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Uly_dude
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 10:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I'm the guy(if you remember) who's clutch bearing blew out and had it replaced by EP HD. After I got it back, I heard a knocking noise inside the primary, nothing big, but a noise. The noise was driving me nuts after a hundred miles so I took it back and told them the clutch seems fine, but this noise wasn't there before. They hem'd and hau'd, checked engine oil levels, anything they could not to have to go back into the primary case. Finally they did go in. Said they didn't find anything wrong, put it back together, but MIRACULOUSLY the noise was gone! huh, I said. They wheeled it out and said, "oh by the way, you're down to one thread on your drain plug in your swing arm" I asked how would you know that if you didn't strip it out yourself? They just shrugged and said it was like that before they got it. Yet, I've never noticed a problem before when I tightened the plug very gently(knowing the stripping issue with these things). A couple days later I was looking closely at the plug and they had put a tie wrap around it and the oil outlet line from the swing arm! I took it over to St. Paul HD, their mother store, and the service manager there just shrugged it off to, said he can't do anything about it, all I can do is buy a new swing arm! Grrrrrrrrrr. What kills me is the same hack(adam) who didn't put the crankshaft nut together right, was the one who stripped the plug. I'm sure he didn't know his buell stuff. Hell they didn't even know it had to be on the side stand to check the oil level. The kid is a one man cycle wrecking machine. The manager at St. Paul HD said they won't even mess with a thread fixer kit due to liability issues.
Moral of the story is, don't take anything to Eden Prairie HD for any kind of service if you can help it. And for sure, don't let Adam near your bike.
My question is, has anyone had any success with those helix(or whatever they're called) replacement threads? Is that something a shop should probably do? Or does anyone know of a good swingarm laying around?
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Rwven
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What you want is a TimeSert

http://www.timesert.com/
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bummer. Sure sounds like you were treated poorly.

Timsert is the way to go. I helped a friend fix the same thing on an SV-650 and we used a heli coil. Mechanically it holds great, but he was then forever chasing a very slow drip that just made a mess of the garage floor if he didn't use fresh crush washers to keep it shut. Not a huge deal, but I think a Timsert will make it better then stock, and isn't that much more all things considered.
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Od_cleaver
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From TimeSert's web site:

NOTE: Minimize chips in pan
Question:
A common question about repairing drain pans on the vehicle is how do you keep chips from entering the drain pan?

Answer:
Using some general purpose grease on the drill and tap will help prevent chips from going into the drain pan. Using a low RPM or drilling by hand instead of using a drill motor would further reduce the chips into the pan. Because we are only removing the old threads with the drill, there will only be a minimal amount of material removed.

Optional tip to keep chips out of the pan would be pouring the old oil back through pan to flush any remaining chips as it drains. Then after the old oil has drained out, replace the drain plug and continue with the new oil.

Also remember the filter is there to catch any debris from normal engine wear.
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Uly_dude
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 02:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the help. That timesert looks like the way to go. I'll just have to take to plug out and run it up to the hardware store to figure out which size I need. Might be a good winter project. Then it'll be better than new. Greg
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Trevd
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would be contacting HD/Buell Customer service and telling them your story. If they care about their customers, they'll help you out.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I did the SV-650, I did three things. I would recommend two of them. ; )

Heavy grease on the drill bit, worked great.

5 quarts of the cheapest motor oil I could find (to pour in one end, and drain out the other, to flush out chips). Worked great.

Stuff a rope up into the oil cavity to be fished out after the fact to drag out chips. (NOT RECOMMENDED).

The drill left a snag up in the oil cavity, which made it just about impossible to get that rope back out. One of the biggest "oh crap" mechanical moments of my life. Turned out OK, but it almost wasn't. Ugh.
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Gamdh
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Saved this from a recent thread


quote:

After spending the morning on the web and the phone, it looks like it'll be the TimeSert "Professional drainplug thread repair kit", for aluminum pans with Buell's oem drain bolt specs of 1/2"x20 fine thread pitch. TimeSert Kit part# 0122A that we'll now have to order... This specific kit feature's a shorter than industry commonplace insert length of .400", which should suit the aprox 9 to 10mm of swingarm wall thickness the friend measured last night. Otherwise the vast majority of solid core inserts, are generally .600" in length and would have to be carefully inserted and then ground flush...




