Now, please listen to 1,000 versions of "a proper design should take into account all possible utilizations of a motor meant to have the piss beat out of it, including my preference for lugging the motor around at 3k."
I definitely beat on mine ... and I'm generally breaking the law whenever I am riding it ... it's actually a very bad influence riding an 1125. Let's see ... just today ... multiple double yellow passes ... speeds of 40+ MPH of speed limits. Excessive acceleration from stop lights, etc I really hate to me stuck behind anyone .... I have not, however, hit the rev limiter yet.
That dang 1st gear gets me every time. Here I am gassing into a wheelie and bam redline dive tap into second gear up she goes again. WoooHooo... Don't worry about something you can't control if she starts to die ditch the Bi**h! I have 6 years left to blow her up
If you are thinking that "V twin" means 4" stroke tractor motors and 5000rpm redlines, then low end is all you get. A specific "shape" does not have any particular preferences. Big heavy parts have low maximum speeds, so they are typically tuned to optimize that. Smaller lighter parts can have much higher operating speeds, and higher operating speeds make more power. Not much sense tuning them for low end torque.
It has very little to do with the engine shape or the number of cylinders. It has everything to do with the displacement per cylinder!
a typical HD V-Twin has a Bore stroke ratio of 1.08. The 1125 has a 4.055" bore and a 2.658" stroke, a ratio of 0.655.
The 1125 is a shorter stroke engine than an IL-4 like the 2010 R1 whose ratio is 0.669.
The classic 1969 z/28 Camaro/DZ 302 with no power below 4000rpm has a 4" bore and 3" stroke giving a ratio of .75.
The 1125 isn't a HD stroker/tractor motor.
I have been learning to keep my electrical's alive by buzzing around a bit more than I would like, it seems to help. My current challenge is to watch my speed as I do it.
I don’t know, I love to “RIDE” the bike, not sure about owning it. Isn’t it a little ridicules to own a bike that requires you to ride a certain RPM just to avoid problems. I owned like 15 different bikes, never had to deal with something like this. Going through a stator replacement this week, or next week, or whenever they get around to it. Third time it’s been in for something and I only have 3000 miles.
Oh, and I do ride it like I stole it. I’m always over 5g, which isn’t the most pleasant thing in slow traffic on hot days. Didn’t help the voltage problems.
And last, I got the special full price deal right before the rebates, so I’m really happy with my $11g Buell
Danny, you call it "bore stroke ratio", but then you list them backwards...veerybody else calculates them in the order listed. 4" bore and 3" stroke should be 1.33. And so on. That would be like saying the compression ratio is .0833:1 instead of 12:1.
> Questioning why people use the engine's low end is just silly.
No it's not. Most things mechanical like to be used roughly in the middle of their operating range. It's reasonable advice for motors, suspension, torque wrenches, and countless other mechanical things.
I'm not defending what is obviously an underspecified stator on the '09s, but it is true that riders who keep the revs up -- using roughly the middle of the motor's range -- don't have the problem.
They also don't have surging problems, charging problems, and so on.
any RPM above lugging is within the motors rev range. This isn't a 600cc I4, it was designed to have a wide range of power delivery, like a Duc or an Ape.
but it is true that riders who keep the revs up -- using roughly the middle of the motor's range -- don't have the problem.
1st, No. 2nd, You're kidding right? I'm guessing you keep the rpms around 5-6k at red lights. Hey, they should just have a new ECM flash that ups the idle to 5k, that'll solve everything
st, No. 2nd, You're kidding right? I'm guessing you keep the rpms around 5-6k at red lights. Hey, they should just have a new ECM flash that ups the idle to 5k, that'll solve everything
Why do people take reasonable advice and stretch it to the Nth degree? Whoever said 5-6K revs at a stoplight? Idling is unavoidable. keeping the motor in the sweet spot in most riding situations is very possible....and guess what....its pretty fun too.
Thanks Fresno. At least there's some sanity around here!
Tpoppa -- I don't commute on a sportbike.
Look, I have THREE... yes THREE of these bikes. I have collectively over 50,000 miles in the seat on an 1125r, and over 10,000 of that is track miles.
I *DON'T* have surging problems, stator problems, charging problems, etc., on any of my bikes. I don't use a race ecm on anything but my track bike. The two street legal bikes are BONE STOCK.
There's *got* to be something to that, no? Or, should I run out and buy a lottery ticket?
I'm gonna wager a guess I know a little about these bikes. Not a lot -- I'm no mechanic, and I'm no expert racer -- but I'm decently fast and I've probably got more miles and more hours in the seat of one of these things than anyone outside of the Buell R&D team.
I'm telling you -- if you will just roughly center the tachometer needle in the straight up/forward position of the dial, A LOT OF PROBLEMS WILL GO AWAY, and the bike will run much better, as well.
That's nice. 2 of your's are 08s those are irrelevant to a stator discussion.
People have reported stator probs (on 09s) all over the board. Froggy got 7-8k out of a stator and he hyper miles at the lowest rpm possible (correct me if I'm wrong). Some have lasted 15k in hot climates, others have failed at 2k in cooler climates. Mine failed at 3,500 & I ride it hard. I've seen no rhyme or reason to the stators dying. There was a thread/poll a couple months age looking for patterns, there weren't any.
I don't have any surging problems. I do have charging issues, but only at idle. I've yet to see a way to avoid that.
the 2009 kawi WANTS you to ride it at 8k-15k. they squish the first 4000 rpm on their tach together so that you dont waste needle real estate on worthless RPMS.
the 1125 has incredibly linear power starting at 3k rpms... but i mean it STARTS at 3k. start shifting at 8000, and your problems will go away it sounds like to me! just like everyone else here that RIDE their bikes will tell you guys...
the old XB12's and tubers(yes i had an S2 thunderbolt for a few years, also) have stump pulling torque at anything over 2k rpms.. BUT they only tach out at like 7k.
ride the bike the way it was designed to be ridden- not like your senile grandma would. the fact that your $12k bike is worth less than $6k on the market today should PISS YOU OFF. some of us owe more on their '08s than a bunch of people picked up '09s and '10s for during the fire sale. that should PISS YOU OFF... do yourself a favor and take that agression out on your 1125. ride it hard.
if you still have chicken strips on your tires, wax and polish your plastic paintjob, havent figured out the powerwheelie and have only touched the upper RPM band a couple times for just moments, you bought the wrong bike - the road kings and electra glides were on the OTHER side of the showroom floor.
the road kings and electra glides were on the OTHER side of the showroom floor.
more like all over the dealership besides the little corner that HD allowed for the Buell's to sit. The HD/Buell dealerships I was in when Buell was still in production didn't have more than a hand full of Buell's on the floor