| Author | Message | ||
     Avc8130 |
Anyone successfully removed the rear header without rotating? Any tips/tricks? ac | ||
| Neufey |
yup i got mine out without rotating the engine. you'll need to cut and weld a 10mm wrench to get at a couple nuts, and take the rear O2 sensor off. I suggest taping the frame where the header will come out as not to scratch it. once you have it un bolted it just takes time and patience to get it out. took me about an hour to fabricate the wrench and remove the headers. good luck. | ||
| Blk09r |
How hard was it to get back in? | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
just rotate the engine and call it done | ||
| Neufey |
not hard at all took me another hour to bolt it all up. so let me think 2 hours to re and re or probably the day to rotate it and get it back together, maybe longer can't realy say as I have never rotated mine to date. Oh ya and it cost me a 5 dollar wrench that i hacked up to get at the top rear nuts. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
a day to rotate the engine? not even close at least not when i did it | ||
| Neufey |
as i said i havent done it only read through the procedure in the book,looked alot more involved than the way i did it. Ill have to take your word on how long it takes to do it until I need to check my valves and plugs this winter. | ||
| D_adams |
Strap the front end down, put a small lift under the engine, lift until it's unloaded. Unbolt the rear shock, continue lifting until you have room to get in with a socket on a swivel w/extension. Maybe 20 min or so to get to that point? Remove the header, install the new one. Edit: Loosen the rear axle bolt and slip the belt off prior to lowering the swingarm. Didn't really think about it until I got to talking to a nice guy out in Cali. Thanks Mr. Hall. (Message edited by d_adams on July 16, 2010) | ||
| Avc8130 |
Neufey, Do you have any pics of the modded wrench? D, That seems like a reasonable way to do it too. Thanks guys! ac | ||
| Jdugger |
The other well-accepted method to remove the rear header is to drop the swing arm. | ||
| Cravacor |
Wow, I was about to pay the body shop like a bunch of money to replace my bent rear header 'cuz I didn't want to dork with rotating the engine. Jdug and Dean make it sound easy! | ||
| D_adams |
I didn't say it was easy. It can be done without rotating the engine if you really don't want to go that route, but it's not a walk in the park unless you have the proper equipment. | ||
| Jpinkerton |
I rotated mine following the manual to a T. I did it over a couple of days, working for a little while then stopping. It does suck and even with the engine rotated, there is still barely any room to get to the rear header bolts. The harness gets stretched to the point of tearing things when you rotate the engine all the way down. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Dean I agree that you can get the stock rear header off w/out rotating engine. Can you get the EB rear header on without rotating engine (I couldn't)? There's a boss in the rear cylinder casting that is in exactly the wrong place - either that, or it's a chinese puzzle I couldn't figure out.... JM | ||
| D_adams |
Jeff, I haven't actually tried it and don't have the full race system. I may end up building the complete thing eventually, but I'm too tied up with building what I do now to mess with it until things slow down some. Got a pic of where it hits or is difficult to get past? | ||
| Stirz007 |
Dean - this is the culprit.   | ||
| D_adams |
Interesting. I'll keep that in mind if I do ever make a full system. Running the pipes a little lower would alleviate this, ie; go down instead of up? Guess I might need to get into some modeling software to see what bends would be needed and how to route it through there to make it easier. Edit; Had a thought on this just now. I wonder if the forward engine mount bolts are symetrically located and would allow pivoting at that point. Strap the front down, remove the shock bolt, then also remove the frame to engine bolts at the rear only, then lift up in the center and pivot the frame up a little more. Might need to take the rear brake loose (the bracket) and then lift up on the subframe some to lever it all up for extra clearance. Hmmmm. I need a lift and some spare time to try this out. (Message edited by d_adams on July 18, 2010) | ||
| Stirz007 |
You could rotate off the K brackets as they appear symmetric at the motor mounting bosses - but - you'd probably want to support the front of the motor somehow. I'm not confident that the K-bracket to frame connection can take a lot of weird loads and torque. I'd probably wuss out and try another approach. Also, pods look like they'll rotate into fairing and fairing stays, so you'll have to pull pods and/or fairing. I'm really just guessing so that's not much help to you. I'm sure someone on BW has either tried it or done it. |
