| Author | Message | ||
     Motorbike |
I believe I have a problem already at only 2600 miles on my 08 XT. Everything has been fine until I stopped for gas today. The check engine light came on after I restarted the bike and it stayed on. After reading this forum ever since I bought the bike new in Nov. 2009, I have been reading about various problems known to these bikes. My first thought was the exhaust actuator plastic gear problem. I rode the bike home, pulled the airbox cover and performed the actuator cycle test. Just as I figured, the actuator makes noise but it does not move. The cable moves freely when operated manually. Does anyone know the actuator part number and also the cost? I know it is under warranty but my dealer is 90 miles away and it would be a hassle to have them verify the problem and then the bike will be down in their shop while they order the part and wait for it. I have a trip planned with my brothers August 21-23 and would like to use my new bike this time. Will it hurt anything to run this bike down the highway with the interactive exhaust not working? I know I read somewhere that the exhaust valve actually only opens under extreme hard acceleration and the rest of the time it is closed anyway. Also, have they made any changes to the new actuator or is my new one going to crap out in another 2600 miles? Are they still using cheap plastic internal parts? Thank you in advance to anyone who can help me with this. Also, I only have the service manual, not the electrical manual for this bike. When you guys mention to jumper some pins on the ECM connector to pull CEL codes, I assume this info is in the manual I don't have? Thanks. | ||
| Chromehead |
I also have an 08XT with about the same number of miles. Mine did the exact same thing on a trip to Memphis with the light coming on. I rode it 900 miles home with no ill effects. I then took it to the local dealer and it was verified to be the exhaust actuator. I was told it was actually a computer chip like piece that has had 2 upgrades since the 08XT model. It was ordered about 2 weeks ago, and no word yet on it being in. I am still riding it, but it makes me mad with a brand new bike (plus I have an extended 5 year warranty) that it appears parts will take weeks to get. Sorry no advice on the part numbers. Best of luck. | ||
| Tk052 |
You guys are not alone! I have an 09 XT and the exhaust actuator failed at 375 miles. | ||
| Metra6924 |
I just replaced one recently, not because it failed, but because I failed to heed instructions. DO NOT MANUALLY OPERATE THE CAM! I got a replacement from a dealer in Chicago who is not a sponsor here. Part number: S1138.1AA EXHAUST VALVE ACTUATOR KIT W/BRACKET Retail Price:$164.00 The latest version is supposed to have metal gears. I cannot confirm this as I did not open up the new one, but the old one had plastic gears. I did run the bike a few times with the actuator control cable disconnected and the wires plugged in. The bike ran a bit different, but it ran. | ||
| Rangeridn |
Picked up one used on-line for $25...cheap fix. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Wow - my '06 has 15k miles on the OEM actuator...and it still works just fine. Guess it must not be *all* Buells that have problems... You're not going to hurt anything except your grin-o-meter running without the valve working. In my experience, DO NOT WIRE IT OPEN or you'll get a HUGE flat spot at lower RPM. I had a race ECM on my bike for a while with the stock muffler (no valve control) and wired the valve open, and it was a DOG. Now that I have an Erik Buell Racing ECM with optimal programming and valve control...she's a happy camper  But if your valve is closed and you run it...it won't cause an issue. You should be able to do an actuator test. Take the airbox cover off so you can see it. Run switch off, throttle to WOT. Turn the key on but DO NOT START; having the throttle at 100% when the key turns on is the signal to cycle the actuator. At least, I'm pretty sure that's the test I run on my '06 - someone can correct me if I have it wrong, but there is a test you can do. (Message edited by ratbuell on July 21, 2010) | ||
| Pso |
Ratbuell, I wired mone open and it seems to run smoother at lower RPM. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Oh, it was smooth enough...but had a HUGE hole in the powerband at about 2800 or so. Total poop. With the valve working again, WOT runs are MUCH better, no dead spot. I've said it before - the exhaust Elves at Buell know their s**t. There's a very good reason they put that valve in there. If you're smoother with the valve open, maybe a TPS reset is in order? | ||
| Motorbike |
Ratbuell and others, thanks for your replies. I did perform the actuator test as you mentioned. The actuator just makes a clicking noise but does not move the cable at all. I know it used to work because I tried it once at about 1,000 miles after reading about the test on this forum. Metra6924, I did not manually operate the cam. I just pulled on the cable after disconnecting it from the actuator and it pulls and returns very smoothly. Rangeridn, was the used actuator you picked up the new part number S1138.1AA or the old one like mine S0138.2AAA? I guess I will call the dealer and see if they will order the part for me and then I will take it in for them to verify for warranty purposes. I really wish I could just get exchange my old actuator for the new part and do the labor myself. The dealer could still turn it in as a warranty repair and get paid labor for doing nothing and we would both be happy. Also, if I replace the part myself, how do I reset the check engine light? On some cars, I know it can be done by disconnecting the battery for a short time. Thanks. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Start the engine, let it run for 30 seconds then shut off. Repeat 50 times.  | ||
| Nevrenuf |