http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/578037.html


(Message edited by gamdh on July 20, 2010)
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Metaldude
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow... Thanks for the heads up about EP HD. I've had both good and bad experiences with them and yours will make me think twice before letting them near my Uly.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's why I do all my stuff at home.
SPHD was only given one chance, they blew it. EP is part of SPHD, they never even got the first chance.
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Uly_dude
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Gamdh, exactly the info I needed. Good memory! I hear St. Cloud has a good mechanic staff..........
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Fung
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thats sucks. I don't care much for St.Paul HD. I do like St.Croix hd I have had pretty good luck with them. For what those asshats charge, they better fix it rite the first time. i like to do my own stuff.
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Ejc
Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used a +1 size self tapping bolt when my drain plug stripped. After several oil changes, it is still holding up well. My concern with the timesert was having the thread sticking up above the base of the swing arm/oil pan. Thus, not allowing complete drainage of old oil. Most people do the timesert. So, I'm guessing it's a non-issue.
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Blk_uly
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 03:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a similar problem on my old kawasaki
I installed an emergency rubber drain plug from the auto parts store and it worked great I just installed a new one every time I changed the oil since they're so cheap.
50 thousand miles later, I traded that old Kaw
for the uly and never looked back.
problem solved, quick, easy and cheap!
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Lduly
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 08:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Donahue in St. Cloud is very Buell friendly. Great folks to deal with. When I had a bearing failure fixed in Alaska on my dime, Donahue reimbursed me when Buell wouldn't.
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Union_man
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I like La Crosse HD. They have been very good to me.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I still like the "Men's Crisis Center" best..
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Uly_dude
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ejc, I hear your concerns about the Timesert being too deep and not all the oil getting out. But my fear is with the thinner walled alum. swingarm, the self tapping bolt might strip out eventually to after so many oil changes. Plus I like the stock magnetic drain plug.
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Frostymug
Posted on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/inch.htm
http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/size.htm

I used p/n 1006m and washer 2210 w/o issues.

(Message edited by frostymug on July 22, 2010)
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Whisperstealth
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010 - 12:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am amazed at these stories, and am sorry you have to go through this. Hope you can find a solution that works for you.

I will be a very squeaky wheel when I have to be. I would be camping out at the dealership, making calls to HD, a be a general pain in their ass, until is was fixed right, as in new swing arm. While not doing anything illegal, you can be very persuasive.
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Dmmblaze
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry to hear about your EP HD problems Dude.

Who did you talk to at Saint Paul? Was it Tim Bonniwell? If he can't help you, write a letter to the owner, Tom Giannetti.
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Uly_dude
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I talked to Brent in the service department. I can be a squeeky wheel to, but I need something more. Their excuse of, "it was like that before we touched it" is hard to argue against other than to say, "it was not" Though I never asked them to touch the oil, and again, how do you know it's down to one thread if you didn't strip it yourself?
The way they dodged the whole "clunky noise" issue just tells me I have to have alot more ammunition.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I like Blk Uly's idea of a rubber plug.

I always just snug tighten my drain bolt so I haven't ruined mine yet.

If I used a timesert then maybe I'd measure the depth of the hole and then before installing the timesert I'd either drill a hole in the timesert or hacksaw down into the timesert where it sticks out above into the swingarm. Then it would drain out completely, problem solved. If that isn't possible then I like to hear why not.
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The belt sander is your friend!!
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996dl
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the rough initial measurements, my millwright friend took of his stripped 09 Uly's swingarm are correct: 9 to 10mm

Then the Time Sert kit #0122A solid core insert's length, of .400" should ensure a near perfect match. (10mm = .3937")

The bottom two to three threads act as the lockers, as the install tool passes through them, after the insert seats via it's countersunk top.

Go to their website and review install details, modifying the bottom threads in any way isn't a good idea and shouldn't be necessary whatsoever...

The friend's work schedule hasn't allowed him the time to install the kit yet, but I'll try to remember to get a more accurate wall thickness measurement this weekend, when I see him...

996DL
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996dl
Posted on Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Too late to remeasure the wall thickness of the Uly's swingarm. Saw the friend on this past Sunday, he'd already installed the TimeSert kit and original drainplug and was extremely satisfied with the product. As an extra precaution, he added some red Loctite to the external threads of the insert upon installation.

After the motorhead horror of a stripped drainplug, a high tech solution like this is worth the effort, as the bike is basically better than factory when you're finished.

It was interesting to see in his 09 workshop manual, that the torque specs listed for the primary drive's drain bolt, were also stupid as well... Although the low spec looked about right, either go by feel or in my opinion, absolutely nothing more than 16 ft/lbs for either application.

