| Author | Message | ||
     Nukeblue |
is there a link to the installation instructions for the cr high bar kit? i bought a bar & just ordered the cables & lines. i was thinking the whole kit prob has instructions right? | ||
| Froggy |
Whole kit does have instructions, but it is pretty straight forward. Remove old stuff, replace with new stuff. I tried getting a copy a few months ago from my dealer, but HDnet was being screwy and nobody could download it. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
The most difficult part by far is getting the throttle cables set up properly. The clutch and brake lines route the same way, so look where the current ones are so you can route them the same way. The instructions were no help to me. | ||
| Froggy |
If the throttle cables aren't 100% perfect, they will bind up on you. (Message edited by froggy on July 22, 2010) | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
for the throttle cables: see the plastic piece that attaches to the main harness? I would remove that when you swap the throttle cables, it will allow you to properly route the new throttle cables and put on the two zip ties to keep the throttle cables in place. When i first installed the highbar kit i did not remove that piece, and it led to binding on the throttle cables. When i changed out the frame, i saw why it was binding. There are two zip ties that keep the throttle cables in place, i had only put on one zip tie, because that is all i could put on without removing that plastic piece. When i swapped the frame i pulled that plastic piece and routed the cables and put on two zip ties, and it helped alot.  | ||
| Nukeblue |
nice! thank you! | ||
| Cme2c |
Once your install is complete, turn your bars full left lock and full right lock a couple times and make sure the brake light wires attached to your front master cylinder are long enough. Mine pulled out of the connector because the wires were too short. Others checked and had the same problem. Many of us had to make a short extension to the brake light wire harness. | ||
| Brumbear |
the cables are a beatch make sure you diagram them and put the new ones as close to exact as the old ones were. I am waiting for the inevitable " my cables are sticking" it drove me nuts for awhile but I figured it out. Good luck and we are here  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Routing is easy. Tape the engine end of the new cable to the grip end of the old cable. Use the old cable to pull the new cable through. After you verify that your brake switch is OK, go full lock one way, turn the grip to WOT, and make sure it releases. Repeat at the opposite steering lock position. Then, start the bike and go full lock-to-lock without touching the throttle, and make sure the full-lock positions don't make the engine rev up at all. | ||
| Nukeblue |
"and we are here" thats the best part! thanks for the advice, i'll print this baby and go to town! | ||
| Froggy |
I got a copy of the instructions that were scanned then emailed to me, here they are! http://froggypwns.com/buellpdfs/1125CR%20Handlebar s.pdf | ||
| Treefrog |
I just finished the High-bar install the other night. I had cable bind at full left lock so I did Brumbear's fix by moving both nuts to the same side on the idle cable down at the throttle bodies. That's all it needed. To me it's a totally different bike now. I can't imagine going back to the clubmans. I love this thing. Now I'm just waiting for the stator to burn up.  | ||
| Nukeblue |
just got my install done! wow what a totally different bike. took me & a friend six hours to do both our bikes. one of the major benefits i noticed was with the seat. it moved the pressure points of my boney a$$ back to the cushy part, woo hoo! i could ride this thing forever! also love the thick gel grips asb sells. nice, thick & eliminates alot of the 5,000 rpm buzz in the bars. |
