| Author | Message | ||
     Bluzzit34 |
So the past three times I have ridden my bike will start fine and then simply not start at all. If I come back to it a few hours later it starts no problem. No obvious connection problems, no problems when running. Any ideas? This has been happening for months sporadically, but every time recently. What should I do??? Besides take it completely apart! | ||
| Dhays1775 |
i am definitely not an expert, but it definitely sounds like some sort of electrical issue. i had an issue before where the coil tested good, but would short inside itself once voltage was supplied. another thing to check is if the fuel pump is kicking on. if you ride it hard and heat up the fuel pump, it might get a "vapor lock" kind of thing going on until it cools back down. you need to think about the easy stuff first, then go from there. sorry i couldn't help any more. keep us informed on if you find anything. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
yeah i am definitely leaning towards electric. fuel pump is definitely working. i dont think its vapor lock, it has quit on me with as little as 1/4 mile of riding. I'll try to get a professional mechanic to check it out soon though. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Not sure what you're describing. Are you saying that sometimes when you go to start the engine, it will catch and then stall out and won't restart? If so, check your plugs. They're probably fouled. Replace them. If so, take longer rides and/or keep the battery on a tender. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
Sorry, I guess I wasnt very clear. Its never like stalling, which I have experienced before. It is always like it simply is no longer sparking. It starts fine, takes off fine, but then I will be riding along and it will just cut out. Right after that happens, the fuel pump will still prime, engine will turn, and I know it's not a battery problem because the clock doesn't reset. Yesterday I rode about 200 yards after it started normal, and it cut out. Wouldn't start up again. Came back 4 hours later, and it started fine, got all the way home. Then this morning I rode about 5 miles, got there just fine. After about 2 hours I went to leave, and it wouldn't start. Sorry about the story, but its just so random and I simply can't think of what could be wrong. Thanks for your help though. | ||
| Greg_e |
Bad coil, problems with the wires going to or from the coil, bad ECM. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
When I get it home, I'll check the coil. I replaced the plug wires and plugs less than 1,000 miles ago. Should have checked the coil while I was in there. But the problem would be intermittent like that with a bad coil? Thanks. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Next time it happens, try cycling the kill switch. If it immediately re-starts, you've almost certainly got a bad Bank Angle Sensor. Cheap part and easy to replace. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
Did some more research, I think I will check out the clutch switch. Maybe it's not making good contact or something. Is there a way to check the coil without taking apart the whole airbox?) | ||
| Iamarchangel |
I'd suggest cold fouling. You'll need to check your plugs. They'll look black if I'm right. Probably will have a carbon build up on them. Double check to make sure they are the right plugs. Basically, your plugs can tell us a good chunk of the story. The lighter they are, the more it's "simply" electrical. The darker would be more air/fuel mix. | ||
| Badxb |
This same problem just happened to a mate of mine. We found that one of the main ecm looms had worn through by rubbing on the negative terminal.was only a tiny cut in the wire but enough for it to earth out.May not be your problem but hope it helps. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
Guys, thanks for all the great help. I just rode it home. Started up just fine, a good 15 mins of riding. I cleaned up the clutch switch contact first, so maybe that will help... It started up again after I shut it off right away so maybe thats a good sign. Tomorrow I will check the plugs. I ordered the plugs from ironmachine with the plug wires, so I'm sure theyre right. I'll get to the coil if I can too. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
So I checked out everything I could, took off the airbox and everything. Spark plugs too. Check out these pictures, maybe you can tell me if something looks busted. I'm thinking it has to do with the black box on the front, because it has a lot of cracks with some random wires leading into it. What does it do????? THANKS!!!! On the right side, under the cover:        The ignition coil and various from the top:      MYSTERIOUS BLACK BOX!!!! I hope I don't seem too ignorant.... Thanks though.    | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
ok so its a voltage regulator. That woulds like it could definitely be the problem, right? | ||
| Greg_e |