996DL
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Discochris
Posted on Thursday, July 29, 2010 - 01:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My only experiences with Eden Prairie are with parts, because they're close to where I work, but their parts guys seem okay. A co-worker has an 1125 and he hasn't had the best luck with their service department either.

Totally agree that Donahue is the place to go if you can take the time to go up to St. Cloud. St. Croix is good too, but about the same distance, depending on where you are in the Cities. I've heard good things about Elk River, but haven't been there, though they helped me over the phone to find a belt.
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Drunk_uncle
Posted on Friday, July 30, 2010 - 05:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I didn't know there was a drain plug stripping issue. I change my oil myself due to having a $135 Scott's Performance Oil Filter. Please educate me on this issue before I too am trying to hunt down a new swing arm.
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Rwven
Posted on Friday, July 30, 2010 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Drunk uncle,
The torque spec in the owner's manual/shop manual is much too high. 11-14 ft lbs is plenty. If you are good with tools you probably are better off doing it by "feel".
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996dl
Posted on Friday, July 30, 2010 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Remember when you're on the TimeSert webpage, to source the shorter length 1/2"-20 solid core insert kit (.400") in the Drain Plug section, the correct part# 0122A

Only the A designation added to the part# indicates it's supplied with the shorter inserts, compared to a standard 1/2-20 repair kit with .650" length inserts (XB swingarm's wall thickness is aprox .400").

996DL
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Gun_for_hire
Posted on Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 09:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My two cents:

I have a 2007 uly I bought new from dealer in 08.

They gave me a great deal so I went to them and severely overpaid for the first 3 oil changes. {$275.00}

Yikes. And my dealer is a 8hr r/t drive away since I'm in the Florida keys. So enough of that.

So yesterday I went to do my first oil change. Ordered 3qts screaming eagle synth and a buell filter from buell parts.net

This wasn't my first oil change. I have been driving for 26 years and bave owned dozens of vehicles and the first 3 oil changes on this bike were the first three I did NOT do myself. Period.

I went to the dealer cause I believed that I should treat a brand new bike to a dealer oil change only during the warranty period. I overpaid ($275.00 a pop ) cause I thought that's what you were supposed to do if you owned a Harley / buell. Know what I mean?

NOT

Well I went to pull the plug to drain oil yesterday after reading the manual. I pulled the plug from swingarm and noted that I felt funny. Kinda gritty if u will. I inspected it closely... Seemed to look a little pitted and had some silvery pasty looking stuff between threads.

I did not know there was an issue with these threads and I was not being overly sensitive. After the oil drained I cleaned the threads real good, checked o ring and went to snug up the plug. It got to snug and then kept turning. Could not believe it. Pulled plug and a load of threads came out with it.

Then I did a search on google.

Found a load of posts about people putting wrong torque on the bolt because of a misprinted spec in buell manual.

Since I have never touched mine until now, it is very obvious the dealer stripped mine on one of the oil changes they did.

After reading all I could I fixed mine by cleaning and flushing any debris out of the area around the hole, then putting in an "oversized" drainplug and a rubber sealing washer. I ran it up and down the whole several times cleaning after every run. This type plug cuts its own new threads. Last shot I put loctite on it and drove it in.

Works perfect so far. I will be watching it closely to see how vibration treats it.

Pompano Harley, a florida/ Rossmeyers outfit, was the servicing dealer. They have closed and moved to the Sunrise Florida store.

If I lived closer I would have taken it in for a warranty repair, but it's a 8 hr round trip each time I drop off or pickup. And since they are the ones that f'd it up, why would I go back and over pay again ? I think they charged me about $275.00 a pop for 1000 and 5000 mi service.

I just did it myself for $45.00.

The new drain plug and o ring? $5.95.

Do you think they would admit the wrongdoing on an oil change they did months and months ago??

I highly doubt it. I was never treated with full respect by the Harley dealer anyway. They returned a dirty bike to me twice. Oily hand prints all over. I'm done with them unless I'm forced to go back for a warrantee issue.

Anyway.... The oversized self tapping 1/2-20 Plug avail at the auto store worked for me.

If the dealer was following an incorrect spec and overtightened then that is a tragedy. They should have received bulletins and had the issue well known.

That's what you would hope. Especially when paying dealer prices so u can have " experts" servicing your bike. I'm pissed.

Be warned.

Gun for hire
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