| Author | Message | ||
     Ridenusa4l |
Hey guys, i was wondering whether the EBC HH or the FERODO Brake pads would be the best as far as aggressive street riding is concerned?? Thank You Jake | ||
| Puredrive |
Doesn't Ferodo offer different kind of pads? Like the platinum Organic or organic carbons. Where people make the mistake is that they go for a pad that takes too long to heat up & thus not perform adequately on the street. I'm subscribing. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
these are the ones im talin about http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9262.html Jake | ||
| Dannybuell |
Many years ago with my S1 I tried EBC pads and moved to Ferodo. They warm up fast and stop well. A necessary element in street riding. | ||
| Jdugger |
Please post a picture of your rotor -- I can make a better recommendation then. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Where people make the mistake is that they go for a pad that takes too long to heat up & thus not perform adequately on the street. Correct. The stock pads are very adequate for the street. If aftermarket pads are a necessity, I would go with the regular EBC HH pads (not the Extreme). I have the EBC Extreme on my track bike and they perform well there. I made the mistake of using the Extreme on the street and it turns out the stock pads perform better. | ||
| Jdugger |
The EBC Extreme Pro really have no place on a street bike. They require a lot of heat to be really effective, and I just can't imagine riding that hard on the street, even in the canyons. The OEM pads want a rather aggressive rider, too, but are reasonable for a canyon junkie. We have all seen the cacophony of threads asking why their front brakes are pulsing, or convinced their rotors are warped, even though they are shiny silver. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
Jdugger here you go-   Fresno- thanks for the recommendation, thats why i didnt even consider them. Thank you though. Jake | ||
| Jdugger |
Jake, For sure do not get a race or track day pad. In my opinion, you should be looking for a street pad. The regular EBC would be fine. | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
Jim Thanks for your assessment. Also what is your assessment of the rotor from what you can see? Id appreciate it. Thanks Jake | ||
| Westmoorenerd |
From what I understand, really aggressive brakers will have a nice rainbow finish on the rotors. I might be wrong... | ||
| Rob_l |
The rotor looks like it's got many hard spots. Can you feel them through the lever when braking? | ||
| Jdugger |
Not the best picture, but starts to illustrate the dramatic difference. A real racer (not my slow butt) would really color up the rotor:  | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I find the EBC HH pads disappointing. I've used them on my '03 Z1000 and my '03 GSX-R1000 and in both cases they were better than stock and I thought they were pretty good--until I rode a bike with the Vesrah SRJL-17 compound. Initial bite, even when cold, is much better than the EBCs, and stopping power and feel are excellent. Unfortunately, Vesrah does not make a pad with that compound for the 1125R. I've got the Dunlopad HH+ compound pads on my '91 CBR600F2 and they are about as close to the Vesrahs as I've found. That's what I'll be putting on my 1125R when the stock pads are gone. I believe the part number for the 1125R from DP is SDP993. Here is a thread with a lot more brake pad discussion: http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/ 527164.html?1263084144 | ||
| Drawkward |
Thanks for that pic JD. I'll try to remember to take a picture of my rotor this upcoming weekend and next during trackdays. My rotor currently looks like Ridenusa's, but I haven't been to the track in a month. What if my rotor ends up looking like yours during trackdays and like Ridenusa's during regular duty on the street? Swap pads? | ||
| Nukeblue |
that looks like a job for lyndalls! they work great on the xb's at least. i haven't heard how they are on the 1125 though | ||
| Jdugger |
Draw, Bringing your braking performance up to "track spec" is easy: 1. Swap pads when you need more braking -- you will know when it's time. The OEM pad is actually really decent, the EBC Extreme Pro somewhat better, and the "fat back" from Erik Buell Racing great but spendy. 2. Flush your brake system with Motul RBF600 fluid. Nice performance upgrade. 3. Upgrade to the new rotor mounting kit from Erik Buell Racing 4. Upgrade to a finned rotor from Erik Buell Racing. 5. Upgrade your MC to a Brembo RCS19. You will know when it's time.... the brakes just don't work like the should any more. | ||
| Drawkward |
That's all good info JD, thanks. I know that during the last 3 sessions or so I am finding that I have less feel in the brakes and they fade. I'm guessing some RBF600 and EBC Extreme Pros will be in order soon to help mitigate that problem somewhat. I'm just glad the 5mm finned and rotor kit are relatively cheap, all things considered. Now the Brembo....that's gonna have to wait, hahaha. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
How is changing brake fluid a performance upgrade? If the existing fluid isn't contaminated and doesn't boil, what is there to be gained by "upgrading" it? I've seen this mentioned before but just don't get it. If it really is a worthwhile change then I'll put it on my list. | ||
| Jdugger |
> I know that during the last 3 sessions or so > I am finding that I have less feel in the brakes and they fade. And that, Flesh Rocket, is why you upgrade the fluid. RBF600 can handle the higher temps without fade. IMHO it needs to be flushed a bit more often, but performs better. Upgrade the fluid before the pads if it's just the lever disappearing under pressure. | ||
| Drawkward |
That's EXACTLY what is happening! The lever is compressing more during the later "hotter" sessions. Looks like I'll be taking a trip to CycleGear tomorrow to get some RBF600. | ||
| Jdugger |
Just remember to stay on top of it. It likes to be changed a bit more frequently. I usually flush mine when I change pads. ... or, about every 2-3 front tires  | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Jdugger, that's kind of what I figured--the point of switching to the better fluid is to help prevent it from boiling. So if one isn't using the front brake enough to cause the fluid to boil, then there's really no benefit in changing fluid. | ||
| Puredrive |
^^ Brake Fluid absorbs water. As it ages in the brake system it will not work as well as a fresh fluid would. They make special test strips which can detect high levels of moisture present in the brake fluid.. You can give that a shot. Eye ball the color of the fluid. If its dark change it. Brake Fluid is pretty cheap, doing a brake flush is easy to do and won't break the bank. | ||
| Drawkward |
Not with that Motul RBF600, hahahah!!! Shit is expensive! | ||
| Jdugger |
There's really no other option for our bikes than something like RBF600. Regular DOT4 fades under the fingers of a good rider on the track. It's just a fact of the brake system and the amount of heat to generates. Look at it this way: it's way cheaper than what the car guys go through. I've got some pals at the track running Cup 3 cars with ceramic brakes. The fluid for those is about $100 a pint and has to be flushed every two track days along with a new set of pads!!! | ||
| _gdkp_ |
I would like to buy EBC pads, but if i order the art-no. FA454/4HH, will i get 2 pairs (4 pieces of them), normally i need 2pairs / 4 pieces right? Thanks! | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
There are four pads in the 1125's front brake caliper so if you are ordering four pads, you should be getting what you need. | ||
| _gdkp_ |
but if i buy i set which costs near 60$ i would get 2 pairs right? thats what i mean |
