| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Any washer will do, as long as you have the spacer, your ok. EZ | ||
| Tnthumper |
thanks guys I went ahead and put new lock nuts and flat lock washers on both sides so hopefully they stay tight this time.. yes I cleaned ground strap. JOhn | ||
| Robi |
Experiencing what I can best describe as a wiggle or wobble that I feel through the handle bars when I have the bike leaned over, such as on turns, and to a lesser degree when straight then swerving. I don't see anything loose. Any way that motor mount issues, or vibration could somehow be causing this symptom? | ||
| Ezblast |
Wheel bearings? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
How old are the tires? Badly worn tires and/or low tire pressure will cause that. So will mismatched tires (not usual in the case of the Blast, but its definitely possible). PS May also be a loose nut behind the handlebars.   | ||
| Robi |
I did check the pressure this AM. I was low. I experienced this yesterday on a 50 mile ride, with some new turns. I'm used to just commuting. However, I experienced it this AM (to work) and PM (coming home) after bringing the pressure up to normal, and on turns that I ride every day to work. Tires aren't that old; maybe 1000 to 1200 miles. I think I need to adjust the clutch too. It's going to rain all week, and I have my big test I need to prepare for, that I've been slacking on for way too long. I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to park it until my test is done. A. I can't bring myself to take an afternoon out of studying the huge amount of info I need to know, and B. if I were to wreck, I'm f''d because it may put me in a condition that would make it impossible to prepare for and/or take the test. If I need a serious study break then the garage is the first place I'm heading, but right I'm going to play it safe. I'll let you know what I find. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Loose steering head/neck bearings will also cause this. Are the tires showing any kind of abnormal wear (even though relatively new)? Besides the obvious way to check wheel bearings, look to see if the bearing grease is leaking. There's usually a spray pattern around the bearing if its starting to wobble. I do know that you probably wont get back to this for a few months though, so good luck. Years ago another Blaster had the same problem. It however turned out to be that he was taking turns at a very fast pace and scraping the pegs. LOL! | ||
| Robi |
I've looked for uneven wear because I thought I saw uneven wear, but upon closer inspection I concluded there was none, or I just couldn't get myself to see what I thought I saw. Peg scraping: not even close. I'm still not that courageous. | ||
| Robi |
Bikes been sitting, and I'm studying, so have not had time to really investigate, but I think I might know what was causing the wobbling. There is a big bulge the front tire. At first, I thought it was just the way it was sitting, and maybe there was a slow leak that caused the deformation. About a weak ago is when I noticed it. I pulled it out to start it and let it run. Pushing it back, the tire is sitting on another part. If was air issue, the bulge should move I guess, but it's still where it was. Called Iron Pony, they said bring it in. I might be able to get it replaced. | ||
| Britchri10 |
If you tire pressures are correct there should not be a bulge in the tire wall or on the contact part of the tire. If the tire is deformed it will cause the issues you are experiencing. If you are not sure get a tire expert/dealer/etc' to look at it. All you have between you and oblivion is about 32 Square inches of tire when you are moving. It is important to A) Check tire pressures & B) Check the tires integrity. Chris C | ||
| Dann |
On my 2001 Blast I recently replaced my cylinder head, it sheared off the threaded portion for the engine mount bracket. So I saw they updated the isolator and I installed the new kit. The shorter spacers with the new kit made the holes on the bracket and isolator very difficult to line up. I noticed this morning the mount bolt is now contacting the rocker box cover, the mount still looks like new. My question is should I leave the shorter spacers on(the bolt is being pulled at an angle) or put the longer originals back in?  For those who have mounted the kit could you please look at your bike and let me know if this is unusual? (Message edited by dann on July 20, 2010) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yeah, thats normal. That part of the mount can never change because its all solid mount. Whats above that can. However, I do remember looking at it and the measuring it with another stock one and using the regular (old) spacers because the new spacers were too short. Maybe the factory wanted to stress the mounts a little?! Also, if the mount isnt assembled correctly it will be crooked and one or both of the bolts wont line up. Its also possible the mount is installed upside down or just plain incorrectly. | ||
