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Rydog60236
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2010 - 08:41 pm: |
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I have an 03 Blast. I'm having a transmission leak issue from behind the front sprocket. I took it to the local Harley shop (not the stealership) in hopes it was just a seal that needed to be replaced. After he took the sprocket cover and footpeg brackets off, he said I had bigger problems. He showed me that there was some play on the sprocket if you lifted up on it. He said it was the mainshaft bearing that caused the seal to wear out, and unless he replaced the bearing too, the new seal would only last a few hundred miles. The bearing he quoted me at $1,000 - $1,200. Can anyone confirm this? Does it sound reasonable that a) its not worth replacing the seal and b) does 1,200 sound reasonable to replace the bearing?
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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2010 - 09:20 pm: |
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Yes Unless there's a way to pull that bearing out without pulling the transmission out, but I dont think thats possible. Pulling the transmission entails pulling the engine apart (splitting the cases), which means entire engine disassembly, which means removing the engine. Your Blast will be in many pieces. If you have any thoughts about building your engine for more power, now is the time. You could just replace the seal and hope for the best or wash it frequently and hope the bearing doesnt come apart. Frankly, further bad news could be the bearing is fine and you have other worn parts. How many miles on your Blast? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2010 - 09:21 pm: |
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PS Welcome to Badweb. Your problem is not common (if thats any consolation?!) |
Rydog60236
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2010 - 09:31 pm: |
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Thanks for the welcome and the input! Its got 6400 miles on it. Do you think his assessment is correct? Does the play in the sprocket indicate a bad bearing? Any other thoughts? |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2010 - 09:35 pm: |
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I would have anybody check to see what the movement is on their non leaking Blast. For the money, replace just the seal, refill with primary fluid and ride it. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2010 - 10:00 pm: |
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Concur! Mine moves "a little". I didnt put a dial indicator on it though and we dont really know how much Rydogs' moves either. Hopefully it wasnt just the sensor leaking because it was loose. Other related issues could be a worn bearing bore or main shaft, but they are things that usually happen to more well worn or abused transmissions. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2010 - 10:15 pm: |
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It a NEW SEAL will take the movement of the counter shaft sprocket gear and not leak, you WIN !!! "i" do my on work and splittinging the cases is no fun !!! (Message edited by buellistic on August 08, 2010) |
Dann
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2010 - 10:49 am: |
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I just checked my sprocket w/o the belt on and wow there is quite a bit of free play, no leak though. Just replace the seal or get a second opinion! |
Rydog60236
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2010 - 12:20 pm: |
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I appreciate everyone's input. Sounds like there may be hope for my Blast afterall. Thanks again! |
Rydog60236
| Posted on Tuesday, August 10, 2010 - 01:38 pm: |
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Anyone know how to replace the seal? Is it a matter of just getting the sprocket off or is it very involved? |
Dann
| Posted on Tuesday, August 10, 2010 - 02:13 pm: |
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Getting the sprocket off and back on again is no easy task depending on your tool supply. But I would be equally concerned getting the new seal installed w/o damaging it. Please make sure your neutral switch is not the culprit(loose), that is a much more common source of a leak in that area. It is located behind the sprocket and could very easily be mistaken for a mainshaft seal leak. |
Rydog60236
| Posted on Tuesday, August 10, 2010 - 03:04 pm: |
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Thanks for the tip Dann... Good stuff! |
Swampy
| Posted on Tuesday, August 10, 2010 - 07:48 pm: |
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Most of the seals used on the Blast you can pry out and then drive back in fairly easily |
Rydog60236
| Posted on Wednesday, August 11, 2010 - 10:56 pm: |
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I'm very much a novice so forgive my ignorance, but can somebody give me an idea of what to expect once the sprocket is off? I have the parts manual and I'm not sure which seal I'm looking for. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 12:43 am: |
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The seal is right behind the sprocket. It looks like this: http://thm-a01.yimg.com/nimage/799ad17479fb7abc or http://thm-a03.yimg.com/nimage/5a43f865593280ee or installed, kinda like this: http://thm-a04.yimg.com/nimage/538521fc0c07d76c |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 12:46 am: |
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When you have the sprocket off (or before), as previously mentioned (if you havent already done so), make sure the sensor that is just at the outside of the sprocket is tight. If it is leaking you should be able to turn it with your fingers. |
Rydog60236
| Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 09:48 am: |
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Okay... so I replaced the seal so I hope that stays. Now I have another question. It seems like the point at which the clutch engages, is when the lever is nearly all the way to the handgrip. I adjusted the cable according to the manual's direction. It was fine for about 50 miles, but now it seems like the engagement point has moved back to where it was. Almost like the cable is getting longer. Any theories? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 01:07 pm: |
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Primary clutch adjustment too tight, throw out bearing going south - replace. EZ |
Rydog60236
| Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 02:40 pm: |
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What is involved in replacing the throw out bearing? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 03:17 pm: |
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Thats the center small bearing that is attached to the adjuster screw - the clutch stays assembled, just take off retaining ring and rebuild with new parts - aka 6,2,3,26,21 are what you need and will replace - while there - two extra bolts taken off would get you to the shift pawl and then you could adjust, check the pins of the drum for equal size, new detent plate and clip, chamfer stator wire protection plate edges to better do its job, etc. EZ |
Rydog60236
| Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 04:00 pm: |
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Thanks EZ, the pictures are very helpful. Can you give me a feel for the "size" of the job. It looks easy enough in pictures, but I've learned that can be very deceiving. Can this be done by removing the inspection cover or does the whole primary cover come off? Any specialty tools, techniques, etc? Again... My appreciation to you all. (Message edited by rydog60236 on August 16, 2010) |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 06:18 pm: |
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No special tools, I did it with the primary cover off, pretty sure you will have to as well, though, a part of me says why not to just doing it from the inspection cover, but if something drops, then you have to go fishing. EZ |
Rydog60236
| Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2010 - 09:16 am: |
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Sorry to keep picking your brain, but like I said, I'm a novice. 1)In order to get the bearing out, do you need to remove the clutch pressure plate? 2)Do all of these parts just slide out, or should I expect to have to pry them off? 3)Any other adjustments/inspections to perform once the primary cover is off? |
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