage. Mainly applying the rear brake while stopped on an incline, or during a rapid shut down via MSF style brake control. I just cannot fathom the complaints about the rear brake not working correctly. Not saying yours doesn't... please define "work" or tell us WHY it doesn't work so we can help you figure it out. | ||
| Skntpig |
I would be willing to bet that anyone who thinks the rear brake doesn't work really doesn't "work" the front brake hard enough. When braking hard the back wheel has such little pressure on the ground (sometimes none) that the smallest amount of rear brake causes a slide or lockup. | ||
| Geforce |
Skntpig...my point exactly. That is why I asked for those who proclaim that their rear brake doesn't work to simply define... "work". Not to ridicule, but if there is a problem, we might be able to help them. | ||
| Stimbrell |
When I got my R the rear brake was useless, then I read the break in section of the owners' manual and followed the instructions, several light stops, then allow to cool, then several moderate to firm stops, IIRC. Brake started working properly straight away. | ||
| Pmjolly |
My rear brakes work just fine. When I am stopping hard, I am on the verge of skidding the back tire. I can lock up the rear tire anytime I want. '08 1125R with Corsa III. | ||
| Azxb9r |
Brake cleaner and a clean rag will get rid of whatever residue you have on the rotor. You can also use plain old soap and water...just make sure to get all the soap rinsed off or it will get noisy. | ||
| Stevek1125r |
Westley's Bleche white... Spray on, let it sit for a minute. then spray off... if the build up is excessive, use a small brush... Worked like a charm for me in regards to cleaning off exhaust crud... as for the rear brake... i only used it in low speed situations.. if your on the front brake hard enough, ifound the rear tire was in the air just enough to make it slide... | ||
| 1125rcya |
Ok a few of you want to know about my rear break and how it don't work. I hope this helps! I ride lots of country roads which interconnect with gravel roads. When I hit these gravel roads and push my foot down firmly on the rear break I can't get it to lock up while the rotor is hot(10 min's into the ride). While riding on gravel, my back brakes are a necessity to me. My back brakes are a warning sign of how loosely the gravel is packed and how gingerly I need to be with the front brake. Thanks guys; I have yet to mess with this rotor. Hopefully by this weekend! | ||
| Pmjolly |
I'd say something is not right. I can lock up my rear tire on concrete without using the front brake. |
