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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through August 12, 2010 » Showing trouble codes, bike runs great???? « Previous Next »

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Ulynut
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 01:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Last three days, my check engine light has been coming on, and shutting off. I checked the codes with the jump wire, and it's flashing 21, 24, and 25.

Code 21 - active muffler control

Code 24 and 25 - front and rear ignition coil

I recently changed plug wires, and I had the muffler off so I could paint it. While I had the muffler off, I lubricated the actuater cable, and the valve itself from the top of the muffler, and it moves freely. I checked that the actuater motor works, and all seems fine there.
Suspecting a rubbed wire might be causing it to show false codes, I started checking around for bad wires, and I found a couple questionable wires, so I taped them up good and took it for a ride, but still got the light. I'm stumped.

The bike is running great. No loss of power anywhere, idles fine, runs smooth as always.

Does anyone know how to check the coil without the breakout box?

'06 Uly, bone stock

(Message edited by ulynut on July 18, 2010)
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Kalali
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 02:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a procedure in the FSM to check the coil. All you need a multifunction voltmeter.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The procedure in the service manual requires the break out box. It only mentions use of a DVOM to check the 12V going in. You should be able to check the coils resistance either at the 3 pin connector or on the side where the plug wire connects. On the 3 pin connector, the middle pin is 12v and the outside pins are front and rear coils.
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Ulynut
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 02:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Terry. I checked resistance at the 3 pin connector and got .9 ohms. Good or no good?
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Ulynut
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also got to thinking about the battery. It's the original battery. Could it be going bad on me and causing false codes?
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Terrys1980
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 02:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

.9 sounds about right and yes a bad battery can cause some strange things. What is your battery voltage with the bike off?
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Ulynut
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just took the old battery out, and it's sitting on the ground. I tested it and it has 13 volts.
I've had a BRAND NEW battery on my BENCH for about 3 months now. I guess I was waiting for this one to leave me stranded before I swapped it out.

I've got it on the charger now, and will install it when it's charged 100%.
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Ulynut
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 07:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

O.K. I did 3 things...

1. When I had the coil out, I noticed where the front plug wire connects, there is a metal pin inside there that the wire butts up to. The end of that pin had a little corrosion on it, so I scraped it off so it was shiny clean.

2. I cleaned all of the grounds under the seat shiny clean, put dielectric grease on all contact points, and tightened everything tight.

3. Installed new battery.

Took it for a quick ride around town and it seems to run a little smoother. No check engine light. Hopefully problem solved.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sweet!
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Ulynut
Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the help.
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Kalali
Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good to hear.
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