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Fgoodspeed
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What are all the metal filings for? Wouldn't this indicate that something isn't getting proper lubrication?

Fred
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Ara
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello? Metal filings? Are you sure it's metal? There could be some fiber stuff from the clutch plates, but there shouldn'be any metal. Dry off the oil and run a magnet over these pieces to see if it's a ferrous metal.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 12:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Guys,
No big deal, that's why they put in a magnetic plug.
Always going to get some filings, if you have chunks, thats when you should get concerned.
Mine always has a coating of fine powder type stuff.

I've had it in every bike I've ever owned.

Brad
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Rick_a
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got one of those fancy Scotts Performance reuseable oil filters. I like it alot. It has a cleanable stainless steel 35 micron filter and a magnet to help pick up the metal bits. The housing is machined aluminum and really looks great...it's too bad I have an oil cooler and frame brace covering it up! All this for only $115...

Scotts filter
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2003 - 05:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rick_a:
The way to go is a FORD Motorcraft FL-1A in place
of the stock filter... "PLUS" a small filter the
size of the stock filter in the return line to the oil tank...
If you come to the next Lakeland Florida Club(BRAG) meeting you can see the PRODUCT IMPROVEMENTS that "i" have made...
In buelling
LaFayette
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Rick_a
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2003 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hell no man...this little sucker has your big ugly Ford filter beat by a mile, IMO...and it's the last one I'll have to buy.

Goin' to your meeting would be nice...but it'd be damn hard to sacrifice the one weekend day I get off every few months.

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Cowtown
Posted on Monday, September 08, 2003 - 02:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oil light coming on. My oil light started coming on whenever I maintained a RPM of 4,000 or more for a few minutes. It stayed on until the engine returned to idle for a few seconds. I use Mobil V-Twin, oil level is good, no leaks and no measurable puking. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Stubby
Posted on Monday, September 08, 2003 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rick A: How do you go about changing oil with that filter without it puking all over the front of your bike? (Or am I the only one who has that sort of aggravation when changing filters?)

Stubb.
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, September 08, 2003 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stubby,
Cut down a plastic milk jug to act as a funnel/trough to direct the oil away from your hard to clean areas and into a suitable receptacle.
Jeff
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Buellmeister57
Posted on Friday, September 19, 2003 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On my last oil change I used the K&N equivelent of the Ford FL1A. While washing my bike today I noticed the tie bar bolt had put a pretty healthy dent in the oil filter. It appears the engine is rocking forward. A visual inspection of the isolators revealed no tears.The bike is a 99 Cyclone with 23,000 miles. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Buelling in West Virginia
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Philip
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2003 - 02:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

buellmeister57, i use a mobil 1 ford size filter on my 99 m-2 and also get a dent in it. i use a tire iron to relieve it a little so it does'nt wear a hole in it. those motors do move around a bit don't they?
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Philip
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2003 - 05:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

buellmeister57, i was out in the garage doing some maintenance on the m-2 and noticed a dent in the oil filter that should not have been there since i thought i had made plenty of room. looked around and saw the upper isolator was torn half way around! must be letting the motor move around a bunch! i'll be trying to get a new isolator tomorrow and try to find time to put it in so i can make the thrills in the hills next weekend. check your isolator again as it was not real easy to see the tear until i put my finger on it and pulled down on it. later.
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Stubby
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2003 - 09:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Philip. The isolator is those big old round rubber gizmos down by the pilot footpegs at the rear of the engine?
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Philip
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2003 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

stubby, there is also one at top of the frame behind the neck. you can see it in front of the gas tank. the motor mount that bolts to the front head hangs on it. my rear isolators look ok.
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Buellmeister57
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2003 - 09:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Philip,
Thanks for the info, I'm going to give my top isolator a closer look. For the time being I put a stock filter back on and will do my best to keep the wheelies to a minimum. BTW, checked your profile and am waaaay jealous of the mods to your M2. Sounds like it's a lot of fun.

Buelling in West Virginia
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Philip
Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2003 - 04:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

buellmeister57 thanks for the kind words about my bike. i really have enjoyed the engine mods. just fattened up the main jet and lowered the needle to lean the low/mid range a little. i also installed the fourth hiem joint that goes from the front motor mount to a tab on the frame under the steering head. still have to repack and install the v@h can before i see if it makes a difference. trying to make thrills in the hills this weekend. later
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Innes
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 05:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just got a'99 M2 Cyclone which stripped the oil pump drive the day I bought it, I shut it down in time so no other apparent damage. any one else know of this happening? the bikes done 27000 km (that's about 17000 miles in old money) Any advice gratefully received. Ta. Innes
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, September 27, 2003 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Innes:
Yes, this does happen!!!
This is a problem sometimes with engines with the
-98 and -91A oil pumps...
This happened to a friends S3...
There have been others on this BOARD that this has happened to...
"i" pulled my cam cover at 62K to check mine per
a REAL BUELL MECHANIC and it was as good as new...
Have a oil filter in my return line to oil tank...
In BUELLing
LaFayette Jenne'
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Ara
Posted on Monday, September 29, 2003 - 11:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellistic, You run two oil filters? Can you give us an idea how you did that?
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, September 29, 2003 - 12:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ara:
Run a FORD Motorcraft FL-1A where the STOCK FILTER goes...
Added a SMALL Motorcraft filter in the return
line to the OIL TANK...
If want the inth degree info on this feel free to
call... (813)661-2664 EST...
In BUELLing
LaFayette
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, September 29, 2003 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Instead of pulling the cam cover, it is really easy to just drop the oil pump and look up in there at the drive gear with a small mirror and flashlight. You could probably drop it, inspect it, and put it back together in less then an hour. The heavy wear is pretty obvious, I even managed to photograph it and post it here somewhere.