The vacuum port on the throttle body needs to be capped! Mine ran but wasn't running great until I capped that port. It's on the side of the TB and is seen in one of these pictures. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
cool, I will do that. Anyone else? THanks. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Those are the cleanest plugs I've ever seen. You say they'e about 1000 miles old? That is way lean. See what others say but I'd be concerned if my plugs came out that white. I'd say that rules out anything to do with the mix. Even the one that looks a bit wet is not enough to worry about. Capping that vacuum looks like a good idea. | ||
| Yamafreak |
Missing Cap = Lean = white plugs, right??? | ||
| Ourdee |
Yama', the missing cap will let in un-metered air. Un-metered air can cause a lean condition. A lean condition causes light plugs and could lead to nasty stuff. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
So the source of my problems could be because its running lean? Or is that just another bad thing, and probably unrelated to my random starting/ not starting/ cutting out issues? | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Running lean usually has a random stopping problem with associated hole in the the piston and various melted parts. I don't think there is a sensor that would shut it down based solely on lean. I can vaguely see it happening when the choke would come off (of course, we don't have a choke, I'm referring to the circuitry that simulates that). Put the cap on and go for a 15 minute ride. See what the plugs look like after. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
Scared me when I first read that, then I realized the joke. Phew. Sounds like a plan. Not looking forward to taking out the plugs again though... PIA | ||
| Brumbear |
I would start by checking my ignition switch make sure all the wires are tight and nothing is touching them | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
Just capped that hole on the side of the TB. Hooked up to ECMspy and turns out my AFV was at 89%. So I did a TPS reset, and reset AFV to 100. Hopefully that will solve the issues with it running badly. I also checked the ignition wires, as well as every single other wire I could find both under the dash and under the airbox and seat. Again, nothing. Wiggled and put a little stress on every connector and wire while it was running, with no problems. Has been starting and running fine for the past 10 or so starts/stops. Problem appears to have gone away for now. But probably will return now that I have typed this. Thanks for your help everyone. | ||
| Toona |
I've helped 2 guys with random non start problems. It's not the VR, because they didn't have a dead battery. Both were acting just like the on/off rocker switch was set to off. Clean the copper contacts inside the right switch housing/pod on the handle bars for the start button. I cleaned it with either a scotch pad/steel wool or just scraped the surface with my pocket knife. Use what you have available. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
Ok, I'll try that. But I wiggled and pulled that wire and stuff while it was running, and there was no problem. If it were that switch, wouldn't the fuel pump also not prime/run? | ||
| Toona |
The contacts are for the circuit to the starter motor only. They have nothing to do with the fuel pump and are not "in the circuit" once the engine is running. Only when the yellow "push to start" button is depressed. You will have to disassemble the switch housing to get to the "dirty" contacts. Watch for loose pieces. I don't remember anything being under tension when you tear it apart, but watch for little bits anyway. It's a five minute job, start to finish. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Electronically, this is the kind of thing you are looking for. A bit of dirt/rust/whatever sits loose in the housing, every once in a while vibration causes it to move to the contacts and complete the circuit. It fits your description and sounds easy to check. Easy enough to rule out. | ||
| Bluzzit34 |
hmmm well I cleaned up the contacts. They were pretty dirty, so hopefully that was the issue Lost a spring in the process, but actually found a replacement. I will post again if I have any issues. Thanks everyone. | ||
| Petebueller |
One of the mechanics at my dealer had similar symptoms. His was caused by a leaking o-ring in the fuel pump. Some fuel would leak behind it, and the bike wouldn't start until he waited a while. Another friend had a problem where he would have to wait 10 min after he stopped before the bike would start again. The problem was the ECM. It was fine cold. | ||
| Bumblebee |
Mine was having similar issues - The first pass included a new set of plugs and battery. That seemed to clear it up for a few months, then the issue returned, it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. I also replaced some other parts while was in there (clamps and hose) but otherwise nothing more. My ECM software found the problem, so I went for the parts and repaired it, and for the last 6 months it's been great. YMMV.  |