| Ezblast |
This comes from looking at both bikes - there should barely be clearance all around the bolt/bracket, but there should be clearance - please review the parts manual - and see if your missing something on the assembly side - anybody with that issue needs to check that. A 2010 Blast has clearance as well - so there shouldn't be contact - EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
FWIW: The engine mount that the allen bolt goes through is fixed. The distance cant be changed in relation to the rocker cover (unless you add washers to the bolt or mount-but there isnt any normal reason to do so). Its still going to be very close. Upon assembly of the rocker covers they can be moved slightly to gain clearance around the bolt head. But its nothing you pay any real attention to unless you find interference on final assembly (but yours went together). Some allen bolts will rub the covers. | ||
| Dann |
Thanks for the info guys, I'm going to put the old spacers back in and see if things line up better. The shorter spacers definitely raised the engine, the front tie bar used to be somewhat level and now has an upward tilt to it. Without changing anything else and raising the engine seems to have caused a change in the alignment in the bracket to the isolator that is stressing out the isolator enough to pull the bolt on an angle possibly(hopefully not) elongating the hole in the bracket. That's what I can see, I have to replace my rocker box gaskets so while I have it apart I'll look things over and report back. Thanks again, Dan | ||
| Ezblast |
There should be no contact - though the distance between the two could be as thin as a piece of paper - still there should be no contact. Please check and see if you are missing one of the other pieces - see the parts manual. EZ | ||
| Dann |
All was assembled correctly, now with the old longer spacers installed the bike is smoother at higher revs, but a little rougher at idle. Apparently there was very minor contact with the upper rocker box cover, just enough to put a tiny scratch in it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"insert thumbs up emoticon here"! | ||
| Ezblast |
I repeat - there should be no contact. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
There shouldnt be, but there often is  | ||
| Ezblast |
I think that has to do with old worn hardware vs all new - I always go all new due to the hell the bolts spacers and stuff go through - a few cents more, but then I don't have to worry about worn bolts and such on the install. Also guarantees a good ground. EZ | ||
| Rusty7983 |
is there an easy way to get at the top bolt? do you have to remove the "do not remove" bar? is that the trick? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Do not remove the "Do Not Remove" mount. It just takes the right combination of wrenches. There is no easy way. Sorry, but I dont remember exactly what I used (but its in my toolbox). | ||
| Rusty7983 |
i can't get enough bite from a wrench on the nut for the through bolt. it keeps slipping off. i may try extensions and swivels. i think i grabbed a wrench because there was not enough room. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I do remember lowering the engine with mount a little to get a long combination wrench in (loosen the two bolts that go through the frame). I also used approximate torque (RFT). Did you read the "tip" at the top of the page? | ||
| Robi |
Hey, finally I get to contribute. Here's what I used: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-sae-offset-bo x-wrench-set-32041.html If you look through the thread, someone else told me about them when I did my mount. | ||
| Ezblast |
Nice! EZ | ||
| Rusty7983 |
i like the offset wrench idea. that is probably what i need. thanks | ||
| Robi |
I read through part of my prior posts. I also used a crows foot when torquing, but I know how accurate I was in doing it. So far, no problems. | ||
| Rusty7983 |
i know it needs to be replaced, but today 20 miles into my ride, the muffler disinegrated. i heard a rattling. i pulled over to find my jardine broke apart at the rivets. the front pipe bracket broke too. i stuck it back on and drove 10 miles to advance auto and wired it together. it made it another 30 miles and on the way home the wires broke, and the muffler was just about off. i pulled it off and drove home with the front of the muffler and pipe. i checked and the pipe is just about broken off at the mounting spot. it is just barely hanging on. what should i do besides replace the mount and get the mig welder out? |