As a result of this "15 minute check", I then decided to pull my cam cover and replace the drive gear. Really long job, but straightforward, and I found a messed up cam.
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Stubby
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 - 06:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can anybody tell me why if one fills the oil tank to the top line on the dipstick one pukes oil from the breathers, yet if it is only halfway up the dipstick it seems to stay in there longer? If it were blowby from the crankcase, why would that depend on oil levels in the tank? If it were some sort of mysterious force (like gravity) the oil tank is lower than the breathers I'm pretty sure. This is one of those buellistic mysteries I am bound to solve.

Stubb
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Mikej
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 - 09:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stubb,

Some stuff is best described as "just because it works best that way". There is probably some mathematical physics fluid dynamics thermodynamic inter-relational analysis type of equation and explanation that would explain, and probably some other variable adjustments and enjoinments that could be installed and modified in the engine to allow one to fill one's oil tank to the top mark without pukeage and spooging, but sometimes it's best to say "just because" and leave it at that.
;)
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Bomber
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 - 11:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just because never works with my daughter!

ah well
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99x1
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BMW horizontal twins have the same problem with oil - from a BMW tech website:
"Oil capacity depends on model and pan fitted. Pan changes have been made for extra air volume for reduced breather output."
My 1981 R100 BMW blows oil out the breather if I fill the sump over 1/2 full. I've also noticed some Ducatis have the whole rear underseat area as a breather box...
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Innes
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellistic,
I guess by the phone number you're in the U.S. well I live the other side of the pond. So any chance you could e-mail me some photy's of your installation. I'd be 'stremely grateful & in return will buy you a drink next time I'm out your way (probly next year cos I've got a mate that lives in Austin TX an i'm goin to visit) ta for now Innes
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Buellistic
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 - 07:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Innes:
Have a computer with no frills...
Will get friend to sent pictures...
In BUELLing
LaFayette
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Stubby
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 06:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

MIkeJ

????
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Mikej
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 08:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stubby,
From personal and observed experience from my own bikes and from reports from other owners of their bikes it is just better to leave the max oil bag level half way between the marks on the dip stick.

I don't know if the extra 1/2 mark of oil adds enough volume to pump more circulating oil into the bike (if so this would mean that at times the oil tank is empty and is sucking air), or if the extra level adds enough pressure from the volume to cause more oil to be pumped up into the rocker boxes (I highly doubt this one too). It could maybe be that the extra volume allows for more air bubbles to form in the oil tank allowing more air to be pumped through the oil/lubrication system and this may lead to more blowby or rocker spooge (doubtfull as well). I'm afraid (not really, but it is close to Holloween ) that this may require a visit from a resident AnonyTech to answer. I don't know why and I haven't studied the oil flow charts enough to even attempt to figure it out, I just know that if you fill the oil tank to the top mark you may find you have an excess of oil purging out of the rocker cover vent system.
If you figure it out then maybe you could tell me why on some days on a cross country trip the M2 would purge more oil than on other days, some days over half a quart, other days basically none, under similar conditions and daily mileage. One person indirectly claimed it was due to blowby caused by variable heat expansion of the cylinder walls and minimal deformation of the cylinderisity (I forget the ANSI term for this, haven't used it in awhile), but I have my doubts about that as well. Many doubts, no answers, oh well. Back to work I guess.
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BUELLers:

"LETS NOT MAKE A MOUNTAIN OUT OF A MOLE HILL"

The way to check the oil in the oil tank is:

"WHEN YOU GET HOME FROM A RIDE"

HERE IS HOW:
With the bike ON THE SIDE STAND and the ENGINE
RUNNING, check the OIL!!!

If you are still running the small HD oil filter:
At the next oil change, put as much oil in the
filter as you can and install. Put 2 QTS in oil
tank... Start up bike on side stand and put remainer of the 2 1/2 QTS in oil tank...
Go for a ride to get engine to operation temperature... When you return home CHECK THE OIL, on side stand with engine running...
You now have refferance level on dip stick after a fresh oil/filter change...

In BUELLing
LaFayette







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