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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Blasting Away - The Thumper Quick board » Archive through March 21, 2011 » That first CRUNCH shift in the morning .... « Previous Next »

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Cgent
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 09:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK ... so I'm getting used to some of the idiosyncrasies of the BLAST! ... still, the clutch seems to be the worst feature. It would seem that the clutch wants to be either in or out with no friction zone. I realize that this is somewhat standard in the BLAST! ... but I suspect that mine might be worse.

A friend ... knowledgeable in older Japanese bikes ... suggested that maybe some of the clutch plates were frozen together (the bike had only 3,000 miles on it when I bought it this year) from lack of use. Possibly I was only getting the benefit of one or two clutch friction plates working. I have yet to check/change the clutch/transmission oil.

Can I use Mobile or Castrol V-twin 20-50 oil in both the engine and primary ??? (These are available at Auto Zone nearby.)

Is there a way to get the bike into gear without a big CRUNCH ??? So far the only way I've found is to start it in gear ... the shifts to second and third are silent and smooth. I find that I hate to ever shift into neutral for the nasty shift back into first.
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Crackhead
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the Blast will always clunk into gear (Harley heritage)
But if i blip the throttle before shifting into first it clunks less and you have to shift with purpose.

Yes you can use the Mobile V twin in the primary and engine.

(Message edited by crackhead on October 27, 2010)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You must use synthetic oil in the primary.

Yours is more likely just normal (and irritating). With practice you'll get it down smoothly.

Besides the previously mentioned:
Make sure your idle isnt too high.
Wait a minute or so (while you back out of the garage and close the door) before shifting into 1st.
Shift to 2nd, then first.
Double clutch.
Shift easy, but with purpose (but dont jam it down like its a Jap dirt bike).
Make sure all the adjustments are done right (chain, clutch and cable).
I'm sure I've left out a method or two, but with practice you'll forget the crunch was even there!

The friction zone is tight. There is a very recent 'kit' or 'fix' to widen the friction zone from the factory.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/66673.html?1280273823
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Titusand
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does any one know why Harley doesn't update their trannys so as not to crunch?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 11:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The Sportster doesnt seem to be anywhere near as bad, but its probably because it doesnt need quite the cold high idle the Blast needs.
Big Twins dont usually crunch.
The Blast seems to be the biggest offender : (
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 12:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In the CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL this was left out ...

It says to "Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until t lightly bottoms" ...

It should say: With a light pressure pushing the arm on the RAMP,outer PN 25409-94A (which is where the clutch attach'es to it) to the rear ... Holding this light pressure and turn the ADJUSTING SCREW PN 11765Y to where it tightly bottoms, doing this several times ... WHAT THIS DOES IS SEAT EVERY THING IN THE RELEASE MECHANISM SO YOU GET MAXIMUM LEVERAGE WHEN YOU PULL THE CLUTCH ... Still holding the lever to the rear lightly seat the ADJUSTING SCREW PN 1165Y, then back out 1/4 turn ...

For those who have never experance'd a wet clutch before, the BLAST Clutch (basically the same as a SPORTSTER, just less plates)
takes some getting used to ...

The TRICKS are brake it loose when COLD and FIND neutral before you completely stop ...

In BLASTing
Iam Noone'
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Ronbob43
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 11:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That friction zone fix was worth it. I no longer bark the tire on my wife's Blast when the light changes and she no longer has a problem killing it. You just ease it out and slowly roll on the gas and it works like all of the other bikes we have had. She does complain that she can't tell if she got it into first because there is no clunk to let her know anymore.
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