just got my 08xt out of th shop last weekend for that exact same thing. also got the reflash done and it makes a world of difference. | ||
| Dennis_c |
08 X 34,000 miles the exhaust actuator still works  | ||
| Rwcfrank |
I wired mine open and it ran poor at low-mid range. I have been wanting to wire it partially open but never got around to it. Has anyone tried wiring it open slightly? seems to that the bike needs some back pressure down low and likes wide open at top. I guess if you only wire it part way it will not be fully open at full throttle unless you can figure out a way to run it partiall open all the time and wide open under full throttle. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Now if you could design a pedal that mounts over the brake, you could toe up for open muffler and throttle response and when you step on the brake it closes. With a little practice you could adjust for all kinds of riding conditions. Next you'll be wanting a spark advance on the left handgrip, foot clutch, hand shift, manual oil pump for extra lube,..... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Frank - stock works, why monkey with it (other than to be able to say "I monkeyed with it")? If you want it partially open (again, dunno why you would)...adjust the cable too tight and it will pull it slightly open when the actuator thinks its "closed". | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Ratbuell, I like my exhaust stock. I sometimes wish it was louder but that thought vanishes quickly. There is no real power increase available via exhaust mods that are worth the extra noise. I was just thinking out loud with the exhaust valve... Maybe an electric cutout like on a set of V8 headers....... | ||
| Zac4mac |
Griff, that's starting to sound like the '48 Chief I used to have. I like the OEM can functioning right. The Uly is my "stealth" bike, my 1125R can be heard a mile away. Time to go to work. Zack | ||
| Motorbike |
Guys, I still need to know if there is any way to shut the check engine light off after I replace the exhaust actuator, other than taking it to my dealer who is 90 miles away? I know Griffmeister said to do 50 start-run-off cycles but that is out of the question. There must be an easier way. Oh, by the way, I went for a 436 mile ride yesterday with the interactive exhaust valve in the closed position because the actuator is shot. The bike ran fine and only seemed to lack a little on hard acceleration. I just temporarily covered the CEL with a small piece of black tape. I checked my gas mileage and it actually was about 2 mpg better but that may be due to the fact that I was not riding it quite as hard or it is getting broken in a little bit, not sure. If I weren't so fussy about keeping things in working order, I probably would not replace the actuator. My rear tire would probably last longer too! Thanks. | ||
| Tootal |
If you ride with the cover off the air box and watch a working actuator you'll notice it rarely opens. At WOT is will open for a short period right before you hit the rev limiter! Unless you're running the crap out of it the muffler valve never moves. | ||
| Froggy |
The light will go out when you fix the problem. It then becomes a historic code, which will show the light on startup, but it goes out after a few seconds, and will clear totally after 50 starts. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Tootal, maybe you should check your actuator. I can clearly hear the change in exhaust note even under moderate acceleration. Remember the actuator is proportional so you may not notice it as much visually when it's not full stroke. Besides, who's watching the road when you do this?  | ||
| Ourdee |
I jerk my actuator around manually from time to time. The light always goes out 5 seconds after returning it to stock. {shut up} | ||
| Zac4mac |
Beautiful RD I'm going out to the garage and play. Z | ||
| Ratbuell |
Griff - the actuator only moves at around 90% throttle or above. Take off your airbox lid and go for a spin. You'll see it. And it doesn't go "partway" either - it's more of a switch (open/closed) than a progressive item - no in-between, unless it's on its way from open to closed, or closed to open. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Maybe that's why I'm getting such lousy fuel mileage, the throttle's always 90% open. Just might pull the airbox cover now that everyone's making this sound like fun.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you haven't ridden without the outer airbox cover, be forewarned - IT'S LOUD. You *really* get a ton of intake honk without that surlyn on there! | ||
| Motorbike |
Thanks Froggy, that's exactly the info I was looking for. Much appreciated! Ourdee, does manually opening your muffler valve with the switch affect driveability? Can you tell any difference, besides being louder? Thanks. | ||
| Motorbike |
Guys, I had my exhaust actuator replaced under warranty because the check engine light was on and the actuator failed the cycle test and would not open the valve. I took the old actuator apart and expected to find the teeth of the plastic gears stripped but instead, found a piece on one of the gears was broken and almost looked like it started to melt. The old part was superseded to S1138.1AA which is riveted shut so I could not open it up to see if the internal parts are plastic or steel. The new part is working great, so far. Also, the check engine light went off immediately after replacing the part. Thanks for all of your help, you guys are great! Love this forum. Original  Broken Part  New  | ||
| Griffmeister |
Damn, I guess I have the old one. Seven months left on warranty, we'll see which one finishes first.  | ||
| Surfsofa |
I'm pretty sure I can tell when the valve's open. It's on hard acceleration and it's the only time my Buell sounds like I think it should. So if you get an engine warning light without the actuator doing its thing then how do you solve that for 3rd party exhaust systems? |
